Just getting into this, some basic questions

M

MrXshun

Joined
Apr 17, 2022
Messages
2
Hello all. I bought some axe heads here and there a few years back with the intention of finding a nice FSS stamped Pulaski, and mating with a hatchet for my Jeep, as I do a lot of crazy rock crawling and offroading combined with bush camping. I like the pulaski for the needs there, but wanted to restore something special. I've come across a Barco FSS in good shape, but it's not stamped into the steel, just printed on the side. I'm assuming this means it wasn't that old. I'm curious if this is one I should put the time into, or if I should wait to find something actually stamped. I like the idea of achieving a nice mirror finish, but with the stamp visible.

Also, I understand the Black Prince's are a good axe head. I have an extremely nice one that doesn't even look used, with light surface rust. It's stamped True Temper on top, and Black Prince below. Any idea of the age and value? Are these one of the top heads, which is what I have read? I'm not looking to sell, just want to know what I have and people's opinions on these.

Also, I bought a cheap amazon machete for clearing small branches and twigs when going through bush and when cutting up fallen trees for firewood, and was surprised at how much I was using this. I was also surprised, despite how well this piece of junk worked, how quick it broke in two. I'd like to find a well made machete to restore as well, and curious what I should be looking for.

thanks for any help!
 
What's your definition of restoration?
What kind of time do you imagine putting in, is your idea of restoration sanding and polishing and making it look how you assume it would look new or just wire wheeling the rust off and putting it back in service?
For a vintage machete you'll want to look at a Collins legitimus, new just get a good Tramontina or imicasa.

The barco is definitely not very old, likely on par with current Council tools but not as good as a much older vintage example.
 
I was to grind/file/sand a good example of an FSS pulaski and a hatchet to a near mirror finish, new handles, and maybe do a little engraving in the heads to personalization. I'm watched a lot of vids on people doing this, and want to practice on some not so great heads first.

I'm not sure what to do with the Black Prince, as I understand they are fairly rare. I want to bring it down to a mirror finish, but not do any engraving.

I'll post some pics, but I can't seem to figure out how. I also have a Norlund I'm curious about.
 
Just FYI, we can talk all day about rarity and age, condition and restoration. But before we can talk about value, you need to upgrade your membership to gold level (which also allows you to sell items).

Value information is available elsewhere online if you prefer, but this forum’s rules limit pricing and selling to gold members or above.

Very likely any collector interest in your axes hinges on them being in original condition. Mirror polishing will be a deal breaker for collectors. Not saying don’t do it, if you like it, just that original ones fill collections.

Carry on.

Parker
 
The Barco will serve you well enough. It is made to the FSS spec after all. If it's mounted on the outside of a jeep I would consider painting it to protect against rust.

Depending on where you are geographically you might easily come across a nicer finished head than the Barco. Barco's are the roughest finished of the heads I usually come across.
It might not make any difference to you if your going to alter it any way.

The FSS stamped heads or those from the same time period are my preferred users because they have longer bits and a longer wider adze. It seems the pattern evolved through the years.
 
I'd suggest waiting on doing anything with the Black Prince. It's special. Put it away and come back to it later.

And regarding the machete, this is wayy out of my knowledge-based (as is, well, everything), but I'd suggest looking into ontario knife company. Local (to me), amazing history (produced iconic pieces for the military) and extremely high quality for the price.
 
Old Axeman said:
Only reason to polish any axe to a mirror finish is if it is a timber sports competition axe. No reason to polish a vintage axe to mirror finish.
Click to expand...

Bernie, it's humbling to be on the same forum with you. I respect the hell out of you and appreciate everything that you've done and continue to do.

I'll offer my reason to go through the exercise. As an exercise. The reasoning for the specific axe and pics live here: https://www.instagram.com/p/CGsY1auhtCA/

But, what I learned from sanding by hand an old solid piece of medal for 10+ hrs (middle of the night, raising kids, all in the Instagram post) at increasing fineness is appreciation of the tool. And varying qualities of sand paper. The makeup of the medal. And the amount of work thumbs do.

There is also the rust resistance and theoretical lack of friction, but to the spirit of your point, those things are minimal.

Thanks again for everything Bernie.
 
Glenn, it is true what you say about the increased rust resistance and lack of friction. Lack of friction is the reason I polished my racing axes. I just want people to think twice before changing a nice old classic axe any more than to wire brush off the rust and sharpen with files and stones, and if necessary, rehang. As for polishing I used sanding compounds applied to a buffing wheel.

My favorite machete is a "Ontario Knife Co. U.S" that I got 56 years ago.
 
Last edited:
Old Axeman said:
Glenn, it is true what you say about the increased rust resistance and lack of friction. Lack of friction is the reason I polished my racing axes. I just want people to think twice before changing a nice old classic axe any more than to wire brush off the rust and sharpen with files and stones, and if necessary, rehang. As for polishing I used sanding compounds applied to a buffing wheel.

My favorite machete is a "Ontario Knife Co. U.S" that I got 66 years ago.
Click to expand...
Agreed. I put a lot of thought into my choice and I personally got a lot out of the experience (and will never do it again!). Here is the text from my Instagram post. I'm not finding an easy way to transfer pics without just sending the link.

"This beauty is a Beast! A 3.66 pound (originally 4 pounds) Rixford R46 on a 27" beefy heartwood/sapwood combo haft. Story below, but all you need to know is that this beasts splits with thunder!!

When I first got this axe, maybe a year ago, I really liked most of it's overall characteristics, but the more time I spent thinking about how I was going to use it, it bugged me. The bit profile had flat spots. The grind was uneven (dramatically different angles either side). It had bench grinder marks for at least an inch up one side. The patina was slightly, but noticeably, different on each side. I'd study it and began to hate it.

Next time I'd picked it up I'd think "I'm soo petty, this is a great axe!" But I knew I had to re-profile. I needed to get rid of those bench grind marks. I knew I had to fix the uneven grind. I watch all those videos of 'mirror finish' axes. I decided to commit to my first 'shining'. So I fixed the bit with a file, and sanded by hand for about 10 hours (in the middle of the night when the kids were asleep over 2 months). And it's finally transformed into something pretty special."
 
MrXshun said:
I was to grind/file/sand a good example of an FSS pulaski and a hatchet to a near mirror finish, new handles, and maybe do a little engraving in the heads to personalization. I'm watched a lot of vids on people doing this, and want to practice on some not so great heads first.

I'm not sure what to do with the Black Prince, as I understand they are fairly rare. I want to bring it down to a mirror finish, but not do any engraving.

I'll post some pics, but I can't seem to figure out how. I also have a Norlund I'm curious about.
Click to expand...
My opinion is to think before you proceed.

Polishing up a vintage tool is not a restoration it's a modification and customization.
I know of no axes of the past that came polished to a mirror shine aside from aluminum ceremonial axes, a true restoration would be putting it back to the condition it would have come new, but a tool is only new once.

I know all these YouTube videos and sellers of " custom " axes with funky handles may make polishing up a vintage axe seem like the thing to do, but the best thing is a rehabilitation and or conservation.
Just wire wheel the rust off, put a haft and appropriate edge on it, and call it good
You plan to use the tool after all, that mirror finish is just wasted effort and is just not true to the legacy of these tools and the men who used them for a living.
Best to keep the tool honest for the honest work you plan for it.

Patina helps prevent new rust too, of course oil is your friend but bright clean steel rusts easy.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top