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Just cut some 1/2 inch manilla rope
- Thread starter akadave2
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Yes sir! I use manila rope for all my edge retention testing needs. I buy 3/8" because that is what my local HD carries. 1/2" is even more robust.
Wayne Goddard contends that cutting manila rope is the most similar medium there is to a hunter skinning a critter. IIRC he uses manila rope testing a whole lot.
The other thing about cutting manila rope is that the fibers pull away from the edge as they are cut. This means that you are testing the edge retention of the steel, the sharpness, and the edge angle, but not neccesarily the cutting ability of the individual blade, because the blade profile does not come into play. So somebody that cuts a lot of cardboard might come away with a different impression of a particular knife's cutting abilities than does someone who cuts manila rope.
Wayne Goddard contends that cutting manila rope is the most similar medium there is to a hunter skinning a critter. IIRC he uses manila rope testing a whole lot.
The other thing about cutting manila rope is that the fibers pull away from the edge as they are cut. This means that you are testing the edge retention of the steel, the sharpness, and the edge angle, but not neccesarily the cutting ability of the individual blade, because the blade profile does not come into play. So somebody that cuts a lot of cardboard might come away with a different impression of a particular knife's cutting abilities than does someone who cuts manila rope.
Jason B.
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
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This is true with a sawing motion type cut, if you use a push cut or you are trying to free hang cut your polished edges will work better. I like using manila rope because it seems to wear the edge very evenly. I also like using 3/4 inch, it will give you and your knife a good workout.
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What'd you cut with?
I read about using Manila/Hemp rope for edge testing by Wayne Goddard and Steven Dick the knife writer. I found the smooth polished edges slide over instead of cutting. I found quite a few hand made knives were polished edges and not very good slicers unless the edge is changed. My Sebenza cut very well as did my Spydercos. This type of rope will dull an edge very fast. I found if the knife cuts Manila/Hemp rope well and cardboard and will slice and carve softwoods it will hold up for most uses. I also saw the difference between an edge for slicing as opposed to a polish edge for push cuts. I thank both those gentleman for the information and knowledge on edge testing.
RKH
RKH
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Hey, I'm interested in getting a Delica, how'd it perform?
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Which Delica and compared to what other alloy?
The Delica is normally VG10, but IIRC, I've seen sprint runs in other alloys.
VG10 steel performed at least as well as 154CM.
I've compared my Native III in VG10 to my Grip in 154CM cutting manila rope. I have a hard time differentiating the results of the two steels.
Very similar results.
VG10 is about 1/2 step better than 440C or AUS10.
440C and AUS10 are a full step better than AUS8.
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I know what VG10 is compared to other steels. I want to know how the Delica in the OP's tests did. And I guess I should've asked if he was using a VG10 Delica or not.
I have tested Delica VG10 and BM Grip 154CM and a BM 940 Osborne and they all seem to perform about the same. I have also tested some Vic. SAKS and few handmade folders and I can say a knife sharpened on a stone seems to be a better slicer. The SAKS did very well but lost sharpeness after a few cuts but they sharpened very nicely. What I have noticed is that VG10 sharpens a little easier. In my limited testing I have a hard time telling the difference in steels other than the length of edge holding. And the longer the steel holds an edge the harder it is to sharpen. In my old age, I prefer a steel that is easy to sharpen and holds a edge long enough to complete my cutting tasks. Ain't this fun?
RKH
RKH
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That's true ... but interestingly, I've found that a highly polished edge holds up better, at least in the early going, while a toothier edge loses sharpness much more quickly as measured by pushcutting paper, thread or similar materials. I suspect this is due to the tough fibers of the rope grabbing onto and tearing out metal from the toothier edge.
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I was using the VG-10 version. I only made a few cuts. It did well push cutting. The edge had been strop polished so it had no "teeth".
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I buy 3/8" manila rope at my local home depot.
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Two guys both cutting manila rope with a VG10 blade from the same manufacturer. Said manufacturer has the same hardness spec for both knives.
You were expecting a difference between our results?
In cutting manila rope, the blade shape makes little difference. Only the alloy, hardness, edge angle and initial sharpness affect the outcome.
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you just told me what it compared to in your tests. I was looking more along the lines for how many cuts were made before having to re-sharpen, and such.
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Even though I agree that the fibers (on one side, anyways
) fall away while being cut, and that the advantage of a thin blade is reduced cutting rope vs. some other media, I do not agree that you can completely eliminate the inherent advantage of a thinner blade just by testing on rope (smaller edge thickness at the end of bevel will have over a thicker edge - in other words a longer bevel). There are still factors at play that give an advantage to the thinnest blade/bevel. In fewer words, I question the validity of a steel comparison after testing a knife w/30 degree edge and a 0.01 bevel thickness against a 30 degree, 1/4" scandi even if you are cutting rope.
Maybe those rope testing knifemakers make those thin blades at least partly because of their testing? I need to look and see if they have commented on this....
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Even though I agree that the fibers (on one side, anyways
In fewer words, I question the validity of a steel comparison after testing a knife w/30 degree edge and a 0.01 bevel thickness against a 30 degree, 1/4" scandi even if you are cutting rope.
Maybe those rope testing knifemakers make those thin blades at least partly because of their testing? I need to look and see if they have commented on this....
I've tested a fair number of blades. I have not seen any difference that I could attribute to blade shape.
Alloy? yes
Hardness? yes
initial sharpness? yes (or at least quality of sharpening job.)
I've not done a lot of work comparing edge angle. (as in 15° bevel compared to 20° bevel) I tend to keep everything at a single angle of 15° (30° inclusive).
I suppose that if you ran different evaluation methods or compared some whopping big 5/16" thick blade to a 1/16" thick blade you might see some difference, but the two blades in question, Native and Delica, are not that far apart in thickness or profile. And both of mine are ~0.035" thick at the top of the edge bevel.
I think the substitution was fair.