I've got 180 all the way to 2000 grit wet/dry. Tell me how to convex!

CrimsonTideShooter

CrimsonTideShooter

Joined
Oct 23, 2010
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So I want to put a convex edge on some of my knives but I don't know how to do it. I've heard it's easy and makes a durable edge so I want to try it. Someone fill me in so I can try it this afternoon. Thanks
 
I did this work on my Gerber Big Rock knife (I wanted to start from a cheap knife).

I took a mousepad (soft surface), and placed over the sanding paper, starting from 180 grit, then 280, 400, 500, 800, 1000, 2000 and finished with 5000 for the final mirror polishing.

I just stropped the knife heavily (with much pressure and force) on the sandpaper like I was to sharpen a convex edge: the difference is that, when using 180, 280, 400 and 500 grit, I really applied a lot of pressure to remove all the metal possible and start to create the convex edge.
Then I did the same with the other grits, from 800 to 5000, but with less pressure, obviously.

The result is quite good, even if for me it was the first time... if you want I can post pics of the finished product.
 
Are there special considerations for removing the burr? Edge trailing tends to create a much larger/more stubborn burr (in my experience with belt sander sharpening). Are you removing the burr at each grit change, and how difficult is it to remove at the finishing stage?

These are the only questions I have keeping me from trying it (OK, I'm gonna get my feet wet anyway) but it does seem like it'd be a real PITA to eliminate the burr compared to edge-leading on a stone.
HH
 
HeavyHanded said:
Are there special considerations for removing the burr? Edge trailing tends to create a much larger/more stubborn burr (in my experience with belt sander sharpening). Are you removing the burr at each grit change, and how difficult is it to remove at the finishing stage?

These are the only questions I have keeping me from trying it (OK, I'm gonna get my feet wet anyway) but it does seem like it'd be a real PITA to eliminate the burr compared to edge-leading on a stone.
HH
Click to expand...

I've started convexing a few knives this way (sandpaper over my strop block). I look for the burr only at first, with the coarsest grit. When I see/feel it's been formed, I then move to the next grit. From this point on, I haven't worried at all about removing the burr until after the last (finest) grit. I just watch the scratch pattern at each step, and periodically check the edge to make sure I'm still getting progressively sharper. Each grit progression, to a significant extent, will gradually reduce the burr anyway.

After I've finished with the finest grit, whatever little bit of burr that's left I've removed with a few very light, edge-leading strokes on a ceramic stone. I then finish by stropping on leather with green compound, then on bare leather alone.
 
There are also some good YouTube vids out....search " how to convex sharpen"
 
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