just got some sheath stuff!

[blgoode]

I am lucky enough to have a leather supply house 4 miles off my route to work so I stopped by. Got a mess of stuff. 7/8 oz leather and thread and a stitch wheel, and stitch gouge. I'll get the glue and v gough later.

Do I need rubber cement or contact cement?...thinner?


Thanks for any hints.
I'll have to let someone post the picture sometime next month...good or bad!

 

[Bruce Bump]

You need "BARGE" cement. it works good. contact cement doesnt dry hard enough.

I use a drill press with an awl to drill the holes for stitching.

 

[Marcel J.B. Morin]

Hey Bruce:
where do I get Barge cement? Thanks.

Marcel

 

[Bruce Bump]

http://www.helby.com/html/barge_cement.html This is their website. They are wholesale only otherwise your local Tandy store should have the stuff. It is expensive to ship because of Hazordous Material code.

 

[leatherman]

Hi again blgoode,
As far as the glue is concerned I tend to go with either Barge or a good Contact cement. The contact cement I use now will rip the leather before it will release contact. 3M makes a good cement at a reasonable price, and no hazardous shipping, you can get it at WalMart. Barge is expensive and not all that much better than a good contact cement, with you just starting I would suggest the contact cement at first, you can get a small bottle for a couple a bucks at Wally World. Just avoid Rubber Cement as it doesnt hold well at all, its messy and its just not worth the trouble.

Hope this helps, and I hope I didnt step on any toes here, I've just been at this for a good many years and tried it all.

 

[blgoode]

Wally-World it is. This will help my pocket book too !

 

[Dan Gray]

I use duco cement, retails about $2.50 a tube and the tube is pointed
so you can put it where you want it.
it's a cement I use also for the fletching my arrows
and it dries very fast,, less then a min.
you'll have to cut it apart or tear your leather up
taking it a part.

 

[blgoode]

Where did you get that glue?

 

[Dan Gray]

B E Atlas 1-800-305-4393
www.beatlas.com

I buy it as a dealer By The case
so I'm not sure if you can get it from them.
the bow shops should have it.

I can let you have a tube for $1.50
but the shipping will kill the deal on it.
priority shipping w/confirmation runs $4.30

 

[blgoode]

Just made up a quick stitch pony.....should be fine for the first go around. Now back to the knife!!!

 

[John Andrews]

Dan is right about the fletching cement! I have fletched a lot of arrows for a now gone shop my buddies owned up until last year. I use the Ross brand contact cement from Wallyworld for my leather, and patching pocket holes, etc.You ever get a hole in pants pocket that the iron on patches won't hold? Use the contact cement with a small patch of cloth. I carry a lot of keys, Leatherman, etc., in the cheap pockets of my work BDU's. Good stuff, and cheap. I use the contact cement on my leather washer handles, and my sheath maker uses it on all his leather work where a glue is needed.

 

[blgoode]

are you saying just to try the Wally word stuff?

 

[Dan Gray]

if you want it done fast cement it
if you're in no hurry use the contact cement
try both or something else
and see what you like,,, that's what it's all about guy..

 

[helmar45789]

Over the years I have used a variety of products with an adhesive nature. I've used hide glue, Duco cement, various contact cements, flammable and non-flammable types by Dap, Weldwood, Barge and even liquid nails. All seem to do what is expected of them which is to hold the materials together until they can be stitched and never consider the bond as a structural feature. The speed of the set is not of prime importance to me as I generally have sheaths in various degrees of construction which can utilize my time. Lately I find that I turn more often to the original formula Weldwood Contact Cement. I apply light coats of the cement on both pieces to be joined and when dry (only a few minutes) I apply a second light coat and let dry again until cement loses its "wet" look. Make sure the pieces to be joined are lined up before joining as the grip will be quite firm. Use the cement sparingly and you will get minimum extrusion when compressed by tight stitching. When this occurs on the welted edge of the sheath it will seriously affect the burnish unless you first remove that excess by erasing. The rubber eraser on an ordinary pencil will do a fine job if done carefully. Ventilation is more important than type of adhesive in my book. Some of the contacts can be downright nasty and give very little warning of impending danger. Sandy

 

[blgoode]

this helps alot. Seems the key is to use the cement thin and count on the stitch for strength. Thanks!