Jerry Fisk's recommended sharpening stone....on the 'net!

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Oct 4, 1998
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Guys,
As some of you know, my Dad[who works for CAMILLUS also] and I take a few friends every year out to our farm and hunting camp after the BLADESHOW for a little post show "decompression" and general knife-fun. This past year Jerry Fisk, Mastersmith, was with us, and we did quite a bit of cutting with his custom knives and the BK&T's. You might have seen some of the pic's in Dexter's article for BLADE MAG.

Well, when we went to re-sharpen one of the BK&T's, Jerry asked for my "India Stone"....I told him I had diamond stones, arkansas stones, and ceramic stones, but not any india stones. Well, this didn't sit to well with Jerry. He told me that NOTHING worked like a NORTON FINE INDIA STONE on carbon steel. He told me, in advance, that he didn't think that he could get the kind of edge he was looking for on the BK&T, or his custom bowie, with any of the sharpening tools I had.

He was right. After his bowie finally started "dragging the edge"[which took awhile, but hey, we cut hundreds of feet of hemp rope], we were never able to get it to perform as well again, by sharpening with my sharpening stones. Jerry told me that I REALLY NEEDED to get a NORTON FINE INDIA stone. When Jerry talks about knives, I listen.

Problem was, I couldn't find one!

Last fall, Jerry came back to our farm to hunt during blackpowder season. Steven Dick, Editor of TACTICAL KNIVES, came also. Jerry had his Norton stone, and he was showing me how well it work. Dam, that this would put an edge on carbon steel like nothing I have ever used! IT works on stainless, but there is something about the "toothy edge" that it puts on carbon that cuts like lighting. Steven Dick said that Norton stones were his favorite also. At this point, was feeling a little left out!

Well, at christmas, I get a box from Steven....a Norton benchstone for XMAS! This thing ROCKS! Best present I got during this past holiday season.

I have been looking for a source for awhile, to send friends to ge htese thing, and today, I stumbled on to them. My friend Howard Korn @ knifecenter of the internet carries them!

http://www.knifecenter.com/knifecenter/sharpen/indiasto.html

These stones can be hard to find guys,....if you USE carbon steel knives, I HIGHLY recommend getting one.

So does Steven Dick....and some guy from Arkansas named Jerry:rolleyes:
 
Originally posted by Will Fennell
I HIGHLY recommend getting one.

So does Steven Dick....and some guy from Arkansas named Jerry:rolleyes:

As does Wayne Goddard, Ed Fowler and Bernard Levine, just to name a few. ;)
 
I'm no custom maker or anything, but I grew up with Nortons and highly recommend them also. I have a Norton Fine India stone from the 60's that my dad used for everything. Hell, I didn't know there was anything else until high school. They are the best, but I do like my diamond for these new super steels.

Will,

Did Jerry use any oil or water on the stone when he used it?
 
Though I have the gamut of diamond and ceramic benchstones, I've come to love my Norton Fine India stone best. I bought mine for a great price from an online shop that specializes in cutting tools for the reeds used in woodwind instruments.

I'm considering getting a medium crystolon stone as Wayne Goddard endorses for the rough work, but am not sure if it's necessary considering I already have diamond benchstones in coarse and x-coarse grits.

The Norton Fine India was one of the best things I learned about from those most able gentlemen named above.
 
Steeldriver,
Jerry prefers WD-40. He is having computer problems, but I told him about this thread, and he said as soon as he get back online, he'll stop by and commnet on the Norton Stones!
 
Seeing as I now have 7 D2 blades plus one more coming in the future, how does Norton stones work for D2? My other blades are carbon V, AUS8, and some unknown stainless steel crap. I'm sure that this type of stone will work on my OVB if/when it comes.;)
So, how about some feedback from those with D2 blades... is the Norton still the best?
Thanking you in advance, Mongo
 
Hi Will,

This is interesting! Not to pick nits (of course anyone who says that is about to :) ) but isn't this only half of the story?

What about the technique? Is it a straight sweep across the entire stone, a figure-8 or circular stroke up and down the stone? Or does it matter? Does Mr. Fisk feel that you need to do something to insure even wear on both sides of the stone? I've always read that it matters.

Still, it's always good to know what the Master Smiths and others truly "in the know" use. Thanks!

Mike
 
I have a "the Oregon Stone" twin 8" bench stone with fine (220 grit) and extra-fine (320 grit), both are aluminum oxide like the Nortons. Oregon has a super fine grit in novaculite which is the same as a hard Arkansas natural stone. My super fine is a black Arkansas stone from knifeart.com. And I love my battery of Spyderco ceramic bench stones in 3 grits.

Bottom line.... aren't the Oregon aluminum oxide hones just the same as those from Norton????
 
Dang it Bald1, When a National Living Treasure tells you to get a Norton, then by golly you get a NORTON!! ;) ;)

But seriously, I am also curious as to whether or not the Oregon is a comparable product. Always nice to have options, especially if the Norton is as hard to find as it appears.
 
Velitrius,

Unfortunately if you do a web search, those Oregon stones aren't much easier to find. I don't even remember where and when I got mine other than it's been with me for some time.

Over the years I think I've had everything from a sharpening steel to an Edge-Pro Apex system. My favorites still are the Spyderco ceramic bench stones and the Oregon twin grit bench. A Spydie double stuff and a Cabela's wood block diamond hone (looks like a DMT) go into my field kit. And both versions of the venerable Spydie Triangle sharpener see regular duty. The old one sits at the ready in my kitchen. The newer one sits with the bench stones.

Will talked me into getting the diamond speed slides for Triangles after telling me about some interesting experiences he's had in his travels...e.g. "Oh you sell knives does ya? Lookie here" ...shows Will an abused old folder that is so dull it couldn't make a cut if someone's life depended on it... the edge is flat and maybe 1/16" wide! "Can ya fix the blade up on this un?" Well after enough of these scenarios, only a Spydie speed slide worked to prep the blade fast enough so this type of thing didn't become a second career for Will! Can you imagine Will carting around one of those old peddle-belt drive wheel sharpeners in the back of a 1940s pickup? hehehehehehe
 
Bald1,

Took yer advice and did some looking. Take a look here for an Oregon stone set and here at the similar Norton item. Do you think this thing would be worth looking at? Not much more info on grit or composition, but maybe I'll give them a call.

Not too bad on the price, if it pans out. BTW, I've met Will. I can definitely imagine him in a 40's pickup. :D
 
Hey guys. Finally got up and running on the machine again.
Norton stones. I use WD40 on mine to keep it cleaned off from build up. I have been using the same stone for 15 years now. No wear. I slice into the stone and use the entire length of the stone reguardless of knife size.
I have a 8" stone and slice the entire length using a folder or a sword. First pass of each side is hard, next pass per side is medium and the last pass per side is very light, just the weight of the knife only. Strop it on a piece of old leather belt or leather strap then strop it on my hand for the last act of standing the burr up straight. Then sally forth and cut.
On my video I show using the same blade and use different stones to show the differences in the cuts they will do.
Let me know if there is anything else I can help with on this subject I will keep and eye on the thread.
fisk
 
Jerry,

Thanks for stopping by and helping us out. Sharpening a knife is an art to me and one that I'm not very good at. :)

Is it just a light coat of WD40 before you work the blade? I always wondered if I use too much oil on my stones. Oh, just thought of another one. Do you add the oil first then wipe it off to get rid of old steel deposits first then reapply a light coat before sharpening or just put the oil on the go at it? Ack. Sorry for the barrage of question, Jerry. Just part of my eternal quest to learn how to sharpen a knife properly and get a very good edge on it. Man's got to know how to sharpen a knife!
 
Mississippi
I just hit it with about two regular squirts which would be considered light I guess. Leave the oil on the stone then sharpen. I use my finger on top of the blade to help hold the angle which may varies with yours [disclaimer sort of]. All the oil does it help keep the metal particals washed off. About once a month I spray it down good and just rub it about 5-6 passes with a old diaper just to make sure it stays clean. You cannot use to much oil on the stones.
Good luck with it.
jf
 
Jerry Fisk wrote, "About once a month I spray it down good and just rub it about 5-6 passes with a old diaper just to make sure it stays clean."

An "old diaper", not to be confused with an old diaper in my house which would also be an old used diaper... :D
 
If forgot. Clean diaper first. That was funny nobody.
jf
 
Dang shure appreciate the links, my friend. I was merely comparison shopping for a similar product to the one at the beginning of this thread, but what the hey. Under 20 bux for a set of 5 Oregon stones is just too good to pass up. Gonna have to get to making the box for the set.

Thanx again for those links. Gonna have to give the Sharpmaker a rest for awhile looks like.

Jerry, if you need more old diapers, just give me a holler. Our second young'un is due this june, and I'm gonna need an outlet for a heap of 'em. ;)
 
No No No Velitrius, Cloth diapers. Don't send old dirty disposable diapers. I tried those but keep getting streaks on my blades.
jf
 
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