JB-Welding bolsters

Wulf

Wulf

Joined
May 10, 2000
Messages
3,351
Friends,

I'm new to this forum so forgive me if this question has already been asked, but...

I've heard of some guys using JB Weld for bolsters and guards, and I've thought about trying it myself. Personally, I'm not a big fan of soldering because I figure that once a blade is treated and tempered it should not be further subjected to extreme temperatures. Does anyone here have experience with, or an opinion on JB Weld that they'd care to share with a young maker?

Thanks,
Derrick
 
Derrick-

One young maker to another:

Actually, the question has been asked, and you can find the replies by clicking on the search link, then searching the "shop talk archive."

But since we're here right now...

With bolsters you want a seamless fit/appearance. Putting anything in between the bolster and the blade interferes with that fit.

Lately I have been bringing up questions on the different methods of pinning the bolsters on.

This is something I've done for quite awhile, but there are always other ways of doing things that are worth exploring.

My technique so far involved something like the following for a 3/32" pin: Drill the holes with a 3/32 drill, ream the hole with a #41 bit, lightly countersink each hole with a 30 degree cut dremel bit in a pin vise.

Then cut the pins and round the edges. I cut the pins to be about 50 thousandths longer than the width of said knife handle.

Then with a polished hammer, I peen the pins down.

I've found lately that many makers exclude some of these steps, or do things quite differently and still get great results...so maybe I'm going overboard.

But it works.

Best of luck to you.
Nick

 
Maybe I'll just go back to using elmer's glue...
wink.gif


Thanks Nick

-D
 
Nick, have you ever tryied tapering your holes versus using the countersink? That way you can get a tighter rivet and dont have to worry about grinding the head off the thing when you are doing any contouring. I used to countersink all my pins about like you explained, then I tried the tappered hole treatment... I will never go back!


Alan...



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If a Man talks in the forest, and there is no Woman around to hear him, is he still wrong?
 
I agree with using heat on the blade for soldering after getting a professional heat-treating done. I almost always mill the guard slot to a very close fit to the blade and drill a 1/8" hole in the guard and blade for a pin. I use JB Weld to seal water out permanantly. On Bolsters I drill two 3/16" holes and leaving the pins a little long, hammer them to spread the pin. Then contour the bolsters. There should be no gaps. If there are gaps use a hydraulic press to close them. No glue is needed for bolsters. Works for Me. Bruce
 
Since we're on the topic, when do you do your drilling? If you fit the guard and drill the holes before heat treat, there will be some loss of fit when polishing after heat treat. Would good carbide bits drill the holes after heat treat? How bout diamond burrs?

I'd also like some enlightenment on the tapered hole idea.

Thanks



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Rob Ridley
Ranger Original Handcrafted Knives
 
All the drilling is done before heat-treating I havent tried carbide bits. I always thought they were used if you forget to drill before heat-treat. I flat sand and polish before fitting the guard and dilling. Bruce
 
Alan-

I think I'm the third person here to jump on the bandwagon of this question. To taper the holes, do you simply use a tapered reamer...ream left bolster, then right (not necessarily in this order
biggrin.gif
)

Thanks
Nick
 
Actually for the tapered holes I usually use a triangular jewlers file, just insert it carefully and turn with a tap wrench...Actually thats about the only thing I use a tap wrench for anyways...
smile.gif


I got a nicholson file that was in the mid range of size, probably about 3 inches of file, and just smoothed the teeth off of it with a fine belt and have been using that to taper holes for 4 years with no problems...

I suppose a tapered reamer would work, but if you happen to use a 3/32 or smaller pin it is very hard to find a reamer with a descent amount of taper to it in that size range, so I use the hand jig...

It works for me so it must be fool proof.
smile.gif


Alan...



------------------
If a Man talks in the forest, and there is no Woman around to hear him, is he still wrong?
 
I use tapered pin reamers in 3/32" and 1/8". I also coat the pins with a little Loctite "retaining compound" (LocTite 850 maybe...the exact number escapes me at the moment). Seems to hold plenty tight even though the taper is minimal. This system almost holds too well as I've needed to remove a bolster on a couple of occasions and ended up almost ruining the blades.

Take care,

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Cecil Self
SELF Knives
Arrow-Dynamics Cutting Tools
www.arrow-dynamics.com
 
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