Jeweling, engine turning...how to do it?

rfrink

rfrink

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Just to clarify in case I'm calling it the wrong thing. This technique leaves metal surfaces with an overlapping series of swirled patterns, kind of like fish scales.

Anyway, I thought it would be pretty straight forward. Just rub some polishing compound into the work piece with a round tool, right? So, I tried a variety of rubing tools, brass, wood, steel, even and a pencil eraser. (what ever I could find here in the shop). I used a variety of polishes, from valve grinding compound, to oil mixed with scrapings from my buffing wheel sticks.

jeweling 001.jpg


Well, I didn't get very good results...but learned a few things...mainly that I don't know how to do it.

So how do you do it?
What kind of tools do you use?
What kind of polish?
Is there a guideline for the spacing of the swirls...perhaps a simple formula like 1/2 the dia of the tool?

Does anyone know of a web site that has a tutorial on this process?


Sincere thanks,
Rob
 
Rob, there are a couple tools that gunsmith supplies sell for jeweling. One is a very short-bristle metal brush that one then uses "jeweling compound" or valve grinding compound with. The other is a device that holds a rather coarse Cratex rod (what I use). Brownells would be one place to check. Jeweling tools Some people use the old method of a wood dowel and a fine-grit abrasive powder with a little oil. I've read of people using a finishing nail head for really small areas.
 
I've tried to do it on scrap steel , it is not easy if you do't know what your doing and trying to improvise. :D


Here's some references.


http://www.shopnotes.com/issues/088/sources/metal-jeweling/
HomeView a Sample IssueOnline ExtrasSourcesSign Up For Free E-TipsHow To Subscribe

Issue 88 Hardware & Supplies Sources
Metal Jeweling


Using the metal jeweling technique on page 30 of ShopNotes No. 88 adds a customized look to the metal parts of any project. The 3/8" x 6" medium grit cratex rod that was used to make the pattern shown on the plane in the article came from Tool Crib.

You can also get an “engine turning kit” (080-558-101) that includes many of the items you need. The kit I used came from Brownells. You’ll find ordering information below.

Sources
Brownells
800-741-0015
brownells.com
Tool Crib
800-635-5140
toolcrib.com
Click to expand...



Engine Turning, Jeweling, etc.
(the following was contributed by Ron Bean, rbean@execpc.com)
There are two questions here: how to do it, and what to call it. The latter can generate a lot of discussion that may not be relevant to the original question, but may be interesting anyway.

The pattern on the Spirit of St. Louis was made with an abrasive on the end of a rod or dowel, using a drill press and some kind of step-and-repeat fixture. The size of the dowel and the amount of overlap are determined experimentally, and it may take some practice to get it right (try it on a piece of scrap first). This pattern was popular in the 1920s and '30s for instrument panels and firewalls on luxury sports cars, and occasionally body panels or other parts. It may also be seen on some bank vault doors and old safes.

Many people call this process "engine turning", including most antique car enthusiasts. But if you ask a machinist about "engine turning" they may tell you about a completely different process (or not, depending on their background -- this can cause some controversy). Purists know the abrasive dowel pattern as "jeweling".

Engine turning is done with a machine called a "rose engine" or "decoration lathe", which cuts grooves in geometric patterns similar to the old "Spirograph" toy. It was used to decorate the cases of pocket watches and other small items, and also to engrave printing plates for stock and bond certificates. It was developed in the 18th century and died out around WWI. There is also a "straight line" engine turning machine which makes similar patterns, but resembles a shaper rather than a lathe.

Many people now think that "engine turning" just means a decorative pattern on metal, but purists try to discourage this usage. (A web search for "engine turning" found a lot of old pocket watches for sale, but very few photographs).

Other related terms:

Spotting: Similar to jeweling but done with a hollow tube.
Snailing: "A series of radial curved lines around a circle, produced with the edge of the rim of a flywheel shaped polisher."
Guilloche: Engine turning with enameling over it, as on the Faberge eggs. For some comments on Faberge's methods, see http://unitedartworks.com under "Techniques of Jewelry".
Ornamental turning: Any kind of decorative work done on a specially equipped lathe. These days it seems to be mostly associated with woodworking, but in the 19th century it was popular with the British aristocracy, who used ivory. For more information see: http://www.tooltimer.com http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/jeharr/history.htm http://www.ics.uci.edu/~eamonn/et/et.htm
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http://www.pistolsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=27791


http://www.3me.us/jewelling.htm

http://brownells.spintest.com/aspx/ns/store/catsearch.aspx?c=4533&p=4800
 
Rob it works best if the surface you are going to work on is mirror polished first. A rough surface doesn't show the fine scratches as well.

I have seen it done in larger sizes with a disc grinder, 50% overlap.
 
I had good results using 600 grit clover brand valve grinding compond and a wooden dowel. I used my mill at 150 rpm with about a thirty second contact time.
 
Rob I use Clover valve grinding compound also in a medium grit. I put a short 1/4" dowel in the drillchuck on my mill and use that to turn the dowel and keep track of how much to advance w/ each stroke. I put a film of compound on the work and go from there. I tried the Cratex sticks with a dedicated holder and went back to the old way. Clover is available from MSC.
 
Jantz has a tool that hold either a 3/16" diameter Cratex round piece or 1/4"" round Cratex ...tool looks alot like a high power rifle cartridge. You can get a number of grit round Cratex rods to use....
Works pretty doggone well....and the more you start with a polished or close surface, the better the engine tuning looks.....

I have used a couple of them for years and they will probably out-live me......
 
Hey Guys!! Thanks for all the input. I'm making some progress. It can be done in a "down and dirty" fashion ...or with true "craftsmanship". So far, I'm in the "down and "dirty" stage but beginning to develope a sense for the "craftsmanship"....where the surface needs to be pre-polished and very carefull attention to spacing, pressure and duration to achieve a flawless looking pattern. Yep...for precise results...it's a tedious process for me. I'll keep working at it.

Thanks again!!

-Rob
 
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