Just finished: Birdseye maple small skinner (heavy pics)

[MSCantrell]

Hey guys,
Just finished another (been on a roll this last week or so, finishing knives instead of starting them). It's a small skinner, full tang with birdseye maple scales.
I managed to snatch defeat from the jaws of victory on this one: cracked one of the scales while pinning it on. Was using 6-minute-set epoxy (don't ask ) so I couldn't even take 'em off and scrap them. To make it even better, I didn't mask the scales well enough when I etched it, and stained them pretty badly. Thought I might sell this one, but now that's out of the question. Guess I'll keep it.

On the bright side, this is the first time I edge-quenched and etched to show the hardening line. Came out well, I think.
Specs, then pics:
OAL 5.25"
Blade: 2.75"
Steel: 1095, edge quenched
Handle: Birdseye maple. Brass pins. Thong tube made from a spent .22 LR.

Thanks for looking!
Mike

 

[mete]

Running the grain sideways makes for a very interesting pattern. It's also nice that you haven't popped out the 'eyes' which can be a big problem with birdseye maple.

 

[forex]

Just finished another (been on a roll this last week or so, finishing knives instead of starting them).

Haha, sounds like you had my problem. Ive done 8 blades now and not a one finished knife! I have an excuse though, waiting on handle materials.

 

[Fred.Rowe]

Too bad on the split. It's a cute little blade. Try buffing the pins before you insert them. There is always some contaminate no matter what the material.
If you buff the rod before you cut the pins it is much easier. Clean with acetone or the like after buffing. They will slide rite in. If you have to peen the pins, wait until the epoxy sets up good.

Good Luck, Fred

 

[deker]

Looks pretty good overall. You might want to do your etching before attaching the scales to save the trouble of masking, etc.

-d

 

[blgoode]

nice distal taper. Has a good choke up grip I bet too!

 

[MSCantrell]

Thanks for the comments, guys!

BLGoode, it does choke up good. It think what I'll do is add a fairly fat lanyard so you don't necessarily have to choke up to get a good grip. Best of both, then.

Is it normal to etch first, then attach scales? I guess that would make more sense From time to time, I find out I'm still missing small bits of very important information.

Fred, I'll try buffing the pins next time. They never seem to go in smoothly for me, so I tend to avoid assembling and disassembling too many times (even though it would be better for the sake of fitting things). It's just too much hassle.

Advice and tips much appreciated!
Mike

 

[blgoode]

I etch first the attach scales. That way I can go back anf regrind if I see a deep scratch I missed. The etch will make the POP for sure!

 

[Azsoldier]

That is a cute little guy! Sell it, call it a second or gift it to a soldier as a hold out knife. I know a soldier would use it till it broke.

I know a good guy in the sand box right now...

 

[R.Coon-Knives]

Nice job on the hamon.

When you drill your holes for pins and lanyard tube be sure that you have the wood flat down on another flat piece of wood. That will support the wood and prevent the wood from chipping out around the edge of the hole you drilled.

Be careful when grinding down the pins that you don't get them hot and discolor the glue or burn the wood, particularly on light colored woods.

To etch a full tang knife I do the following:

Fit the wood on with temporary brass pins and glue with a little Elmers wood glue - just a few dots here and there. Clamp and leave overnight. The next day finish the handle shaping and sanding all around the periphery - don't worry about the flat area where the pins are. Knock out the temporary pins and tap the handle scales off carefully (usually not good with burl wood - only strong tight grained woods). Clean up and etch the knife. Re-attach the scales using your finish pins and epoxy glue. Let dry and finish the flat where the pins are.

I used to have trouble getting the scales back on exactly right because I had to sand down the temporary pins and the finish pins to get them through the holes. (Can't get a 1/4 inch piece of material through a 1/4 inch hole) This made them out of round and caused problems when doing the final assembly. Recently I got a 0.2517 reamer and make my pin holes that size after drilling them. That way I don't have to mess with the diameter of the pins - they stay round and everything goes back together just right. The gap is not noticeable.

If you have a countersink just lightly touch the inside of the lanyard hole brass. This takes that sharp inner edge off and has a nice look.

Nothing here meant as criticism - just trying to be helpful. When I started I would ask for constructive criticism and people would say "Oh, yeah, nice knife", which wasn't much help.