Just getting started

Chris Montgomery

Chris Montgomery

Joined
Dec 8, 2011
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2,183
My name is Chris. I got started making knives and forging 2 1/2 years ago. I have wanted to try my hand at forging some axes. My first attempt was a hawk, while successful it is not pretty so I will forgo showing it here. I have been forging them by hand from mild steel with a 5160 bit forge welded in. The first one is 2lb2oz with an 18" hickory handle.

The second one is 1lb11oz on a 14" hickory handle.

I know I have plenty of room for improvement but I have been very impressed with how these little axes cut. I have one more in the works that will be my first full finished axe, no forge scale or hammer marks. Feel free to comment and critique, I can only improve by knowing what needs work.

Thanks in advance Chris.
 
Sorry. Couldn't get images to work. Let me try again. The first one.
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The second one.
9232386961_58ab248cba_z.jpg

9235162906_a61dca1148_z.jpg

Sorry for the poor images from my phone.

Chris
 
I like that second one alot! Did you shape the handles by hand or did you use a machine? You can tell both of them are no-nonsense working tools. I wouldn't mind seeing the hawk either, no matter how ugly. I'm a big hawk fan.
 
I bought the first one from a hardware store. The second one I was given a plank of kiln dried hickory. I used my belt grinder to shape it. Thanks for the kind response.

Chris
 
Those look great, Chris. Can't wait to see more of your work. I'd also be very interested to learn more about your construction methods and process because by the looks of the finished product you're definitely doing something right
 
Thanks Dick. The second one is going to a sheath maker I am sure you know, David Seward. I believe he is or has done some sheaths for you. I would be glad to share my methods. Feel free to shoot me an email. cmont1@hotmail.com congrats again on making JS.

Chris
 
Thanks Chris. David does terrific work - I'm sure you'll be very pleased.
Again, those axes look great!
 
Are you slitting and drifting those or wrapping and welding? I bet drifting. Power hammer or hand hammered?
 
If you could show some more pictures from different perspectives they always help in getting a more complete idea of the axe. My first impression of the axe head was that the forging looked so clean, that is uniform and subdued, very nice. On the level of critique, to my eye the lug is not so interesting being just a section of a circle. Perhaps you could tighten the radius towards the middle for example or taper it in the thickness out near the edges. What a big difference between the manufactured handle and the self made handle as well.

E.DB.
 
Dick, I should have worded that better. Both are getting leather by David but the second one is his for backpacking and hiking.

James, thanks for the complement. I know you forge a lot, so that makes me feel good.

Square-Peg, they are wraped and welded all by hand hammer. I have only acted as striker for Lin Rhea once on a slit and drift project. It was on a hammer forging demo at Jimmy Crowell's shop visit. Thanks for the complement.


Ernest, thanks for the critique. I appreciate the feedback and complement. I will try to get some more pics and will use your advice on future projects.

Chris
 
That is amazing work for your first couple of axes. Since I follow the axiom that form follows function, what is the purpose of the lug?
 
Chris,
Very good looking hatchet. I think many people like the scale and hammer marks finish better.

Since I follow the axiom that form follows function, what is the purpose of the lug?
Click to expand...
I may be wrong - believe the "ears" or lugs provide better support for the head on the haft without adding much weight. I like the way they look also.
 
Great job Chris! I'm lookin' forward to playing with 'em. Lin Rhea has taught you well. Your a credit to your teacher.
Ben
 
Bo T said:
That is amazing work for your first couple of axes. Since I follow the axiom that form follows function, what is the purpose of the lug?
Click to expand...

More surface area means more friction means the head stays on the handle more solidly.
 
I'm new to the forum, and I HATE for this to be my first post, but surface area does not increase friction force. Frictional force is purely friction coefficient multiplied by the perpendicular force. In this case that would mean the pressure from the wedge, and the roughness of the inside of the eye (of both the wood and steel).

The added surface area will reduce the pressure inside the eye, which should prolong the handle life though!

Also, these are some beautiful axes, makes me want to get a forge (but mine probably wouln't turn out so nice). Have you considered making a more American pattern, like a Dayton? Your skills could probably make the simple pattern look CLEAN.

I like myself a little less after posting this, but my OCD feels better. Sorry.

Jon
 
Jon - So are you saying that all else being equal, if that eye was 1" wide versus, say three or four inches, that it would hold on as well? Seems counter-intuitive to me but that doesn't mean I'm right. Seems like the same amount of frictional force applied over 1" square is going to easier to overcome and slide than if it had 5 square inches to grip. Five times easier.

Perhaps I worded the first statement wrong? Or am I just flat-out wrong? Physics was not my strong suit.
 
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