Just a quick ? about handles ?

Gas and a match seem to work pretty well, but if you don't want to ruin the temper, you could use a chisel and hammer. I'm assuming these are wood scale handles. The link doesn't really show anything.
 
You can go to the Embellishment forum and ask there; lots of good info on projects like this.http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=794

Working linky:
http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product.do?product_id=12429465

I'm pretty sure these are epoxied, then pinned. I've looked at these and similar knives to have around as beaters, and on one there was a spot were there was some seepage of whatever adhesive was used; it was a 'natural', light brown color, IIRC.

20 years ago, I removed handles from a knife like these, because I was bored and wanted to re-handle it. I used a drill press, clamp, and a fat little boring bit (3/4" Forstner, maybe?) to 'hog off' the wood, and re-positioned the knife with each cut; then a chisel in woodshop did the rest. The drill press works because you can set the depth of the drill, so you don't hit the tang. I also taped the edge up & put my eyewear on, after my teacher found out what I was doing. (I thought my ears would bleed after he was done with me; one of those Gunny Hartman/FMJ experiences we all have at least once in our lives.)

If you do this - CLAMP IT DOWN. You don't want it to snag and whip around. Even with the taped edge, it can HURT.

thx - cpr
 
Yup they're most likely epoxied on. That'll require a "mechanical" form of removal, like chipping them off with a chisel then sending, first try just tapping them with a hammer though sometimes that'll be enough.
 
You can go to the Embellishment forum and ask there; lots of good info on projects like this.http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=794

Working linky:
http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product.do?product_id=12429465

I'm pretty sure these are epoxied, then pinned. I've looked at these and similar knives to have around as beaters, and on one there was a spot were there was some seepage of whatever adhesive was used; it was a 'natural', light brown color, IIRC.

20 years ago, I removed handles from a knife like these, because I was bored and wanted to re-handle it. I used a drill press, clamp, and a fat little boring bit (3/4" Forstner, maybe?) to 'hog off' the wood, and re-positioned the knife with each cut; then a chisel in woodshop did the rest. The drill press works because you can set the depth of the drill, so you don't hit the tang. I also taped the edge up & put my eyewear on, after my teacher found out what I was doing. (I thought my ears would bleed after he was done with me; one of those Gunny Hartman/FMJ experiences we all have at least once in our lives.)

If you do this - CLAMP IT DOWN. You don't want it to snag and whip around. Even with the taped edge, it can HURT.

thx - cpr

Heavy leather work gloves are a good idea too. The light ones can get caught, but the heavier ones won't wrap up and pull you in. Not to mention that if your knife whips around, its good protection and saves you some blood and flesh.
 
Give it a good whack with a hammer, if it's from that Winchester set I saw at Walmart they'll come right off. I use Winchesters all the time to do modifications because they're cheap and you can get them in pretty much any blade pattern, and while the blades aren't the best, they are usable.
 
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