Just can't do it!

DR.BOOM

DR.BOOM

Joined
Jan 2, 2011
Messages
255
When I ordered my Griptilian it came almost dull. I have been sharpening it the last few weeks and for the life of me I can't get this 154CM sharp. I have done research on the forum and online, changed my techniques and everything and it's still crap. In another thread on here everyone said they took no special steps to sharpen this stuff but does anyone have some that I can try. I really can't stand the thought of sending a knife off to have it sharpened when I am not too bad at sharpening. Thanks in advance.

Graham
 
I use a ceramic V-shape sharpener made by IDAHONE,INC. I can get everything else sharp on this system
 
Just keep at it. I did the same to my Mini Grip using a Lansky and it took a while to get the hang of it but once I did it was all good.
 
Don't know if it helps at all but I have found that I need to use different techniques for different blades. My lansky works well on my spyderco bit I get a better edge on my izula freehand. I'm sure its because of my crappy technique so this might not apply to you but you might wanna try something new. Just a thought.
 
All sharpening, no matter what the system, comes down to one basic concept:
Use the coarsest grit on one side until you raise a burr, then repeat on the other side.

The burr is your friend. Recognize it, get a feel for it. So long as that burr is raised, you should be able to slice paper with your edge. If it can't do even that, you haven't sharpened enough.
 
Griptilians usually come very dull from the factory and you really have to REMOVE MATERIAL WITH COARSE TOOLS to get them really sharp. I´ve used diamond hones and/or freehand sharpening using the mousepad & sanding paper method - with excellent results. Basically, ceramic rods are good just for keeping the very edge of the blade in shape. Any serious damages or reshaping require more drastic methods.
 
The biggest problem I've had with my Spyderco Sharpmaker was learning to clean the files frequently - and to do most of my re-edging/sharpening on the coarser of the two ceramic file sets. Don't forget to do the back bevel first - the Benchmades are done by hand - and could have an odd bevel angle. That may take some time - and require several cleanings.

Clean the ceramic files with Bon Amis or Comet and water.

Stainz
 
I have this situation with some blades also. I find that usually it is becausee the factory edge does not match the sharpening system I am using.
A good place to start is to take a Sharpie marker and color your edge with it. You then sharpen as you normaly would. Now look to see where your sharpening is working the blade and making the Sharpie rub off. This will give you an idea where you are sharpening in relation to the factory grind. Often the grinds aren't perfectly matched side to side, and the angles can be off on one side or another causing you to hit higher up on the edge and not down on the actual meeting of the two grinds. Frequently it will take a courser sharpening media to get the two sides to meet in a fashion that matches your sharpening system. You need to get the blade to match whatever system you use or you won't be able to repeatably get a good consistant sharpening result.
Good luck, it can be a time consuming process, but once you know where your are on the edge you can work appropriatly to match up the edge accordingly.
 
Hate to beat a dead horse but....It sounds like the angle you are sharpening at isn't hitting the apex of the cutting edge. My guess is that the grind on your grip is more obtuse than the angle of your sharpening system which means your are removing metal from the shoulder not the edge. Use a sharpie to check where the stone is removing metal and adjust accordingly. You will need to raise a burr with your most course stone then while keeping your sharpening angle the same move to a finer stone to finish the edge. If you have access to a strop (a piece of cardboard will work in a pinch) use a few edge-trailing strokes to clean off any burr you might have left.

I absolutely love my regular and mini Grips but they all needed some major work on the edge when I first sharpened them. Benchmade uses a pretty obtuse grind so I like to reprofile the edge to a more acute angle. I use DMT diamond bench stones so it doesn't take too much time to reprofile. I can assure you that 154CM can get crazy sharp if your technique is right.
 
My stepfather loves his Grip that I got him when they first came out & got his son one 2 X-mases ago. I handled it side by side with his, which I had sharpened earlier in the day (after it arrived, before X-mas). Lousy factory edge. Took force to shave. I've heard that they've slacked on their factory edge lately. The much-used original Grip was as smooth & tight as the new one, though.

So I put my DMT Aligner on the new one & shot for an angle ever so slightly thicker than the factory one & used light pressure. Started with the red stone & worked up with a feather touch. Got it sharp pretty quick.

You need something other than a V-type system for reprofiling. If the factory angle is thicker than the V's you'll be hitting the bevel instead ofv the cutting edge. Most of those systems are too fine to work fast on a knife with too hick an angle. They're more for bringing back a knife that isn't way too dull yet. Get something like the DMT aligner kit for reprofiling & use that V for touchups when the blade starts to drag a bit & you'll have all bases covered.
 
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