Jimping on curved surface

[Wetenkampf]

I’m trying to figure out how to add jimping to a curved section where the thumb would rest. I know a triangular file would work, but it is not very precise. I was looking for a checkering file that had maybe 2 columns of teeth so I could get in the curve. I can’t find any checkering files like this. I’d be happy to hear how yall would go about this.

 

[Bill DeShivs]

Jewelers saw.

 

[coldsteelburns]

You could also always grind down a 1/2" checkering file to a 1/4", or less perhaps, which is what Kit Carson did. You might find some helpful info in this older thread: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/checkering-files.244417/


Or here: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/checkering-file-question.1282643/

~Paul
My Youtube Channel
... (Some older vids of some of the older knives I made)

 

[tim37a]

I HAD A CHECKERING FILE LASER CUT UNDERWATER INTO 2 AND 3 ROW WIDTHS. WORKS LIKE A DREAM .

 

[Hengelo_77]

I'd mark with a fine sharpy the beginning and end of the jimping. Next mark half way. Now mark half way between the middle and the beginning and half way between the middle and the end.
Repeat as often untill your marks are as close to eachother as you like.
I'd cut with fine triangular needle files.
Cut from the left to the right and from the right to the left in the same cut.
That helps to keep the cuts 90degrees

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

I use the same method as Bart when adding filework, but after drawing the marks I use a jewelers saw and a #2 blade to make shallow cuts. Then I do the filework using the cuts as guides.

 

[Nick Dunham]

You'd get a different pattern, but some people drill theirs on the line before cutting the profile from flat stock. You'd still have to lay it out, though.

 

[Hengelo_77]

I use the same method as Bart when adding filework, but after drawing the marks I use a jewelers saw and a #2 blade to make shallow cuts. Then I do the filework using the cuts as guides.

I actualy got that technique from you. Thnx again

 

[HSC ///]

One way to do it may yield the best results but is also probably the hardest to setup and get going.
If you clamp the blade in a grinding vise and set it up on a surface grinder, use a thin 7-8" cutoff wheel in the grinder spindle, you can make little plunges to create the jimping,

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

I made a device for serrations or jimping from a HF chainsaw sharpener (It started out as a graton grinder idea). The blade was clamped in the chain vise and a wheel was lowered on the arm to make the groove. You could use any size wheel from a very thin cut off wheel to a 1/4" pink vitrified stone wheel. Worked OK, but not really worth the effort for me. It is still out in the storage shed, IIRC.

 

[Wyo Coyote]

I use an old hand saw sharpening filing jig. Does one groove at a time but works great. I'll try and post a picture later.