Jimping file???

Fish30114

Fish30114

Joined
Jan 5, 2014
Messages
1,495
I saw a youtube video from 'Trollsky' a while back https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FYAciT42QZE and early in this video he use a file to cut the jimping lines on the top of the blade he makes in this video. I am interested in what type of a file that is, and where I could get one.

Any input advice welcomed!

Thanks--Don
 
They are called checking files. You can get them from Jantz, Brownells, Amazon, etc.

I would suggest one with no more than 20 LPI (lines per inch)
 
Thanks fella's, I looked out there and they didn't have a description or anything that sounded like em. I'll go back and track one or two down.

Appreciate the guidance.
 
Here you go.

ht tp://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/general-gunsmith-tools/files/metal-checkering-files-prod488.aspx
 
I think the checkering file would be fine for coining an outside radius (ie spine) but would have trouble with the underside of liners where the curve is generally curved the opposite way.
 
Lo/Rez said:
I think the checkering file would be fine for coining an outside radius (ie spine) but would have trouble with the underside of liners where the curve is generally curved the opposite way.
Click to expand...

Correct! Flats or convex only.
 
As noted with checkering files the "wide" body files work great over long flat areas where the "narrow"body file will work better around a radius or curve.

Check "Otto Frei" they are a jewelry making supply house with a great file selection... I get my mini files and checkering files from them.
 
Be sure to make sure your file lines up correctly... on mine (and most from what I hear) the pattern adds an extra line about 3/4 down. You can just grind it and get them working better that way. File guides really help a lot too.
 
Has anyone been able to locate a checkering file that is Under 20 tpi?
I would like a 15 or even a 10, considering that a 20 tpi is .050 gap between grooves...
 
How hard would it be to take a 20 or a 30 and remove every other row to create a 10 or 15 tpi file?

Would a carbide dremel bit be up to the task?
Do they make surface mill bits that might work?
 
You would have to be extremely good and careful with the Dremel.
you would need to use the thin separating discs. I doubt you can do this on a 30 LPI, as the teeth are larger than the disc thickness.
 
Just wanted to add a bit of information to this thread since my little tidbit doesn't warrant it's own thread.

I got off the phone with a tech from Grobet and the files they make are made of "Carbon steel" with no specific alloy available to him.
But, they are ran to 64-66 hrc, so they should be fine for Most knives post heat treat.
------
As an aside, does anyone know if carbide rich steels (m390, s110v, et al) should cause the files to wear out faster due to carbide volume and hardness?
 
I will just add that I have used lots of checkering files. My favorite are 20 LPI and 30 LPI. They are great for checkering and Florentine work. They are not very good for jimping. Jimping done with one would be just a group of shallow lines. If all you wanted was a slight non-skid area, then it would work. If the jimping is desired to be more than a few thousandths deep, mark the lines with a sharpie and use a tri-corner file to cut them in.

Making multiple passes with a checkering file usually ends up in a mess. The lines rarely align very well, which makes more lines than planned. In doing Florentine surfaces, that is OK, on a spine where you want even lines, it isn't.

Coining is far better done with a coining wheel, followed up by hand filing. Most machinists are familiar with these wheels. I am sure any industrial supplier of lathe and milling tools carries them. When I do coining, I just mark the lines with a sharpie and do them by hand with a tri-corner file.

Tip - use fine files, #2 cut makes nice crisp lines. #4 is even better for coining and doing file work in brass/nickel/silver/gold. #6 leaves a surface like 400 grit paper. You can use an 0 file for the beginning cuts, then switch to a finer file get the final depth and shape. If all you have ever used is the coarse #00 files in the online kits, you can't believe how smooth the surface is with a #4 file.

Tip #2 - to make even marks to file on a spine or bolster spacer, start by making two marks. ON the spine it would be the ends of the pattern. On a spacer, it would be at opposite sides of the diameter line. Next, make marks half way between those marks, and then make marks between those, etc, until it is as fine as you want. The spacing will stay pretty even this way. This makes spine lines of 2/3/5/9/17/33. Spacers ( circles) will have marks of 2/4/8/16/32. I use a fine tip sharpie to make the marks. If I don't like it, I take it off with a little alcohol, and start again.

I don't think checkering files are made lower than 20 LPI. To get an understanding of what a 20 LPI files is, look at a bastard file and count the teeth in one inch. It is probably around 20.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
I will just add that I have used lots of checkering files. My favorite are 20 LPI and 30 LPI. They are great for checkering and Florentine work. They are not very good for jimping. Jimping done with one would be just a group of shallow lines. If all you wanted was a slight non-skid area, then it would work. If the jimping is desired to be more than a few thousandths deep, mark the lines with a sharpie and use a tri-corner file to cut them in.

Making multiple passes with a checkering file usually ends up in a mess. The lines rarely align very well, which makes more lines than planned. In doing Florentine surfaces, that is OK, on a spine where you want even lines, it isn't.

Coining is far better done with a coining wheel, followed up by hand filing. Most machinists are familiar with these wheels. I am sure any industrial supplier of lathe and milling tools carries them. When I do coining, I just mark the lines with a sharpie and do them by hand with a tri-corner file.

Tip - use fine files, #2 cut makes nice crisp lines. #4 is even better for coining and doing file work in brass/nickel/silver/gold. #6 leaves a surface like 400 grit paper. You can use an 0 file for the beginning cuts, then switch to a finer file get the final depth and shape. If all you have ever used is the coarse #00 files in the online kits, you can't believe how smooth the surface is with a #4 file.

Tip #2 - to make even marks to file on a spine or bolster spacer, start by making two marks. ON the spine it would be the ends of the pattern. On a spacer, it would be at opposite sides of the diameter line. Next, make marks half way between those marks, and then make marks between those, etc, until it is as fine as you want. The spacing will stay pretty even this way. This makes spine lines of 2/3/5/9/17/33. Spacers ( circles) will have marks of 2/4/8/16/32. I use a fine tip sharpie to make the marks. If I don't like it, I take it off with a little alcohol, and start again.

I don't think checkering files are made lower than 20 LPI. To get an understanding of what a 20 LPI files is, look at a bastard file and count the teeth in one inch. It is probably around 20.
Click to expand...

Straight Knurl wheels , coining wheels will just get you some car steering wheel pattern.


Looking at different screw threads will give you a better idea

1/4-20screw is popular.

Many other threads, inch or metric depending on how you think.
 
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