Just broke down and ordered a Sharpmaker

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Feb 21, 2005
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Yep, I did it.

I'm very good at freehand sharpening, my grandfather taught me a long time ago and made sure I got it right. I can put a shaving edge on just about anything. But, sharpening isn't something I really enjoy...

So I went to Best Knives and ordered myself a Sharpmaker and a steel (the deli people at work don't like it when I steal their steel... they do like when I sharpen their knives though).

I do have a few questions though. How good is it at big knives? My Ka-Bar could use a touch up, and my RTAK is getting dull in a few places. The Ka-Bar I have no doubt that it'll sharpen, but the RTAK is another story.

The other question is should I at some point buy the diamond sticks for it? The diamond sticks cost more than what I paid for the Sharpmaker. How well do the standard hones really work?

I can't wait to get it... I may actually enjoy sharpening with this thing. And if I don't, hopefully I won't have to do it as much (or at least for as long).
 
I have a hard time sharpening anything over 5in. I start to run out of rod. You can sharpen half of the blade at a time but since your good at free hand get it sharp that way and just touch it up with the Sharpmaker. The diamond rods are for reprofiling the blade or for real dull one so you really don’t need them.
 
I broke down and bought one about a year ago except I couldn't wait for shipping so I paid near MSRP.
 
5pins said:
You can sharpen half of the blade at a time but since your good at free hand get it sharp that way and just touch it up with the Sharpmaker.

That's what I was hoping for; but if my free hand angle is off a degree or two from factory or the Sharpmaker is there any point in using the Sharpmaker on my big knives? I've free hand sharpened the Ka-Bar and it's sharp, but doesn't like to keep an edge long (of course, few knives would considering what I put it through), but the RTAK has never really had a major sharpening, I've touched it up a time or two here and there, but it's really too big to sharpen easily (I like my hands to stay attached). I knew when I got it that it was gonna be a bear to sharpen, but so far haven't had to.

Some day I'll find a nice, big, blacksmith quality stone... and a pallet jack to move it with.
 
stevekt said:
I broke down and bought one about a year ago except I couldn't wait for shipping so I paid near MSRP.

I paid around $65 for both the steel and the Sharpmaker... I had a $5 coupon for orders over $50... so it worked out well.
 
Psychopomp said:
That's what I was hoping for; but if my free hand angle is off a degree or two from factory or the Sharpmaker is there any point in using the Sharpmaker on my big knives? I've free hand sharpened the Ka-Bar and it's sharp, but doesn't like to keep an edge long (of course, few knives would considering what I put it through), but the RTAK has never really had a major sharpening, I've touched it up a time or two here and there, but it's really too big to sharpen easily (I like my hands to stay attached). I knew when I got it that it was gonna be a bear to sharpen, but so far haven't had to.

Some day I'll find a nice, big, blacksmith quality stone... and a pallet jack to move it with.

Well if you want to finish it on the sharpmaker at 40 degrees (20 per side), just freehand between 30-39 the so-called 'back-bevel' doesn't have to be as perfect as the 'edge-bevel'. [This is probably best for big, abuse-taking blades]

or if 30 sharpmaker (15 per side), freehand to 10-14 per side.
 
klattman said:
Well if you want to finish it on the sharpmaker at 40 degrees (20 per side), just freehand between 30-39 the so-called 'back-bevel' doesn't have to be as perfect as the 'edge-bevel'. [This is probably best for big, abuse-taking blades]

or if 30 sharpmaker (15 per side), freehand to 10-14 per side.

That helps a lot. Thanks. Now I'm really looking forward to this thing coming.

I hate ordering fun things on weekends, makes it seem like it takes that much longer to come.
 
I have used the sharpmaker to sharpen my Ontario SP-5 , it's a 10" blade, and I get get it to shave the hair off my arm, I find no problem with it. It has not affected its cutting performance at all. All I have used on that blade was the stones set at 40 degrees. I think you will be very satisfied with sharpening larger blades.
 
Psychopomp said:
That's what I was hoping for; but if my free hand angle is off a degree or two from factory or the Sharpmaker is there any point in using the Sharpmaker on my big knives? I've free hand sharpened the Ka-Bar and it's sharp, but doesn't like to keep an edge long (of course, few knives would considering what I put it through), but the RTAK has never really had a major sharpening, I've touched it up a time or two here and there, but it's really too big to sharpen easily (I like my hands to stay attached). I knew when I got it that it was gonna be a bear to sharpen, but so far haven't had to.

Some day I'll find a nice, big, blacksmith quality stone... and a pallet jack to move it with.
You might want to take a look at the Spyderco 302 ceramic Benchstones. They are 8" X 2" and come in medium, fine, and ultra-fine. I sharpen both my Cold Steel Tailmaster and SOG Tigershark with these benchstones with no problem (and they both have around a 9" long blade.).
 
Psychopomp said:
My Ka-Bar could use a touch up, and my RTAK is getting dull in a few places.

The other question is should I at some point buy the diamond sticks for it? The diamond sticks cost more than what I paid for the Sharpmaker. How well do the standard hones really work?

I have trouble with my Kabars because they have 50 degree edge. For this you need Diamond rods, after I sharpened it with diamond rods at 40 degree - have no problems.

I recommend you to have diamond rods - then you'll have complete set. Without them it is really Sharpkeeper (I like this term introduced by somebody here). However if you are good in freehand sharpening you may not need it. Edge reprofiling does not happen very often, for sharpness support standart set is OK.

Thanks, Vassili.

P.S. You can not use Meds on some Japanese blades - only waterstones and then Fine and UFine.

P.P.S. Buy UltraFine rods also - they are not too expensive.
 
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