Joshua Tree National Park Traverse

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Sep 27, 2009
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I got together w/ the same group of guys that I ran the Grand Canyon with last spring, this year's gig was a traverse of Joshua Tree National Park via the California Riding Hiking Trail (CRHT)- 38 miles in length point to point. We would camp (and finish) at Blackrock Canyon campground

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I have two different tales to tell of our Joshua Tree run. The first tale starts about 4:00 AM where folks are rubbing the sleep out their eye (and smoke from the campfire the previous night), grabbing a quick bite and a cup of coffee and finally piling in the van to head for the half way point (Ryan's Campground) to stash our water for the second half of the run. We hid our water to keep any indian and cowboy playing kids from wrecking our run (jugs had well marked sharpie messages to keep to keep any well doing person from picking up "trash"). We continued on to the starting point arriving almost spot on our planned time. At 6:40 AM we were on our way!

The sun was coming up and the temps were in the upper 50's- perfect. I settled into what felt like a decent pace and enjoyed the desert scenery- it was gorgeous. The entire 38 mile length of the CRHT (California Riding Hiking Trail) has mile markers and they were great to gauge pace and serve as a reminder to fuel and hydrate. I was soaking in the scenery and the mile markers seemed like they were flying by. By my calculations I was only 3 miles from the half way point as I approached a pretty decent ascent, saving energy I walked the ascent and before long I was rewarded with a wonderful long descent.

This is where the second tale starts. Not too very far into the descent my calves rebelled- violently. I stopped running in disbelief and walked. Started to run again and the cramps came back instantaneously. OK no need for panic, just walk the 2 miles to the half way point and refill bottles/bladder and take a little breather. One by one, several of the guys passed me and everyone but one of us was at the half way point arriving within minutes of each other- a little less than four hours. It turns out Adana was also suffering cramps (not just calf, but quad and hamstrings as well). Sitting down was a challenge as my calves wanted to lock up (turns out getting up was even more challenging!). My water strategy seemed perfect, I had drained my 1 liter bladder, but both bottle had water remaining. I finished those off and refilled everything to the brim. Adan and I decided to stick together and when we left we thought it would behoove us to walk for a mile or so. After a mile we tried to run, no dice. Another mile, still no dice. Another, same thing. We started messing with our gait and both find a way we could run even w/ the cramps, albeit not very fast (but faster than walking). We were starting to cover ground pretty decently again and feeling good about catching up with some of the others. At ~ mile 24 were descending a long switched back section and let out a couple of war hoops, not realizing the loose wheels were about to come off. As we descended we both scanned the country side to see which way the trail would lead, we couldn't pick it out. Soon it became very apparent which way the trail was going- up, way up. The temps were now into the mid 70's which sounds rather pleasant, but coming from Montana and training in 20 and 20 degree weather- it felt hot. The trail rose relentlessly and it was quickly taking it's toll. My stomach started to rebel at this point and would remain in rebel mode the rest of the journey. The light bulb also went off for me when I realized my wonderful hydration strategy at this pace was going very awry! I started carefully nursing my liquids, cursing myself for not factoring in a much slower pace. I turned onto another switchback and looked straight into a thorny bush, what was this? I reached in and retrieved an old Gatorade bottle that appeared to be full of water. No scientific testing, I unscrewed the lid and drank. Adan was right behind and he did the same. I fully filled one of my bottles and Adan refilled one of his with remaining water. No one will convince me other wise, an angel looking out for me.

We finally crested the top and arrived at Lower Covington Flat and started out our funny gait and "ran". Unfortunately we both knew that our next destination was Upper Covington Flat and we knew what that meant . The axle nut on the wheel was only hanging on by a thread at this juncture. In our minds we were convinced some joker had moved the mile markers apart, each mile seemingly longer than the previous one. At ~ mile 32 we finally descended again, a long wash that lead to Black Rock Canyon. While we welcomed the downhill, the sand was deep and loose and the joker that was moving the mile markers was now moving them farther apart. A little while into the wash there was a junction for Eureka Peak, 2.5 miles in the other direction. I jokingly asked Adan if we wanted to take short detour and bag Eureka Peak. He answered that he didn't find that %#**@ing funny at all. That made me laugh pretty hard at my own joke, but almost immediately I suffered severed cramps that had me bent over, now Adan did think that was pretty funny! After a couple of agonizingly slow miles going down, I decided to the hell with it and cramps or no cramps, I'm going to run to put an end to this madness. It was very pretty running through the deep sand, dodging obstacles (most w/ a thorny reward), but it was getting me down the wash faster (I later learned that Adan was inspired by my attempt to run and he did likewise, only to be rewarded a short while later with a simultaneous multiple muscle group cramp that put him head first into the sand! I should also mention that Adan was having major problems with one of shoes as if couldn't have gotten any worse).

I finally made it to camp, much worse for the wear 10.5 hours after our start (for those that don't like math, sub 4 hours to the half way point, 6.5 hours for the second half . About 45 minutes later Adan arrived and I got a glimpse of what I must have looked like- not very damn good. Slowly my appetite came back and the more I ate and the more I drank, the better I felt. Sitting around the campfire I'd occasionally let out a yell as I mistakenly would try and cross my leg or other such move that would lock my leg(s) into a violent cramp. But eventually all the woes were washed away and we moved on to already starting to plan on our next adventure.

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So, you basically ran 1.5 marathons, in the desert? In 10 some hours?

Hesus Christo man. That's hardcore.

Better than a treadmill, I guess.

Scenery looks awesome.
 
This is where the second tale starts.
Nothing like a little hardship and Divine intervention to sweeten the telling and the memory:D
Another awesome run. Glad you were able to finish in spite of the cramps!
 
So, you basically ran 1.5 marathons, in the desert? In 10 some hours?

Hesus Christo man. That's hardcore.

Better than a treadmill, I guess.

Scenery looks awesome.

I love the mountains that I hang out in, but the desert is incredibly beautiful (hostile as well!)- I'll definitely be going back

Nothing like a little hardship and Divine intervention to sweeten the telling and the memory:D
Another awesome run. Glad you were able to finish in spite of the cramps!

thanks- yeah not that I wouldn't have taken a non-eventful run :D, but you're right it's tougher events that get engrained in our memories

No running in the desert lol. Glad to hear the Good Lord was looking out for ya.

Bryan

amen to that!
 
mt warden...the man, the myth, the moustache! :)


sounds like a fun albeit slightly dangerous trek. glad everyone made it home safe! Thank you for sharing with us!
 
Great run. Too bad about the cramps. Congrats on making a run that many of us can only dream about now. I would do well to hike that trail.
 
thanks gents! :) I guess it wouldn't be much of an adventure if there wasn't at least some hardship involved :D

I start getting into some long distance trail racing this past year and while both fun and satisfying, getting together with a bunch of guys- planning out and eventually executing a run in some of the best nature has to offer is simply more fun and more satisfying!
 
Great experience mtwarden! I'll stick to the much shorter 5-10K mud runs:D Still, running in a desert like that is quite an experience. Kudos to you and your buddies for pushing the limits together.

ROCK6
 
Rock- it's funny when folks ask me about running and I tell them what I like to do, a bunch of them always suggest I need to do mud/obstacle runs, basically inferring that you must be crazy so here is some crazy stuff you'd be sure to like :)

truth is, I'm not that crazy- while I might be sore after a long a run and I do take an occasional spill on the trail- I'm not routinely bruised and covered in my own blood (and mud!) :D

Mike
 
This is awesome. I trail run long distance as well but certainly not in the desert! I'm pretty jealous I would love to join on a trip like this but I don't know anyone hardcore enough to join me! I've spent a bit of time in Joshua tree NP and it's beautiful.

I do a lot of spartan races and obstacle runs but it just comes down to I love to run. Running makes me happy weather I'm jogging down main street or up a steep muddy trail. I'd love to join you guys on a run like this it would be a blast.
 
This is awesome. I trail run long distance as well but certainly not in the desert! I'm pretty jealous I would love to join on a trip like this but I don't know anyone hardcore enough to join me! I've spent a bit of time in Joshua tree NP and it's beautiful.

I do a lot of spartan races and obstacle runs but it just comes down to I love to run. Running makes me happy weather I'm jogging down main street or up a steep muddy trail. I'd love to join you guys on a run like this it would be a blast.

we get together every year (or at least have the last two :D), if you're interested you're more than welcome to join us next we're looking a Trans Zion run or possible Rae Lakes Loop, both dandies, both in the 40's for mileage
 
danke :)

for those curious, here's what I brought on that trip- the pack is a Ultimate Direction AK "race" pack- I chose it because I like bottles over bladders, one I like to use for calories (and hydration) usually mixed w/ Hammer Perpetuem and Heed- my mix yields ~ 350 calories/bottle, the other for water- can't do that w/ a bladder, it forces me to carry a handheld- which I'll do in a pinch, but prefer not to; bottles also let me know where I'm at w/ my water supply- bladder that is hidden in the pack it's almost impossible, bottles are also quicker and easier to fill

the pack has numerous small pockets and one larger stretch main pocket in the back- the smaller pockets are filled w/ Clif shot blocks, electrolyte tabs, ready to go pouches of Perpetuem/Heed (just add to a bottle of water), sunscreen, camera- the main pack had a AMK heatsheet, small signal mirror, whistle, small compass, map, small fire kit, small first aid kit- a beanie, gloves, windshirt and Buff, a few Hammer power bars and 1 liter platy bottle

I try and consume ~ 250 calories/hour- a mix of the Perpetuem, shot blocks and power bars- water was figured on ~ 15 oz/hour (two 20 oz bottles and a 35 oz platy bottle); when I refilled at the half way point there was still water remaining in both bottles (the platy was used up) so I had figured pretty well- where I screwed up was not accounting for a much slower pace in the 2nd half- a lesson well learned :D
 
Mtwarden- I was just looking at the AK pack today before you posted that! I've been using a small Fox camelbak for trail running for years but it's getting pretty ragged and it's been discontinued for years as well. I was looking into getting an AK after watching the video today. You sound like you like it, anything you don't like or one you would also suggest checking out since I'm getting close to getting a new running pack. The one I have now will take a 2L bladder, and has a small pocket for keys, phone, gel's, etc... It's great because it doesn't bounce at all while running which is my main concern. I hate hand held anything so I've always used a bladder but I definitely know what you mean about not knowing how much is left, been burned on that many times.

I need something really small, basically enough for water, a snack, and maybe a jacket/shirt. Size wise the AK looks tiny from what I've seen, would you use it on short trail runs as well as long? Sorry for all the questions but I figure you could give some good advice on the subject since you just ran with it. This is the one I've used for years, I love it but it's falling apart. I use it for fast summit hikes as well as long runs. I don't usually bring a gun or flask on trail runs :)

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^ that looks like a nice sized pack

the overall pack (AK) is pretty small, but it's a deceiving small, but because you can actually fit a lot of stuff in it :D

for shorter runs I usually only need one bottle and use a Nathan Trek waist pack (occasionally a handheld, but like you they aren't my favorite), anything long enough I need two bottles I use the AK

if a guy wanted- for shorter runs you could leave the bottles at home (I don't think the vest would carry well w/ just one bottle) and then use a small bladder instead (1-1.5 l)

the pack loaded up carries very nicely and like I said carries more than one would think

if you need a little more room, I'd also look at their SJ pack and if a bladder will work- the Mountain Hardwear Fluid 6 is a nice carrying pack- it's what I use if I have to carry more than the AK is capable (but am forced to carry a handheld w/ it for calories)

typical AK contents


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I appreciate the pics thanks. The fox pack I posted is actually very tiny. Looks much bigger in the picture. I think I'm conviced though. Between you and doing some research I think the AK will work perfectly for trail runs and quick day summits/hikes. I'm sure it's capable of carrying much more than I need, I like to go light as possible. Just with what u have laid out there, I would have trouble fitting that in the pack I posted. Thanks man, I'm always excited for new gear.
Aren't we all :)
 
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