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Jimping help

Joined
Jun 2, 2011
Messages
289
So, I've been doing soem expirimenting with doing my own jimping. I tried a file on my BK-11, and decided it wasnt working weel enough; so I moved to the dremel. Some of the jimp came out good,soom not so good. I chalked it up to first attempt. This morning I put some masking tape on the spine of my BK-2, and marked out my spacing. I got out the dremel and hit it once again. I didnt go too deep, just enough to get some traction. I got better results than I did on my 11, but not as clean as I would like. I am chalking this up to not having a vice, and I am doing it freehand. Can anyone give me any tips to make this go smoother, and do a better job?
 
use a file. it works ''well enough'' it's just slow. and slow is good when ur doing irreversible steel removal, or at least thats how I feel about it. A good Sharp file.
 
A good sharp file works great. But if you are gonna use a Dremel (my tool of choice) make sure that you are using new thin cutoff wheels. I have an old Dremel 275 singlespeed so i went real slow and took my time. I use the thin wheels to mark the jimping lines and then go over it with a file. That's how I did my bk11. I'm planning to do my bk2 cause I got some great ideas after thrillbilly did his pommel and jimping on his bk2.

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If you have the money maybe get a checkering file? Thats how some custom knife makers do it... I just use a dremel.
 
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Going to second the method emperorpvince suggested, that is how I did mine. Use the dremel to mark it, then use a file to actually cut in the jimping. Use the tape like he did. I didn't, and while it came out okay, it would have been better if I used the tape to mark it all off.
 
I used a Dremel with a cut-off wheel as well. They certainly are not perfect, but mine are users anyways. I just did mine by eye. No tape, no measuring, marking, nothing. I guess if you really need them to be exact, a machine shop would be the way to go. Me, i originally wanted a machine shop to do mine. But then when i started looking, i found no-one really wanted to do it, and what they would have charged me, was proof of that IMHO. One said $80 per knife. I have a LOT of knives. Thats when my standards changed. It took me a while to lower my standards, but mine work great for me, but they sure ain't pretty. They DO have lots of character though ! LOL :D
 
I started with a chainsaw file and moved to a dremel carbide bit. I use the carbide bit to jimp the spine now and there are usually cut marks i guess. you can see left from the bit. then i take the chainsaw file again and smooth it out. I think i use the 1/8 carbide bit. . If your careful and steady its fine. I like the wider jimping from the circle bits. if you want something finer you can just use the cut off wheels.
 
Thank you for this post. I am still new to all the terminology and I can never remember what "those cool little grooves on the top" are called. Once I add a couple more knives to the family I will try to bring myself to start grinding on them.
 
I used the shaft extension and a round diamond file bit with my Dremel, and it worked amazing. Using the extension gives you much more control. Just go slow and keep it cool. :cool:

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