(Jody) Muller Forge Katana

Burchtree

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Stopped by and saw Jody from Muller Forge (www.mullerforge.com). He and his father make blades together, but this one was mainly built by Jody. I don't know the specs, but it's a big one. Jody did all the hardware and engraving and another fellow did the wrap. Sorry for the poor pics, but I just snapped some off while he had it out on a table.

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That's a beauty! Hey Michael when will we see a wakizashi or katana from you? Have you thought about doing one? :D
 
Sweet! the only thing that I do not like about this katana is the fact that it will not be at the Gateway St Louis show for me to drool over. Great piece!
 
Thanks to Burch for posting and to everyone for the esteem boost. I thought we needed some specific info here. The blade is 1200 layers of 1095 & L6, it is 30" and the overall is 41". A ll the hardware is sterlingsilver and the suba is wroughtiron with 22ct gold overlay. A sword polisher named Mike Price wrapped the handle and advised on proper sword practices. My customer wanted the damascus very distinct, so even though we clay tempered the hamon doesnt show. This was a famliy project were lots of help was given to me and dad. Hope you like it.
 
What is the scabbard made out of, what is the finish on the scabbard, and what is the kurikata made of?

What does the sword weigh, and what is the point of balance?

You used some good metal for a sword, do you think it will cut well before bending? Do you think that this sword would break or bend first.

The spine looks fairly straight. What is the blade curvature?

Very, very nice furniture. I was going to commend you on the wrap job, even so, I commend you on the selection of handle wrapper that you used.

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson
 
I would like to note that this is the only sword that I have made so I am very green to this style. The sword weight is 2" 5oz and balances 6" from the suba. There has been no cutting , Yet! I believe that with the clay tempering it would bend sideways, but crack or chip on the edge with a severe blow straight on. The wood is MO ash with a acrylic crackle finish ,satin finish sealer. Hippo ivory for the fitting. I am having a hard time with the curve, it is fairly straight, maybe 1 1/2" off center. I appreciate your interest, feel free to ask more questions.
Jody
 
and, I am amazed that this is his first Japanese Style sword. He did a very, very good job for a first time effort, and that is to be commended. I recommended Yoshindo Yoshihara's book the Craft of the Japanese Sword, and recommend it to anyone who is interested in nihonto.

The book is most valuable to western smiths for a) proper shape and curvature ideals in the blades, and b) to show what a hamon SHOULD look like, clear and defined, not some mushy shadow on the blade like many who THINK they know what hamon should look like attempt and fail at.

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson
 
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