- Joined
- Mar 6, 2006
- Messages
- 186
Here is more of what I've been working on.
Kinda been playing around with doing some japanese styled kitchen knives.
Links go to my site where there are additional pictures.
http://www.erwinknives.com/galleryhtmls/kitchen/nakkiri01.html
Blade : 1095 Core between Mild Steel skins - 5 1/8"
Spine : 3/16" tapering to 2/16"
Handle : Round Curly Walnut with a Copper Ferrule - 4 1/4"
Overall : 9 3/8"
A kuro uchi nakkiri I'd done. It's a san mai, I'm planning to do more in this style but the other shapes as well.
got the grind a little higher than i'd planned since the blade is still a tad thicker than I'd wanted.
Fairly happy with it, and have used it a lil, it cuts quite nicely.
handle has a little curl to it, and I'm thinking of giving it a few coats of tru oil, it's been soaked in some danish oil.
The idea behind these is to have some that are a bit lower priced, and meant as users.
They're also fun to make, so I'll be doing more once my forge is back up and running.
Also have learnt a fair bit on burning the tang in, that on the last one I got a real nice fit.
http://www.erwinknives.com/galleryhtmls/kitchen/w2santoku01.html
Blade : W-2 - 7 3/4" Long, 1 1/2" Wide
Spine : 1/8" tapering the last third to a point
Handle : Round Curly Walnut with a Copper Ferrule - 4 1/4"
Overall : 12"
Here's a W-2 Santoku. I'd forged it a while back and it's been sitting around on the bench waiting for me to get to it.
Just decided to put a handle on it like these i've been doing recently.
Satin polished, I'd etched it to see if it had a hamon, but it doesn't, and after etching i remembered I'd done pretty much a full quench on it.
Reasoning was that you'd not be able to eventually sharpen through the hamon.
I am thinking I may do some with a hamon though.
I think the reason I've been doing some san mai was to have blades where it has a hamon-like effect but you'd never be able to sharpen through it.
http://www.erwinknives.com/galleryhtmls/kitchen/w2wroughtsan01.html
Blade : W-2 Core with Wrought Iron Sides - 7 3/4" Long, 1 1/2" at it's widest.
Spine : 1/8" tapering the last third to a point
Handle : Round Curly Walnut with a Copper Ferrule - 4 1/2"
Overall : 12 1/4"
At Bowie's Hammer-in, guess it was year before this last? Bruce Norris was there and before he'd left, he'd passed off a bar of wrought iron to my dad.
Well that bar ended up getting drawn out and layered up with some W-2. Forged out 4 blades.
One is still a tad on the thick side, so I'm gonna draw it out some more.
The rest were forged into these.
http://www.erwinknives.com/galleryhtmls/kitchen/w2wroughtsan02.html
Blade : W-2 Core with Wrought Iron Sides - 6 1/8" Long, 1 5/16" Wide.
Spine : 5/32" tapering the last fourth to a point
Handle : Round Curly Maple Stabilized by WoodLab with a Copper Ferrule - 4 5/8"
Overall : 10 3/4"
This one was also an experiment to see if the tang can be burnt into a stabilized block.
It can, it just takes longer to do. I'll have to play with it some more as stabilizing would make a more durable knife in a kitchen environment.
http://www.erwinknives.com/galleryhtmls/kitchen/w2wroughtsan03.html
Blade : W-2 Core with Wrought Iron Sides - 7 3/4" Long, 1 1/2" Wide.
Spine : 5/32" tapering the last fourth to a point
Handle : Round Curly Walnut with a Copper Ferrule - 4 1/2"
Overall : 12 1/4"
Think this one was one of my favorite due to shaping and the size.
Been thinking about getting some different woods and doing some sets that'd be sold as a set.
Wanting to have some variety, and I've got some other metals on order for ferrules.
I'd ordered wrong size and getting some more, but the first size will work for some smaller blades.
Planning to have copper, bronze, and stainless and pairing them up with woods depending on color combo.
Also gonna try some in buffalo horn.
I'm looking for feedback on them, so comments and thoughts are appreciated, as well as questions.
Kinda been playing around with doing some japanese styled kitchen knives.
Links go to my site where there are additional pictures.
http://www.erwinknives.com/galleryhtmls/kitchen/nakkiri01.html
Blade : 1095 Core between Mild Steel skins - 5 1/8"
Spine : 3/16" tapering to 2/16"
Handle : Round Curly Walnut with a Copper Ferrule - 4 1/4"
Overall : 9 3/8"
A kuro uchi nakkiri I'd done. It's a san mai, I'm planning to do more in this style but the other shapes as well.
got the grind a little higher than i'd planned since the blade is still a tad thicker than I'd wanted.
Fairly happy with it, and have used it a lil, it cuts quite nicely.
handle has a little curl to it, and I'm thinking of giving it a few coats of tru oil, it's been soaked in some danish oil.
The idea behind these is to have some that are a bit lower priced, and meant as users.
They're also fun to make, so I'll be doing more once my forge is back up and running.
Also have learnt a fair bit on burning the tang in, that on the last one I got a real nice fit.
http://www.erwinknives.com/galleryhtmls/kitchen/w2santoku01.html
Blade : W-2 - 7 3/4" Long, 1 1/2" Wide
Spine : 1/8" tapering the last third to a point
Handle : Round Curly Walnut with a Copper Ferrule - 4 1/4"
Overall : 12"
Here's a W-2 Santoku. I'd forged it a while back and it's been sitting around on the bench waiting for me to get to it.
Just decided to put a handle on it like these i've been doing recently.
Satin polished, I'd etched it to see if it had a hamon, but it doesn't, and after etching i remembered I'd done pretty much a full quench on it.
Reasoning was that you'd not be able to eventually sharpen through the hamon.
I am thinking I may do some with a hamon though.
I think the reason I've been doing some san mai was to have blades where it has a hamon-like effect but you'd never be able to sharpen through it.
http://www.erwinknives.com/galleryhtmls/kitchen/w2wroughtsan01.html
Blade : W-2 Core with Wrought Iron Sides - 7 3/4" Long, 1 1/2" at it's widest.
Spine : 1/8" tapering the last third to a point
Handle : Round Curly Walnut with a Copper Ferrule - 4 1/2"
Overall : 12 1/4"
At Bowie's Hammer-in, guess it was year before this last? Bruce Norris was there and before he'd left, he'd passed off a bar of wrought iron to my dad.
Well that bar ended up getting drawn out and layered up with some W-2. Forged out 4 blades.
One is still a tad on the thick side, so I'm gonna draw it out some more.
The rest were forged into these.
http://www.erwinknives.com/galleryhtmls/kitchen/w2wroughtsan02.html
Blade : W-2 Core with Wrought Iron Sides - 6 1/8" Long, 1 5/16" Wide.
Spine : 5/32" tapering the last fourth to a point
Handle : Round Curly Maple Stabilized by WoodLab with a Copper Ferrule - 4 5/8"
Overall : 10 3/4"
This one was also an experiment to see if the tang can be burnt into a stabilized block.
It can, it just takes longer to do. I'll have to play with it some more as stabilizing would make a more durable knife in a kitchen environment.
http://www.erwinknives.com/galleryhtmls/kitchen/w2wroughtsan03.html
Blade : W-2 Core with Wrought Iron Sides - 7 3/4" Long, 1 1/2" Wide.
Spine : 5/32" tapering the last fourth to a point
Handle : Round Curly Walnut with a Copper Ferrule - 4 1/2"
Overall : 12 1/4"
Think this one was one of my favorite due to shaping and the size.
Been thinking about getting some different woods and doing some sets that'd be sold as a set.
Wanting to have some variety, and I've got some other metals on order for ferrules.
I'd ordered wrong size and getting some more, but the first size will work for some smaller blades.
Planning to have copper, bronze, and stainless and pairing them up with woods depending on color combo.
Also gonna try some in buffalo horn.
I'm looking for feedback on them, so comments and thoughts are appreciated, as well as questions.
