Ivory suggestions..

R

razorhunter

Joined
Jan 27, 2002
Messages
470
Guys,
I am about to do a knife up in some type of white ivory scales. I have never used any type of ivory, or white ivory micarta either.
I was thinking of using ivory paper micarta, but I've read and heard much about it being a pain to finish. I have also read "Westinghouse" paper ivory micarta is the best.
I don't have years of experience under my belt, so IF real ivory would be easier to finish, then I will go that route. Mainly looking for something fairly easy to finish. RIGHT NOW, I don't have a buffer, and would prefer to do it all on the grinder, and hand sanding. Again, if a buffer is necessary, I will buy a nice Baldor if need be. Just never needed a buffer to date, so don't own one yet.
I am going for a nice white look on the scales of this knife here fellas. Not looking for really yellowish dirty scales, but a nice white look. Doesn't have to be REALLY bright white, but like I said, I don't want yellowish.
Any suggestions?

P.S. The scales on this knife will be approximately 1" x 4"-5" long at the most.
 
I'm just a hobbist at the craft.
Materials
White ivory $$$$$$$
White Micarta $$
I would only caution you about white paper micarta. If you work it to hard and it heats up it may yellow or brown. Friction=Heat.
You probably will need a buffer for etheir material. Take a look at Toolcrib.com, awhile back they offered first time buyers free shipping and a $75.00 discount with the first calalog purchase.

Jeff
 
Either of these materials will yellow over time. Of the two you're more likely to get a nice even white color with Micarta. What makes it hard to finish is dragging metal from pins and bolsters onto the surface of the handle material when fine sanding and polishing. I've gotten around that a bit by masking off the metal parts and carefully buffing next to the taped areas. Good luck!
 
Thanks fellas. I don't mind really if it yellows a little over time I guess. Maybe I'll go with the real stuff.
I could really use some advice on FINISHING Ivory and Ivory Micarta..

After I get the scales cut out, and final shaped, what should I do?
I have heard to finish to 400 grit, so after final shaping, should I just put a 320 grit belt on, and then go to a 400 on the platen of the grinder?
This is where I get lost with finishing bolsters and scales...
Usually, I just cut a scale out on the bandsaw, and do a quick clean up of the scale's shape on the grinder (for flat scales).
I have been using G10 and canvas micarta, which require a little bead blasting, and that is it.
I do not know what grit to start with for final finishing. I would only assume to use high/fine grits, and light pressure, on the platen, in order to prevent from changing the scale's shape too much.
Maybe I should just start buffing the ivory right away? I'm going to do some more searches to see what I can come up with.
MOST threads I have read, mainly tell what grits to FINISH with, but don't get into the beginning steps of finishing ivory. I'm sure there are some here.
Maybe I should get a buffer. Wasn't planning on that expense just yet, but might have too...
 
One thing about ivory - it really has nasty dust.
I was coughing up crap for a couple of months after making a bandsaw cut of 4 inches.
Respirator time...
It's also heat sensitive, and if you can get it stabilized, that will help in the finishing department.
 
Hmmm,
Well, I just want to buy something that will be fairly easy to finish and look good and white like Ivory.
If I can find stabilized Ivory, that will be fine. I did not know for sure if it had to be stabilized, but I do not want problems out of it later on.
Dang, the stabilizing thing now throws a wrench in my system for sure! LOL!
I will look for it stablized. There goes more $$ I'm sure...
 
The stabilizing is the cheapest part the of ivory buying.
It will be much easier to finish and the color will remain close to the same as untreated.
 
http://www.ivorybuyer.com/museum1.htm

Here is a great place to buy the real thing. I wouldnt bother with any thing fake. Elephant ivory is bright white and easy to finish, simply grind to shape with new belts and sand to 2000 grit and polish by hand if you dont want to buy a buffer.
 
I dont know if you have considered this, but I wanted a knife with a white handle, and I ended up getting some corian scraps from a local counter top installer. It was easy to work with and easy to polish. I bought enough for a lot of knives for 20 bucks. Just a thought. I have a couple on the gallery part of this site with the corian if you want to take a look.
here it is

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=333437
 
Thanks fellas,
I will be using real ivory. Just wanted to confirm:
What grit to END with on the grinder? What grits to use, in what steps? (of course, I know to go UP in grits! LOL)
In other words, how does THIS sound?

-cut out scale w/ bandsaw
-shape on grinder with 120 or 220 grit? (depends on scale material and how easily it cuts) OF course, I KNOW you don't use 50 grit for example.

-After final shaping, jump to 320 grit, then 400 grit, then 600 grit, then ???grit, then ???

Also, I may go ahead and buy a buffer now, and try finishing on the grinder to 400 grit, and then buffing...

We'll see. Thanks to ALL.
 
Paul, Thanks for the email I forgot to say to go ahead and sand all the way up the grit sizes to 1200 and buff very lightly with white rouge. Buffing will only take about 10 seconds if you sanded it properly. Over buffing will cause the ivory to wash out around the pins, rivets or bolsters. It also helps to use a stiff backing under the sand paper to prevent this.
 
One other thing you can try is the alternate ivories on the market now.Some are really good looking.They work similar to Ivory.They are very affordable.
 
Do just like Bruce said. My favorite is whales teeth. I keep one of my buffers just for ivory or white handle materail. Good luck. :D
 
razorhunter, buffing shouldn't be a major expense. Any old motor with an adapter will work fine. I would suggest that if you are using a high speed motor (3600) keep the buffers under 4" or so. There have been many cautions on this list about the buffer being the most dangerous machine in your shop. Take heed! It has taken a knife out of my hands and stuck it in the wall. It could as well been me.
Lynn
 
Mitch, Just email him for a quote. He is great to work with. He does have another website with more info and working tips but I dont have it.
 
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