Just finished a Bush Baby with green ghost jade G10 and etched blade

BMK

BMK

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Bush Baby: 01 tool steel, 6" x 1 3/8" x 1/8. Baby Chisos, 01, etched and blued blade, bead blast green jade ghost scales, aluminum pin and tube. With kydex sheath. 1st time trying Gorilla Glue Original :rolleyes:

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[IMGhttp://www.bushmonkeyknives.com/6_opd_768x493.jpg][/IMG]

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Nicely done and I'm very happy to see chamfered thong tubing!

Gorilla super glue works better than the regular Gorilla glue, it doesn't expand and doesn't cure out that white color (unless you wanted that white color.)
 
Looks real good! I like how even your etch is, I'm hoping for something more like that on my next two! How did you apply it?
 
Nice job BMK,
Like Will, I commend you on the chamfered lanyard tube. The etch is beautiful. Get you logo on there, man. I stopped using Gorilla glue for 2 reasons...

1. The foaming and expanding annoyed the hell out of me.
2. IT IS NOT WATERPROOF!!!! Truth...... I'm glad I tested out epoxies and glues befor I started selling.

I don't know if the foaming action wicks in moisture... but Gorilla Glue (original) breaks down rapidly in water.
 
Will Leavitt said:
Nicely done and I'm very happy to see chamfered thong tubing!

Gorilla super glue works better than the regular Gorilla glue, it doesn't expand and doesn't cure out that white color (unless you wanted that white color.)
Click to expand...

Gorilla super glue lacks the working time - I am not that fast. The Gorilla Original dries to a light amber color. It just seems fitting that a Bush Monkey should be glued with Gorilla glue:D
 
Mr Amon,

There are still some GroupThinkers over there who require some humor modification therapy HMT. Thanks for your question. The fact of the matter is, we are primates, monkeys are primates and I am certain you could train a monkey to do some of the tasks required to make a Bush Monkey knife.
 
Rick Marchand said:
Nice job BMK,
Like Will, I commend you on the chamfered lanyard tube. The etch is beautiful. Get you logo on there, man. I stopped using Gorilla glue for 2 reasons...

1. The foaming and expanding annoyed the hell out of me.
2. IT IS NOT WATERPROOF!!!! Truth...... I'm glad I tested out epoxies and glues befor I started selling.

I don't know if the foaming action wicks in moisture... but Gorilla Glue (original) breaks down rapidly in water.
Click to expand...

The expansion is significant and can be a problem with insufficent clamping pressure - the bubbling looks worse than it actually is. Gorilla glue original is billed as waterproof and many epoxies are not. I researched adhesives and there are knifemakers who use Gorilla and knifemakers who use epoxy. Thanks for the comments and feedback.

Laser etched logo will not work on the aready etched blade. I might start laser etching the tang. I don't photoshop my mark (as a example) anymore because it traumatized some people and I am a nice guy.

http://www.gorillatough.com/glues/glue-guide.aspx
 
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Chainring,

Like you guys told me too - thank you.

1. start with clean bare metal

2. slightly heat blade with heat gun and dab brownell's cold bluing solution on blade using a rag

3. allow to dry and form crust

4. suspend blade in bleach for 30 min (used copper wire but if it makes a difference that difference is beyond by understanding:-)

5. Neutralize reaction using tap water and hose outside

6. 0000 steel wool all rust off and apply light coat of Break Free to blade
 
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You are right, BMK... it does say that it is waterproof on the site.... I know that it is not. Please test it and decide for yourself. What are you using to heat your blades?
 
BMK said:
Chainring,

Like you guys told me too - thank you.

1. start with clean bare metal

2. slightly heat blade with heat gun and dab brownell's cold bluing solution on blade using a rag

3. allow to dry and form crust

4. suspend blade in bleach for 30 min (used copper wire but if it makes a difference that difference is beyond by understanding:-)

5. Neutralize reaction using tap water and hose outside

6. 0000 steel wool all rust off and apply light coat of Break Free to blade
Click to expand...

Good job. Ithink the reasoning behind using copper wire is that it won't get eaten away during the etch and drop your blade, bro. I would use Windex to neutralize the etch... its the ammonia that does the trick. Water will dilute it but not neutralize. There could still be traces of the etchant in the rough surface that will rust your piece and compromise your handle bond. You can also boil the blade in water/baking soda.
 
Rick Marchand said:
You are right, BMK... it does say that it is waterproof on the site.... I know that it is not. Please test it and decide for yourself. What are you using to heat your blades?
Click to expand...

I have built sew and stitch kayaks and canoes using West System stuff - I know that is what you use and it is top quality adhesive. For some reason, I am drawn to Gorilla glue;-)

Thanks for your heat treat question. Part of my sophisticated system involves an oven in our kitchen and the other part (try not to cringe) is this:
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ps Almost forgot, a rare earth magnet and special canola oil

I hope i did not traumatize anyone with this information.

Go ahead, fire away - I have my kevlar vest on:-
 
BMK said:
Go ahead, fire away - I have my kevlar vest on:-
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LOL..... nice.

Is that the commercial package for LP tanks? I was looking for one of those for my mini-forge. Lots of flolks use torches to heat treat... I don't recommend it but if you use one, heat slowly and make sure you leave some stock on the edge... most folks overheat with a torch. If you intend to use a torch indefinitely, please consider using a different steel. O1, D2, 1095 and other alloyed steels require more involved heat treats. Not that you will have a bad performing knife, just paying for steel you can't use to full potential. 1070-84 can be had for cheap and will respond well to your methods. Unless you are getting your current steel at lower prices. Forgive my critique, I just see a fella who is driving a Ferrari V12 with only 6 spark plugs. Why not take those 6 plugs and put them in a Porsche 911 GT2 Flat-6?
 
Rick Marchand said:
LOL..... nice.

Is that the commercial package for LP tanks? I was looking for one of those for my mini-forge. Lots of flolks use torches to heat treat... I don't recommend it but if you use one, heat slowly and make sure you leave some stock on the edge... most folks overheat with a torch. If you intend to use a torch indefinitely, please consider using a different steel. O1, D2, 1095 and other alloyed steels require more involved heat treats. Not that you will have a bad performing knife, just paying for steel you can't use to full potential. 1070-84 can be had for cheap and will respond well to your methods. Unless you are getting your current steel at lower prices. Forgive my critique, I just see a fella who is driving a Ferrari V12 with only 6 spark plugs. Why not take those 6 plugs and put them in a Porsche 911 GT2 Flat-6?
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Thanks for your comments. I don't know if it's "commercial" or not. The tank stands about 3ft tall and I get it filled at a welding gas company. The blades I heat treat are small and if I did not feel confident heat treating them I would send them out. I do see an advantage to the torch method in that the time interval between critical temp and quench is reduced to almost zero. I don't know how fast one can open a forge door, grab the blade and quench it but I do know that temp bleeds off quickly and the torch is fast. A torch can also heat differentially which is not (easily) attainable in a forge. I have no studies that show that steel is agoraphobic and therefore prefers the claustraphobic confines of a forge but I could be mistaken.

thanks again

ps My favorite car is the 911
 
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BMK said:
Thanks for your comments. I don't know if it's "commercial" or not. The tank stands about 3ft tall and I get it filled at a welding gas company. The blades I heat treat are small and if I did not feel confident heat treating them I would send them out. I do see an advantage to the torch method in that the time interval between critical temp and quench is reduced to almost zero. I don't know how fast one can open a forge door, grab the blade and quench it but I do know that temp bleeds off quickly and the torch is fast. A torch can also heat differentially which is not (easily) attainable in a forge. I have no studies that show that steel is agoraphobic and therefore prefers the claustraphobic confines of a forge but I could be mistaken.

thanks again

ps My favorite car is the 911
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The one I saw fits with LP tanks and offers a larger flame than the BernzOmatic type but smaller than the 3/4 venturi. I didn't see the acetylene text on the package. Cool.

I don't think that heating the edge can be considered "differential" heat treat... more like "selective" HT. The difference being that in differential HT, two zones are hardened to varying degrees and in selective HT only one area is hardened. (which is what you are doing.) At no point did I come down on you for your heat treat method but rather, your steel choice. You are not taking advantage of the alloying that makes O1 such a great steel so why use it? The part about getting the steel from the forge to the quench as fast as you can is over-exagerated. Unless you are running across the room with your hot blade or HT'g infront of a fan, you have a good 3-4 second window. The critical part is once you hit that oil! You are correct, steel is not agoraphobic, but it is sensitive to time and temperature and a closed cavity, coated in refractory promotes even heating at more consistent temps. Have you ever thought about edge quenching?

I wish you would stop taking opinions and advice as an attack. This is a community of makers trying to help eachother out. These are just opinions. Accept or disregard... but please understand that most of us (you can easily discern between sarcasm and legit questioning) are sincere in our critiques and advice. Keep an open mind and take it all in.... options options options, bro.

Rick
 
Rick,

Thank you again. I appreciate your help and advice. I do not interpret your good will as an attack. I have a very dry sense of humor that can be interpreted as sarcasm. I respect and appreciate your advice.
 
I haven't been warming my blanks before blueing...I wonder if I should? I was just using cold-blueing on cold blanks, but if warming it a bit will help the etch then I'll try it. Your's darn sure turned out more even than mine. And I am having to do them for 3 or 4 sessions of 30 minutes each. Although I DID discover a neat trick today.... :) Gotta see how it turns out before I mention it. May be an unmitigated gofu, but it might work.
 
Especially in this pic, the bubling of the gorilla glue is evident.

Acraglass & west systems are so much better with long pot life and less mess.

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Especially when eyeballing temp, you can get better temperature indication,
Magnetic is low
some say kosher salt will melt at the right temp
I've used templaq sticks.
 
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