Just got my first Opinel, how should I take care of it?

D

davide

Joined
Apr 5, 2009
Messages
267
The opinel I ordered came in the mail today. Now I can see why they have copies of these in the MoMa. What a great design and a great blade. Everything from the shape of the handle to the way that the bolster clicks when it locks just exudes character.

I got the number 9 in carbon steel, which is advertised as being about 3 1/2 on Ben's Backwoods but my measurements show it to be 3 and 3/8. In any case everything about this blade just make me want to start cutting open baguettes and spreading butter over them.

Since I do plan on using this knife a lot I was wondering what are the best methods for taking care of it and keeping it from rusting? I was hoping to use this as a food knife so it'll probably be going through acidic things and being run under water a fair amount. Also I live in NYC which is a fairly humid environment already. What type of oil should I put on it? And should I rinse the oil off before using the knife for food?

Also, what type of sharpening equipment would you recommend?

Edit: At first I thought that the two-handed opening would be a downer. But there's something so deliberate and slow about it that I really dig taking the time to open it with two hands and then engage the lock. It reminds me of why I switched to shaving old-style with soap and a brush. It takes longer but the process is half the fun.

thanks,
davide
 
Moving to appropriate forum...

I use food grade (pharmaceutical) mineral oil on the wood handle and occasionally on the blades of my Opinels. It lubricates and protects and is safe for ingestion.

Any hone will work on the steel of an Opinel. Natural stones, ceramic, diamond etc. If you have a decent edge on, it's easy to maintain with a ceramic hone which will help keep a fine edge.
 
Oops, looks like I got ahead of myself and put this in the wrong forum. Thanks for the tips. Is the mineral oil to keep the handles from becoming water logged and expanding? Where do you get your oil? At a hardware store or online?
 
davide,

pure mineral oil of this sort is universally available at any druggist or walmart store (or similar). (it is sold as a laxative in the pharmacy area.)

the oil keeps the wood supple (think of furniture) and from drying out over time. i haven't had any waterlogging issues with mine but they haven't been soaked either.

the oil is very cheap. a one pint bottle is a couple of bucks and lasts a long, long time.
 
Give the handle a light sanding with 200 to 300 paper, and get most of the factory finish off. Finish off with 500 grit paper, including down in the blade slot. Don't miss the end grain at the top of the knife by the bolster. Put some masking or duct tape on the blade so you don't cut yourself, and wrap some paper around a popsicle stick or butter knife blade, and get around the blade pivot area as much as you can. Then give it a thin coat of Helmsman Spar Urathane. Use a pipe cleaner to get down around the blade pivot. Open the blade to 90 degrees to get in front and in back of it. Let dry. Give a real light sanding with 500 paper and another light coat of spar urathane. Let dry and set for a few days.

Finaal step; tear out a paper match from a book, and put a little grease on the tip of the match. This can be Crisco, Vasoline, or such. Now work the grease around the blade pivot area to lube and waterseal. Wipe off excess.

You now have an Opinel that will stand up to several minutes of total submergence in water. This method was given to me by real French people who came over to visit a friend of mine who is French, and they do this. It does work, even if it seems a little outside the box.

Opinels are great knives!

To add; If it does get stiff to open, do the knock. There is a technique for opening water stiffened Opys. Turn the knife over, with the top of the closed blade down, and holding the knife by the bolster. Now, sharply knock the tip of the flared butt against any hard surface. Table, tree trunk, boot heel. This will cause the blade to come partly open, enough so you can get a good pinch grip on it. I think they show this on thier website.
 
Submerge the blade in vinegar overnight then let it dry being very careful not to touch it.

After a day or two air drying it, lube it with baby oil.
 
I sanded the handle to remove the factory finish and sealed the handle with tung oil. Then, I sprayed the pivot area with a dry graphite lubricant spray which I discovered helps resist water as well. The knife can now stand a dunking and have no stiffness where as before it swelled up like a balloon after a quick wash.
 
davide said:
What does the vinegar do? Take impurities off the blade?
Click to expand...
A carbon blade will turn color from cutting acidic foods, this is a patina.
This is a normal process with carbon blades

A patina is a protection against rusting.
A clean dry blade is a better protection.
And a wipe down with a thin coating of edible oil that Blue has told you to buy, will futher protect the blade from rust.

Dipping it in vinegar forces a patina.
Whether yes to force a patina is an esoteric discussion unto Knife Knuts
And the different methods are an Alchemy unto itself!!
 
I new I was forgetting something mineral on the handle! I've been enjoying mine so much I forgot about the beautiful beachwood handle. Mine did a great job on some summer sausage last week! These things are wonderful!
 
Heh, I guess I never got mine wet. I have oiled the handle once though. I mostly just wipe the blade off after use.

Yeah, they are a great little knife. I love the thin carbon steel blade.

Gary
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top