Juice Improvements

[Gadgetman7]

I carried the S2 and/or the XE for a couple of years now. These are great practical tools but I would like to at least see the main knife blade lock. Also, upgraded steel would be nice. Finally, get rid of the flimsy can opener and replace the lanyard loop with a smaller can opener. What improvements would you guys like to see?

 

[houdini28]

I agree with upgrading the steel and adding a lock; however, I like the can opener. It has worked well for me. I also like that the can opener functions as an assist for the corkscrew.

I'd like to see them sharpen the awl that comes on the tools as well. Or possibly, replace the awl with a nail file similar to the one seen on the Micra or Squirt S4. With the awl not sharpened it works well as a marlin spike but so would the nail file. I'd have so many other uses for the awl if were sharper. And yes, I could sharpen the awl my self and I have but I feel it is something I shouldn't have to do when buying such a product. With all that said, the Juice CS4 is still my favorite tool for general EDC.

 

[znapschatz]

I agree with upgrading the steel and adding a lock; however, I like the can opener. It has worked well for me. I also like that the can opener functions as an assist for the corkscrew.

I'd like to see them sharpen the awl that comes on the tools as well. Or possibly, replace the awl with a nail file similar to the one seen on the Micra or Squirt S4. With the awl not sharpened it works well as a marlin spike but so would the nail file. I'd have so many other uses for the awl if were sharper. And yes, I could sharpen the awl my self and I have but I feel it is something I shouldn't have to do when buying such a product. With all that said, the Juice CS4 is still my favorite tool for general EDC.

What is your technique? I have never been able to work the corkscrew assist properly. Last time I tried required a repair from Leatherman (no charge). I don't use the assist any more, but still get good results from the corkscrew by tightening it down almost to the handle, then rocking it a bit on the bottle rim to break koose the cork. Works every time. It's a usable bottle and can opener, though.

Maybe the awl should have come sharper, but it was no big deal to get it that way. Frankly, I am more relaxed about this because I got the tool at a blowout clearance sale and was more than happy to make a simple mod at the price. My CS4 nicely fills a niche formerly occupied by a PST, now in honoable semi-retirement as an occasional loaner.

 

[Steely_Gunz]

I too have a problem with the can/bottle opener on my CS4. I think it is more of a manufaturing error on my tool than an actual design flaw. When I try to use the bottle opener (a must-have on any tool I would carry), the spine of the opener sort of "jumps" the spine of the spring causing the opener to hyperextend a few extra degrees. I'm sure I could send it in to leatherman. I have been meaning to, but I just keeps slipping my mind.
Also, the awl is ridiculous. I finally took the time to file it to a point, but for the cost of the juice line a lot of these issues should be taken care of at the factory.
I really like all the stuff that comes on the CS4, but with some of the goofy flimsy issues I have had, I have just stuck with my Fuse

Jake

 

[houdini28]

Znapschatz, my technique for the corkscrew is the same as a dedicated corkscrew with an assist. I put the corkscrew in almost all the way. I then angle the handle till I can position the assist on the rim of the bottle. The corkscrew is straight in the cork, the assist and handle are angled so that the assist is on the rim of the bottle.

Next I lever the handle up which should pull the cork up. I adjust the assist and corkscrew as needed until the cork is removed. After the cork is pulled up a little way from the bottle you may not need the assist and you may be able to simply pull it the rest of the way out.

 

[znapschatz]

Znapschatz, my technique for the corkscrew is the same as a dedicated corkscrew with an assist. I put the corkscrew in almost all the way. I then angle the handle till I can position the assist on the rim of the bottle. The corkscrew is straight in the cork, the assist and handle are angled so that the assist is on the rim of the bottle.

Next I lever the handle up which should pull the cork up. I adjust the assist and corkscrew as needed until the cork is removed. After the cork is pulled up a little way from the bottle you may not need the assist and you may be able to simply pull it the rest of the way out.

Hm. That's what I thought I was doing, but it never worked right. Once I chipped the bottle rim, and finally the tool itself sprung, like described by Steely Gunz. That there is only one point resting against the rim might be my problem. Most of the assists I have seen have two points of contact that form a more stable purchase with the bottle.

Anyway, my current technique works fine, so I'll leave the assist to those who are more adept with it.

Seems like you have had a lot of practice?

 

[symphonyincminor]

A steel upgrade for the plain edge blade would be nice, even though the 420 (HC?) they use is very easy to sharpen and takes a fine edge.

I'm fine with the non-locking knives in my Pro, but really wish there was a way to have locking screwdrivers. Out of all the tools I use, I think the screwdrivers are subjected to the most downward pressure. As a result, they fold on me once in a while. I've also been cut when pulling out the smaller flathead screwdrivers because of the way the nail nick is set up - the sharp edges catch me right under the thumb nail when pulling them out. I no like.

I don't use my awl (ever), but agree that it should come at least a little sharp from the factory.

Love my Pro and Sc2.

 

[houdini28]

Most of the assists I have seen have two points of contact that form a more stable purchase with the bottle.

Most of the waiter's assists do have two points of contact and are a much better tool to use; however, sometimes the only thing you have on hand is a CS4, SAK, or the like. I will always use an actual corkscrew over my multitool if I have the choice.

Seems like you have had a lot of practice?

I've had enough practice

 

[JoeBW]

If I remember correctly, Leatherman made some chages to the assist due to flexing problems like two of you are describing. I don't recall whether the changes were in heat treat, metal choice or with a dimensional change. Try looking inside the tool on the sides to get the date code. If you have date codes ending in 01, you might want to send the Juice back with a letter describing what is happening.

Hope this helps - Joe

 

[znapschatz]

If I remember correctly, Leatherman made some chages to the assist due to flexing problems like two of you are describing. I don't recall whether the changes were in heat treat, metal choice or with a dimensional change. Try looking inside the tool on the sides to get the date code. If you have date codes ending in 01, you might want to send the Juice back with a letter describing what is happening.

Hope this helps - Joe

Mine is 04. All hope is gone.

 

[znapschatz]

A steel upgrade for the plain edge blade would be nice, even though the 420 (HC?) they use is very easy to sharpen and takes a fine edge.

Actually, I am fine with the steel on this particular blade. I don't use it often enough to have to sharpen constantly, so I prefer that it just be easy to sharpen to a good edge when necessary. That it does.

I'm fine with the non-locking knives in my Pro, but really wish there was a way to have locking screwdrivers. Out of all the tools I use, I think the screwdrivers are subjected to the most downward pressure. As a result, they fold on me once in a while. I've also been cut when pulling out the smaller flathead screwdrivers because of the way the nail nick is set up - the sharp edges catch me right under the thumb nail when pulling them out. I no like.

That's a good thought on locking drivers. However, the Juice is intended for lighter use. That means when the drivers fold, it won't hurt so much

I don't use my awl (ever), but agree that it should come at least a little sharp from the factory.

OTOH, I use the awl a lot, sometimes for its intended purpose. Usually, I could get it to work, but finally got around to sharpening the point and it works better. It wasn't a deal breaker, although I did send a letter to them expressing my annoyance. If they get a few more, maybe something will change.

Love my Pro and Sc2.

And I my CS4. It's both useful and fun to play with.