It's gotta be me....

blakem

blakem

Joined
Jul 23, 2007
Messages
1,134
Let me preface by saying I'm not great at free hand sharpening, but I can always put a working edge on a blade. That was until I met my cg ash1, I suck at sharpening this thing. I haven't even really beat on it yet and I can't get the edge to come back to save my life. It's me, it has to be! I've never had a knife this thick before, maybe that's it. Tips, tricks, and words of encouragement are all appreciated.
 
Inane comment of 2008...




YES WE CAN!




ughh, I feel dirty.
 
iamtoast said:
Inane comment of 2008...




YES WE CAN!




ughh, I feel dirty.
Click to expand...

And don't forget "Change":p


You can Change that edge to sharp...Yes you can!


INFI is easy to sharpen compared to most of the newer stainless steel's. Very easy to do on stone's, but some do have problems with a stone.

Have you thought about investing in an Edge Pro since your having problems with a flat stone? Will give you a perfect edge!

If you don't want to spend the bucks there are cheaper sharpeners. But I would suggest trying to use a cheaper knife and keep practicing untill you get the stone sharpening down. Once you do, you won't forget... kinda like when you learn to ride a bike.
 
You can always convex the edge with sandpaper/mousepad/leather and get a strop. Very very easy to sharpen a convexed edge to shaving sharp.

IMG_1960.jpg



the factory grind on the CGASh1 is a thick one, which means it will be tough. I convexed the edge on mine, and left it relatively meaty. It still shaves arm hair easily.
 
My first busse was a CGASH 1,.... used, sharpened and dull as a door knob upon arrival with enough angles on the edge to be called " Octo-edge" !

I grew up on stones...Arkansas...but now use DMT diamond bench stones and finish with a hard translucent Arkansas.

Cut one side of your ASH till you feel a burr...take it down on the other side then move to a finer grit substance of your choice.
Like Ken44 said,... try it on a cheaper knife if you need practice.....but if you have been successful before you know what you are doing.

To me INFI shapes up fast ....like 1095 or A2
 
Bigfattyt said:
You can always convex the edge with sandpaper/mousepad/leather and get a strop. Very very easy to sharpen a convexed edge to shaving sharp.
Click to expand...

i'll second that. that's how i used to sharpen before i got a belt sander.

how are you trying to sharpen it currently?
 
I started with a coarse stone from a lansky, since I didn't have a bench stone in my car. I worked a burr to 1 side then switched to the other to work off the burr. It's like. It goes straight from burr to dull. I'm going to try hitting it with a coarse then steel it and follow up with a fine. Maybe the pro edge is the ticket.
 
I have had good luck with stropping on white ceramic sticks after the edge is burr free. Reducing pressure near the last phases of sharpening has also helped.

Go For It!!
J.
 
Bigfattyt said:
You can always convex the edge with sandpaper/mousepad/leather and get a strop. Very very easy to sharpen a convexed edge to shaving sharp.
Click to expand...

+1 :thumbup: My ASH1 is convexed and is scary sharp. Convexing leaves a wider margin for error in sharpening and is extremely easy to maintain.
 
I've found INFI to be very easy to sharpen -- like peppercorn said, it's like 1095 or A2.
I just use a fine/coarse Norton India stone and keep the factory angles.

A coarse stone never really gives you a good sharp edge, it just defines the geometry. The fine stone used with pressure at first starts the sharpening. As you progress, use less pressure and increase the speed. This will give you a fine edge, not quite shaving, but more than good enough for any real chore. Then an Arkansas stone or a strop from there will polish the edge to shaving sharp.
 
blakem said:
Let me preface by saying I'm not great at free hand sharpening, but I can always put a working edge on a blade. That was until I met my cg ash1, I suck at sharpening this thing. I haven't even really beat on it yet and I can't get the edge to come back to save my life. It's me, it has to be! I've never had a knife this thick before, maybe that's it. Tips, tricks, and words of encouragement are all appreciated.
Click to expand...

Hey man, get Simon to convex it for you. A convex edge is easier to maintain because it doesn't require you to maintain the exact angle each time like a V-edge.

Here is a link to a FFBM that he convexed for another forum member. http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=637395&highlight=simon+convex
 
Two items that can really help when sharpening, by any technique, are a 10x magnifier and black Sharpie marker. Use the marker to color the entire edge. Do your first stage of sharpening. Now look closely at the edge, and see where you are really working. You are probably removing metal just behind the edge. If you are using the angle you want, keep going with the coarse stone until the black is gone right down the edge. Then color it again and switch to the finer grit. If your angle stays consistent, now you should be working on the entire edge bevel.
 
silverdragon33 said:
i'll second that. that's how i used to sharpen before i got a belt sander.

how are you trying to sharpen it currently?
Click to expand...

I have a 1x30 belt sander/disk grinder combo. I still have not been able to make my self use it on my Busse's yet. I have sharpened two knives on it. My first knife I built, and a beater from CS that I use only for throwing. I don't think I am ready to sharpen my nicer knives yet (very very easy for the entire edge, until I get to the tip, then I tend to do a bit of rounding).
 
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