just a little feller :-)

balibalistic · Mar 9, 2009

Got the proto finished today!!

Blade: 3/16 ATS-34
Handles: TI
Spacers: TI
Latch: TI
Clip: TI
IKBS Powered!!

OAL is 7.3" with 3.2" blade and 2.8" cutting edge.fits the hand perfectly and flips like a charm! has a high hollow grind thats meant to be used hard.i left edge a little thicker just for this reason.blade has a handrubbed finish,everything else has a bright orange peel (besides clip). i figured out a way to really shine up the orange peel,yet still extremely grippy.i shaped spacers on a small wheel again,so they're pretty groovy

also made rounded benchmade style ears to go with the skeleton pattern

My better half's tiny hands to show size.

Sam Eddleman · Mar 9, 2009

sweet little knife!

Keith Montgomery · Mar 10, 2009

Another beauty.

C.Edmondson · Mar 10, 2009

Thats a beauty, when I was young I tried so hard to learn how to swing them things around and open them up fast, It usually ended up cutting me:grumpy:

alejandrino · Mar 10, 2009

Wow, that is nice !!

Lucky Bob · Mar 10, 2009

Random thing I had been wondering, seeing the balis you put out (which are awesome, by the way): how do you keep the handles even when closed (without the blade hitting the inside of the handle) or open (at all) without stop-pins?

balibalistic · Mar 10, 2009

Lucky Bob said:
Random thing I had been wondering, seeing the balis you put out (which are awesome, by the way): how do you keep the handles even when closed (without the blade hitting the inside of the handle) or open (at all) without stop-pins?

Hidden stop pins,my friend.hidden stop pins

Lucky Bob · Mar 10, 2009

Care to elaborate? Inside the handles, and they hit the ricasso and the pointy bit (whatever you would call that) respectively?

balibalistic · Mar 11, 2009

Sure Bob..,just give me a bit and i will take some photo's of a knife that is roughed out to try and explain it to you!!

balibalistic · Mar 11, 2009

Heres a couple quick dirty pics!!
One shows open view and how the pins contact the tange,to firmly keep knife open.another shows open view and how pins act as a stop and the other shows how i have to work the horns around the pins for clearance.this does'nt accuratly show how the handles are positioned..,when the knife is assembled with bearing races in place the handles sit about 1/16" further apart.but because its not assembled the pins have some flex.it does look like blade would hit spacers whel latched,but thats due the the unassembled flex.

i blind drill my stop pin holes about .110 deep,then ream. its very important that all pins line up EXACTLY or things will not work! the further the pins are placed to the edge of handle determines how wide the blades waiste will be.i could go closer to the edge,but i would have to narrow out my profile and coil area would'nt be as prodominent.does this make sense??

MRpink · Mar 11, 2009

I always get excited when I see a new thread from you, always a great knife. The wharncliffe (spelling?) blade is nice.

Lucky Bob · Mar 11, 2009

Except for "coil area", yeah, that all makes sense. Moreover, that's flippin' sweet, thanks man!

I love how maker's will share their tricks here... makes me feel all warm and fuzzy!