Is VG10 Prone to Chipping?

[MW740]

I have five knives that are VG10. An Endura, a Police, Fallkniven F1 Lam, a A1 all VG10, and a WM1. Let me start out by saying that I really like VG10 and its edge taking capabilities. I have noticed that the Spydercos are prone to chipping from moderate use. I recently got the F1 and it has a chip in it that I think was caused at the factory, because I have only cut paper with it so far, but I have done some heavy chopping with the A1 and have had no chips. ??? Have any of you noticed that this steel is more prone to chipping than rolling?

 

[zinn1348]

The Spydercos have had this problem in the past, as discussed previously.

The problem, at least through my experience, centers around the finish edge applied at the factory. It is my opinion that the edge is weakened with the application of the final edge, probably due to excess heat.

I expect that if you give them a good sharpening once or twice, the problem will disappear.

Let us know if that works.

Thomas

 

[T. Erdelyi]

I have a Beretta Avenger, Carbon Fiber VG 10 Laminate, I have the same problem with micro chips.

 

[AKA Knife Knut]

First Some Backround information:
VG-10 was originally developed by the Japanese as a steel specifically for grafting knives (cutting plant tissue without tearing it). Such knives have hard thin edges which never encounter torque or side forces. In the event these edges do chip, they are so thin not much metal needs to be removed to eliminate the chip.

What this means:
In the universal tradeoff between toughness and hardness, VG-10 tends to be closer to the hardness end of the spectrum. This is why it is a good candidate, and is often used as, the core of San Mai (a.k.a. laminated) stainless blades, with a cladding of steel that is more tough.

To put it another way:
While the edge on tougher steels would deform in some way, be it denting or turning over, VG-10 tends to chip. This may not be a such a bad thing however, as edge steel that would be weakened by deformation is instead removed by the chipping.

The "Take Home" Message:
What I am trying to say is that you need to run your edge bevels just a little thicker than you have been doing; just like you would thicken the edge bevel if you were getting edge deformation of some sort.

 

[Cliff Stamp]

MW740 :

Have any of you noticed that this steel is more prone to chipping than rolling?

Yes, as are all the stainless steels at that level of hardness, ~ 59-60 HRC.

-Cliff

 

[Blop]

Considering the edge bevels, if it is not a 20° included bevel you´ve taken, than it makes no real difference in taking a 40° or 30° bevel. At least, the greater angle, the lesser is the fun with cutting.

I tried my best on a D2 edge, which chips in the "normal" way by loosing non-embedded carbides. No way, all the same at any angle.

Luckily a 154CM, said it has HRC between 58-60 and a S30V, same, are no chipping.

Once i unluckily smacked a sharpening rod against the S30V edge and it bend. As a fool, i tried to screw with the 154CM edge and a small piece snaped. Click! Not more.

But all in all, using both correct as handleaded knifes, they don´t chip. Chopped a litle on wood, just to see, no damage.

I guess, that is, where strength comes to play a role beside hardness and toughness.