It's like Christmas!!! And some ?'s

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Sep 11, 2004
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I just came back from the dealer and picked up a Spyderco Dodo, and LM Charge.

I was just bit buy the Dodo, practicing opening/closing, my pinky was just on the handle a bit and the tip, just cought my pinky, tiny hole, tiny bit of blood. Good times.

I think I did that because, the handle itself is a bit thin, and harder to hold on to than my 722. Also because you don't get as sure as a grip as you would a regular BM.


Any way ? time:

Anyone know of any good closing techniques for closing the Dodo? I can't pull the BB back like you could an Axis bar. And I have to close it like how you've seen in the videos, using my thumb nail to push back the BB. My thumbnail feels like it's going to fall off. :mad:

And LM ?

The thing sounds super gritty. Nasty sounding. I hear crunches when I close it.

Anyway, If I clean it out and oil it, will it get rid of some of the grittyness? Also the pliers are a bit hard to open/close when close to open. Will this get better after breaking in?


Thanks.
Kyle
 
I'm not to crazy about the gut hook, but uhhh...

Wanna trade!? :D

JK.

So, uhh, you had to wash it out and break it in before getting it smooth or it came like that?
 
The only efficient way I've found to close my Dodo one handed is to grip the Ball-Lock with thumb and index finger, seat the butt of the handle in my palm, pull the ball back and flip it closed always being aware to keep those fingers out of the blade's path. This requires a little practice and will get easier as you break it in.
I've found that my lock was sticky the first week or two and with manipulation it loosened up a bit and the closing got easier.

Good luck!
 
Ya, but it's more difficult than with an Axis because the doesn't protrude from the handle.

My action is super smooth and it's smooth all the way through. It slightly sticks when engaged though.

A week is a long time. :yawn: :D
 
For the LM - on the ones I've had the grittiness was usually because of crud and metal shavings getting into the pivot areas. Canned air and a good oiling usually do the trick. And, after a while, the pliers joint will wear down. I've also been told that after a decade or so, you can flip out a pair of Leatherman pliers like a butterfly knife - this may be an old guy messing with me, but it makes sense.
 
I used to beable to do open my Wave (old model) like that, half-way, anyway.

I tried oiling, a bit better. I'll work on it more tonight.
 
knife saber said:
For the LM - on the ones I've had the grittiness was usually because of crud and metal shavings getting into the pivot areas. Canned air and a good oiling usually do the trick. And, after a while, the pliers joint will wear down. I've also been told that after a decade or so, you can flip out a pair of Leatherman pliers like a butterfly knife - this may be an old guy messing with me, but it makes sense.
Our very own Mr. Gollnick flipping a LM PST (video taken from his site).
 
knife saber said:
I've also been told that after a decade or so, you can flip out a pair of Leatherman pliers like a butterfly knife ...
SOG Powerlock flips like a butterfly knife without waiting a decade for it to loosen up :)
 
Ya, but it's more difficult than with an Axis because the doesn't protrude from the handle.

Yes, that's true. I've had to accustom myself to that little glitch but it's all good now.


My action is super smooth and it's smooth all the way through. It slightly sticks when engaged though.

That is what I like about the Ball Lock. I have the feeling that this is a locking system that will be tweaked a little over time and will just get better as time goes by. It shows some promise and I'm hoping that it gets used on some larger models.
 
You will build up a tolerance to the force necessary using your thumb-nail on the Dodo. I know mine was sore for a while. I actually found that keeping your thumb-nail shorter puts less force on the tender spot. :confused: I have no idea why...

Anyway, have fun.

DD
 
knife saber said:
For the LM - on the ones I've had the grittiness was usually because of crud and metal shavings getting into the pivot areas. Canned air and a good oiling usually do the trick. And, after a while, the pliers joint will wear down. I've also been told that after a decade or so, you can flip out a pair of Leatherman pliers like a butterfly knife - this may be an old guy messing with me, but it makes sense.

As mentioned above, there may be crud and especially metal shavings in it. Toothbrush and hot water and dish soap will get most of the crud out. Compressed air for the joints and dry very well. Then oil all the pivots.
If that fails, SEND IT BACK, they will replace under warranty.
 
It's pretty good now, I can open it most of the way flipping it out, I have to hold on real tight though. :D

No more grittyness wash and lots oil did the trick.
 
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