Just another hawk

B . Buxton

B . Buxton

Joined
Jul 8, 2001
Messages
3,623
Finished this critter up yesterday. The head is 8 1/2" from edge of blade to spike tip. Blade is 2 1/2" wide. The maple handle has damascus caps on both ends along with the sterling silver inlay. Handle was dyed with leather dye and hand rubbed with 2 coats of danish oil. The damascus was made from 2 bars with opposite twist and 1080 & 15n20 was the steels used.

Bill
 
Well, now, ain't that a beautiful example of a damascus hawk? Way cool, Mr. B!
 
That's beautiful Bill. BTW, a friend of mine whined for half a day until I traded him my hatchet prototype.

Question...All of your hawks are the same thickness at the eyehole. I have been forging a square hole with a little neck. Quite frankly, it's a lot of work. Do you have any problem with your hawks shifting on the handle? I have been doing this because all the old square poll hatchets I have are the same and I figgured they did it for a reason.

If you aren't having any problems I may try my next one in the traditional hawk style like yours. Thanks
 
Thanks guys.

Peter, no the handle slips in from the top like a pick handle, they won't shift or move, seat them good and then put the danish oil to them and that maple swells super tight.

I just looked at the picture of the whole hawk, the inlay looks like its broken in spots in the picture, believe me its not.

Thanks again,

Bill
 
Fieblings light brown? I love the redishness. Curly maple has to be my alltime favorite wood for a hawk haft. I'll show one off here in a day or two Bill. But nothing as nice as that.

Mark
 
Man Bill I keep thinking you can't top that and here you come up with another awesome piece! I think this one chimes my bell better than any that have gone before. Something about its apparent simplicity and the setoff from the silver inlay. Close up it is anything but simple! Absolutely fantastic. Thanks for sharing, if anything would ever make me start down the forging road, this is it.

Dave
 
Thanks Guys.

Mark, I use med.brown dye, but its the danish oil that really brings out the redish look, everything looks fairly dull until it goes on. I can't wait to see your hawk, hawks can be pretty stuff, getting that hole split and drifted, and then keeping everything lined up when forgeing.

Thanks,

Bill
 
Well, that's a hawk for sure, but not "just" a hawk. That's one of the nicest hawks I've ever seen.
 
Yep ,

Keeping everything lined up is tough. Sure are fun to forge though. I think the best part is that you have a lot more real estate to dress it up than you do a knife. Keep em coming. I'll get out and try to get some stuff done tonight. Ive got 4 in the works right now and have ideas for a bunch more.Talked to Ryan Johnson while ago and got his blessing on trying to recreate one of his designs. He He He. A rough facsimile it will be.

Mark

Oh Yea Bill, Have you tried the Tru-Oil gunstock finish?
 
Thanks Danbo, Mark, I've used true oil on knife handles and it takes several coat to come out good and then the finish is just to slick for my liking when it gets wet. It does look good though if you apply it right.

Bill
 
Mark, lately I've been using pure beeswax for the finish on most things including muzzleloaders. I got the idea from the retired gunsmith at colonial williamsburg.
Use a heat source other than a heat gun like a burner or kero heater. Heat the wood until the wax puddles on it and rub it in. Repeat several times buffing in between.
It just makes a beautiful finish. Very tough and water resistant has a very secure feel when you grip it. Fresh it up from time to time with a paste made from equal parts of beeswax and turpentine.
 
that is awesome! Can I ask a knife making very "beginner" question? How do you put your anme on there? Engrave it? etch? Thanks for your time! Paul
 
You all keep making those pretty hawks, I'll have to pretty mine up and then I won't want to use it!;) :p :footinmou
 
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