Just finished some Concealex Sheaths

[Daniel Fairly Knives]

I finished up a few Concealex Sheaths today. I came up with a nice alternative to a tek-lok with compatible spacing. These can be worn in about every configuration from a standard carry to upside down at an angle!


First some fun, this lighter sheath is compatible with smaller tek-lok spacing!

Here we go.

Imagine the possibilities!

 

[sloth357]

I think I get it and like it hehe.. so concealex is.. less porous? or just thinner and a different brand?? I need to get a kydex press or make one.. too many neckers w/o sheaths... keep it up Daniel

 

[Daniel Fairly Knives]

Here are a couple of big chopper sheaths with like features.

These are small and large tek-lok compatible in almost all positions. They work in most positions with the belt loop they come with.

another...

 

[Daniel Fairly Knives]

I think I get it and like it hehe.. so concealex is.. less porous? or just thinner and a different brand?? I need to get a kydex press or make one.. too many neckers w/o sheaths... keep it up Daniel

Just a different brand, you have a big chopper sheath made with it, lol. I realized I was using the term kydex like people say zerox instead of copy so I mentioned it. It is supposed to take form a little better and costs a tiny bit more but I really don't see much difference between the stock I have.

I make all my sheaths with a homemade press that consists of 2 pieces of 3/8" plywood and some blue foam (sleeping bag pad from wal mart) spray glued on. I use 1 layer for the back of the sheath to keep it a little flatter and two pieces for good definition in the front. The press doesn't have hinges, I just clamp everything together. PM me if you need any help, I am having great luck with the molding process.

Thanks! I'm glad you like 'em.

 

[AcridSaint]

So, are you screwing only to the rear holes and running a screwdriver through the front? How are the loops held together? Welded? Are you putting eyelets on the back side or just screwing down right to the kydex?

 

[K Robinson]

I have never worked with Concealex, is it comparable to Kydex, molding temps and such ? what is different ?
Nice work, keep it up.

 

[Kiah]

I have never worked with Concealex, is it comparable to Kydex, molding temps and such ? what is different ?
Nice work, keep it up.

Kinda. Kydex tends to curl just a bit on the ends. Concealex likes to roll itself up as much as possible. Temps are about the same. I don't care for it. While the numbers may be small, Kydex is still a superior material as far as impact resistance. The only real reason to choose Concealex is the texture, but Kydex can be ordered in the same texture if you don't mind buying a truckload. The "better form" is an optical illusion.

On that note CF Concealex is pure evil that was put on Earth for the sole purpose of irritating the bejeesus outta me.

 

[Kiah]

Oh and nice work Dan. I assume the sheaths are gonna get eyelets. Are the loop ends held together somehow?

 

[Daniel Fairly Knives]

Kiah, Thanks again for your help!

I made some improvements based on your suggestions.

 

[AcridSaint]

The reason I asked those questions is that the design that I gave in the inspiring thread has some reasons to it:

The loops are held together by eyelets not a plastic weld because the welds just aren't trustworthy, imo. This also allows you to heat and re-form to a specific belt without worrying about compromising the weld.

As far as screwing directly to the kydex, the kydex can tear out. This is why you want to have the screw head mate against an eyelet and you want the binding post on the loop. With thinner kydex, it's not a bad idea to have an eyelet on both the sheath and the loop so there is a sturdier place for the post to rest as well.

 

[Kiah]

Kiah, Thanks again for your help!

I made some improvements based on your suggestions.

You're welcome, brother.

 

[Daniel Fairly Knives]

The reason I asked those questions is that the design that I gave in the inspiring thread has some reasons to it:

The loops are held together by eyelets not a plastic weld because the welds just aren't trustworthy, imo. This also allows you to heat and re-form to a specific belt without worrying about compromising the weld.

As far as screwing directly to the kydex, the kydex can tear out. This is why you want to have the screw head mate against an eyelet and you want the binding post on the loop. With thinner kydex, it's not a bad idea to have an eyelet on both the sheath and the loop so there is a sturdier place for the post to rest as well.

Thank you very much for taking the time to help me out. This information will help out my sheath making quite a lot!

You're welcome, brother.

With your help my sheaths are safer and you gave me some great ideas for improvement.

 

[sloth357]

I guess my only question is.. that loop is for belt? then the back of the loop has four holes for.. a teklok? so then it will be kind of dangling out far? no? I might just use the belt loop. Are the holes on the sheath space for a teklok to fit directly to that without the concealex loop part?? if that all makes sense! tis 9:58pm here and I'm a bit tired and buzzed *_*

 

[Daniel Fairly Knives]

I guess my only question is.. that loop is for belt? then the back of the loop has four holes for.. a teklok? so then it will be kind of dangling out far? no? I might just use the belt loop. Are the holes on the sheath space for a teklok to fit directly to that without the concealex loop part?? if that all makes sense! tis 9:58pm here and I'm a bit tired and buzzed *_*

The holes are for a screwdriver to go through to adjust the belt loop.

You can take off the loop and use a tek-lok instead but the loop pretty much does it all. A tek lok will be more secure because it locks but these offer a lot of options.

All the holes are spaced to be compatible with the tek lok or the loop. You can use the sheath in an upright position, angled, sideways, upside down, upside down at angle...

You could also add on fire striker loops or whatever you can think of with like spacing.