Just got a Wicked Edge. Looking for some help

[jdj211]

So I have a bunch of questions. I tried to sharpen my Ontario Rat-1 for my first attempt, and it was very successful. Next, I went to my Umnumzaan, and the results, while still good, were not great. The tip has this weird shape to it, and the very end section of the bevel near the heel is shorter, i.e. a lower angle. Here are pics of the two flaws I have just described. http://imgur.com/a/hAYQ9 (I still can't attach pics btw, if anyone could help with that it would be greatly appreciated)
Would I be correct in assuming that moving the blade back would alleviate those problems? The bevel is set at 18 degrees and I used the top spot on the vise.
This leads to my next question, how do you determine whether to use the top or bottom spot on the vise? Once I am satisfied with my Umnumzaan, my SMF is next. Since it is such a wide blade, would it go on the bottom spot? What if I wanted to do my Busse TGLB? Would that even be possible? I have more questions, but I can't think of them at the moment. I appreciate any help you can provide.

 

[cbwx34]

I can't totally tell from your pictures what you're seeing, so my answer may be a bit general. If on the tip, it's because the bevel gets smaller?... moving the knife forward will adjust for that. This webpage, on how to adjust for the tip should help...
http://wickededgeusa.com/index.php?...front-to-back&catid=38:instructions&Itemid=81

As for the heel, again I'm not sure, but I think it's because the choil actually widens as it approaches the edge. I sharpen it (Wicked Edge or not) by just working the area until it's thinned out, which usually results in a slightly wider bevel in that area, but it's sharp. Or you can sharpen so the bevel is even, but you'll have a small area near the heel that is dull (which it may have been to begin with?) Moving the blade forward or back won't affect this area.

As for top or bottom holes... the WE is 'calibrated' for a knife that is approx. 5/8 inch above the clamp, so you want to use the holes that comes closest to that. If a blade is really wide (or small), it's better to set that angle with an angle gauge, or by using the "Sharpie" method.

Hope that helps.

 

[jdj211]

I can't totally tell from your pictures what you're seeing, so my answer may be a bit general. If on the tip, it's because the bevel gets smaller?... moving the knife forward will adjust for that. This webpage, on how to adjust for the tip should help...
http://wickededgeusa.com/index.php?...front-to-back&catid=38:instructions&Itemid=81

As for the heel, again I'm not sure, but I think it's because the choil actually widens as it approaches the edge. I sharpen it (Wicked Edge or not) by just working the area until it's thinned out, which usually results in a slightly wider bevel in that area, but it's sharp. Or you can sharpen so the bevel is even, but you'll have a small area near the heel that is dull (which it may have been to begin with?) Moving the blade forward or back won't affect this area.

As for top or bottom holes... the WE is 'calibrated' for a knife that is approx. 5/8 inch above the clamp, so you want to use the holes that comes closest to that. If a blade is really wide (or small), it's better to set that angle with an angle gauge, or by using the "Sharpie" method.

Hope that helps.

Thanks for that. In the tip, the edge isn't a straight line. It bumps out at the very tip

 

[REK Knives]

I can see that if I look closely at the first picture... That's really weird, don't know how that happened. I would suggest that you take a 600 grit stone perpendicular to your edge and flatten that area out. Then you can actually go back and sharpen it without that weird bump.

 

[jdj211]

I can see that if I look closely at the first picture... That's really weird, don't know how that happened. I would suggest that you take a 600 grit stone perpendicular to your edge and flatten that area out. Then you can actually go back and sharpen it without that weird bump.

I resharpened it from 200 up through 1500 and then stropped. It fixed the shape, but the grind lines are still funky. I think it was caused by my technique.

 

[jdj211]

My strops are leaving a lot of residue on the blade. Can anybody direct me to instructions on how to clean and reapply the strop paste?

 

[cbwx34]

I saw the bump (after you pointed it out). Sounds like you got it figured out.

You shouldn't need to clean and reapply the paste... just sounds like you got a little too much on? One suggestion that I now use, is to use just a little rubbing alcohol (I do a light spray from a spray bottle) and it rubs the paste into the leather better. You can rub it in with your fingers, or rub the two corresponding grits together. (Just make sure you don't cross contaminate them).

 

[jdj211]

I saw the bump (after you pointed it out). Sounds like you got it figured out.

You shouldn't need to clean and reapply the paste... just sounds like you got a little too much on? One suggestion that I now use, is to use just a little rubbing alcohol (I do a light spray from a spray bottle) and it rubs the paste into the leather better. You can rub it in with your fingers, or rub the two corresponding grits together. (Just make sure you don't cross contaminate them).

I tried rubbing them together. I even warmed them up a little first. I guess I just used too much. I put a little alcohol on them and rub them together again.