I've got a question. I'm making custom wooden handles for the first time.

T

THEMAKKER13

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Mar 4, 2011
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I asked for a Fallkniven S1 blade only for Christmas, with the intentions of putting on a custom handle. The other day, my dad and I were splitting firewood, and have gotten some nice samples with great grain. However, they are not exactly the right color. So, I'm asking if I can both stain and stabilize the same piece of wood? Or is there only so much it can absorb?
 
If you are splitting dry wood, it's possible that it is already so cracked and checked it won't work.

When you get it stabalized, they can do dying for you.
Read the WSSI and the K&G websites.
 
I apologize for putting this in the wrong place. I don't think that's the case with the wood being cracked or checked. Thanks for the info.
 
Personally, rather than invest in stabilizing and dying firewood, I'd just buy a piece that was exactly what you want in the first place. The dying process is not entirely predictable, and let's face it, the way you cure firewood is not the same way you cure handle wood... so there are likely to be internal problems you won't know about until you start shaping the handle. Wrong time to notice a problem like that.
 
I will play the devils advocate here, i love using materials that I have found or have from my property. I do not sell any of these but they make great momentos. The answere to your first question is yes they can dye and stabilize at the same time. Depending on the wood you may not need to stabilize but can use a wood dye only. Prior to sending it out it does need to be dry, in the wood pile may not be enough if it was in log form, take your spits and paint the ends with any paint and let them dry for a few months. That should be the end of the cracking, cut your blocks and let them set for a while longer. If you are going to rush things, cut some blocks now and set them in a warm place and see if they crack before you strart on your handle. You can also try to dry the blocks in the oven or microwave, you can google search this, many workworkers will do this but it will increase the cracking. you need about 5" for handles, I would cut blocks at least 7" to make up for any checking on the end.
 
I have gone the firewood route and it is as Tryppyr and The Count says. That being said I'm working with a piece of oak burl right now out of the firewood pile. Downright stunning stuff but it was a piece from a tree that I KNOW had been dead for many years so drying was done. But even still I'm talking chain saw, Sawsall, 14" band saw and a lot of sanding on a 6x48 to get around voids, cracks and other issues for usable pieces. The shop is so bad now I'm thinking of using a leaf blower to clean er up. Unless the wood is for a very special project and its very special wood like a tree that great grandpa planted on the homestead, buy it. Check with Mark at Burlsource. I was just on the site yesterday and holy cow wow.
 
By the way, if anyone is curious, the reason I said firewood has problems is because I did what the OP is talking about doing... took a piece of old wood that looked good and kinda burly, cut it into blocks and had it stabilized. Almost all of what I got back is worthless. It's full of checks and voids even after stabilization, and doesn't look anything like what I expected.
 
Themakker13 - What type of wood is it? I agree with what's been said that unless the wood is something really special don't spend the money and time on an uncertain outcome.

BUT... That doesn't mean you couldn't try cutting some scales out of the wood just to see. Maybe it's all checked, cracked and worthless. Maybe it isn't. It's all a learning process and you'll have a better idea the next time, and if you tell us what you found, then we'll ALL learned from you.

- Paul Meske
 
I have two types. One is cherry, which I wouldn't dye because I like the color. I'm not exactly sure what the other logs are. Either oak or hickory. It's pretty white with some pink stripes in it. I don't fancy the color of it, but the burl grain is fantastic.
 
I've made handles from cherry and oak but not hickory. I believe any of the three woods you listed would make a good general purpose handle unstabilized, though the oak, while hard and tough, has rather large surface pores. If you want to not ever worry water effecting the handle then the wood should be stabilized.

- Paul Meske
 
I think hickory has some cross grain to it. It should make a decent handle. Buy some stain and try it to see how it looks. I think oak should be stabilized first so i agree with the advice above. Find out what the wood is and take it from there.
 
If I had a better sense of what color/pattern you want for the knife I'd send you a piece of stabilized wood to use. I just can't picture what you're trying to get.
 
I agree if ya could post some pics of your firewood that might help.
 
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