Jimmy Fikes Sharpening Method

D

DannyBoy2k

Joined
Jun 15, 2010
Messages
69
I've read several older (< 2007) posts referencing Jimmy Fikes' sharpening method, but, other than a reference to a rocking motion, I've been unable to find any real detail information on it. I was hoping some members might be able to give me more information on exactly what Jimmy's technique is.

I've been reading about alternative methods of sharpening convex bevels on stones (mentioned here for wood tools http://www.owdman.co.uk/howto/howto.htm) and thought Jimmy's method sounded similar. I'd also be interested in hearing other opinions on this technique of sharpening convex bevels on stones. I've done the mousepad, sandpaper, leather hone method of convex sharpening, but am always curious about other methods.

I've also read references to a video of this technique, but haven't been able to locate it anywhere. I believe it may be footage found in Jimmy's edge testing video that he used to (still does?) offer. Anyone have a copy that want to sell/rent/lend?

Cheers,
Dan
 
Might want to try over in Maintenance, Tinkering & Embellishment. That's where the sharpening nuts hang out.

Mark
 
Dan,

I can't comment on the method you are describing, but since you mentioned interest in other methods...

I've been experimenting with various methods of sharpening the assorted cutting devices around the home, workshop, car, coat, brief case, pants pocket, EDC kit... Yeah, I may be new here, but I'm not "new". I've just decided to join a support group, and am now addicted to sharp... :)

Anyway, I've been achieving a slightly convexed and mirror polished edge by finishing my sharpening on a grinder with a hard felt wheel installed and a fine compound. Much faster than stropping (that I'm not very good at) and the mirrored bevel is rather satisfying. Let me know if you are interested in the details.

Regards,
Dave
 
Hey Dave,

Absolutely. The setup sounds fairly self-explanatory, but any more details you can provide are appreciated. Is the idea similar to the 'paper wheels' sharpening method much bandied about here, except you're just buffing/polishing the final edge?

~Dan
 
Yup, you got the idea. It isn't a complete sharpening solution like the paper wheels are, rather it is a finishing process.

First step is to start with a sharp blade. I've been using Gatco stones and a DMT aligner clamp (didn't like the Gatco clamp) to the desired angle using the coarse, medium and ceramic stones as required. This gets a good working edge on the blade in a reasonable amount of time. The point is to have a decently refined bevel, however you like to achieve it. A 60 grit bevel isn't going to work well for the next step.

Now for the convexing and polishing: I have a Veritas hard felt buffing wheel installed on a variable speed bench grinder. A 6" x 1" wheel on a low profile, wide, 6" grinder. I'd prefer an 8" x 1" buffing wheel for even more clearance from the grinder motor, but couldn't find them locally. The cover and guards are off the grinder and I work from the back of the grinder, on the top of the wheel. This way, when the time comes that I loose my grip on a knife, it will be thrown AWAY from me, not at my crotch. ;) Safety first! It is also nice not having compound, dust, and other stuff flung towards me. :) I have charged the wheel with a generic blue fine polishing compound. Nothing fancy here, just results I'm happy with. Though I have considered trying the Veritas green honing compound when I run out of the cheap blue compound.

I run the grinder at ~2000 RPM (because I'm a chicken and I have a variable speed grinder :eek: ) and hold the knife parallel to the ground, edge away from me, at the 12:00 position of the wheel (when viewed from the side). i.e right above the spindle. I then bring the knife towards me to about the 1:00 position and gently lower the edge of the blade onto the turning wheel at the choil and I immediately make a light sweeping pass on the bevel all the way to the tip, being sure to lift off when the tip gets to the middle of the wheel. I then inspect the bevel to see exactly where I'm polishing. I adjust closer (higher angle) or further away from me (shallower angle), while keeping the blade parallel to the ground, as required to polish the bevel. It may take 3 or 4 passes to get where I want to be. Hence the light passes. Then I make note of the relative position and make a heavy pass on the wheel. Flip over to the other side, in the same position, and make a heavy pass. By heavy I mean heat is generated, the buffing compound is melted and flowing, the grinder is under a noticeable load - but not bogging down. I repeat as required to get the mirror finnish on the entire edge. I then make 1 or 2 very light passes on each side at an ever so slightly higher angle (closer to me) to remove any burr or wire edge that I've created.

This ends up creating a slightly convexed bevel because the hard felt wheel does flex slightly, and my hands are not nearly as accurate as I'd like to believe they are, so I'm making 5 or 6 heavy passes on each side before the 1 or 2 final light passes. The resulting mirror finish on the bevel is very nice (now that I have some practice) and the edge is quite sharp. I think that "hair popping" would be a good description. But certainly not "hair whittling", at least not with my current skills.

I hope that all makes sense!

Regards,
Dave
 
Bill Bagwell sharpens his convex edges this way also on an Arkansas stone. It works very well but sctatches up the blade at the edge a bit
 
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