Just got the diamond sticks for my sharpmaker

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Nov 6, 2005
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and used them to sharpen my CRKT M16. It won't cut newspaper hanging loose anymore, it kind of grabs and rips the paper. I think this is correct though as the edge is toothy now. So that's about right. Right?

I got some kind of rubbing compound paste that the guy at the cutlery shop told me to squeeze out onto a dish towel and put it on the corner of my kitchen counter and then rub the side of my blade against the towel/compound and kind of lean into it to clean off the surface rust. He said it would act like a very fine grinding compound. Then I used some generic gun oil and sprayed it onto a corner of the dishrag and wiped it on the blade to give it a light coat. It seemed to work fine. Two minutes of work and the blade was clean and shiny, and ten seconds of oil/rag and it had a protective coat on it. Today was about a hundred degrees and I used it a couple times and no rust spots today. A little pocket lint on the blade but no big deal. Is that about what I should expect?

That said, what should I now do to test the edge I have? What should a diamond sharpened blade cut through properly? I tried cutting through the cheap plastic handle of a thing of cat litter that was sitting in the corner... I don't know how to evaluate it though, it cut through the handle without a whole lot of sawing and BS so that's OK as far as it goes. But how should it work?

Also, can anyone recommend a good book on knife sharpening to me? I have exactly zero experience and am kind of flying blind. I would like to educate myself on the topic and not feel like I'm just buying junk and screwing up my knives.

I have a decent $15 Sarco khukri and don't want to blow through my $60 diamond sticks to get it sharpened. That would be quite the stupid move. I'd be better off throwing it out the window and spending $85 on a himalaya imports Khukri that's already sharp and save myself the aggravation, you know? The blade on the Khukri isn't sharp at all, it's more rounded. It would mash a banana before it cut through the skin. The last $15 khukri I had I took to a sharpener and he apparently sharpened it with a belt sander and ruined the temper of the steel. I don't want to do that again. Any suggestions? Should I just use the diamond sticks and figure they'll survive the job?

Thank you for any replies, I like this forum and read it regularly in a vain attempt to get myself up to speed.
 
A diamond sharpened blade just had more of a toothy edge, just like an edge made with other corse abrasives.

The diamond rods are used to reprofile a blade, then you go back and use the medium, then hone with the fine. I have the diamond rods, they are great. I would recomend using the 15 15 setting all the way up to the fine, and then put a 20 20 primary bevel using the fine stones.

Iwould also suggest rigging it up to do some thing like a 10 10, and then 15 15 primary bevel, even though I have not done this yet. It hink I might try it with my bm 42 when i get it.
 
That's exactly what diamond hones are for. Bear in mind that diamond is significantly harder than steel. Those hones should take a very long time to wear out, especially on the softer steels used in cheaper knives. Trust me, you'll get your money's worth out of them, but only if you actually use them!
 
Peak_Oil said:
It won't cut newspaper hanging loose anymore, it kind of grabs and rips the paper. I think this is correct though as the edge is toothy now. So that's about right. Right?

Really coarse edges can smoothly slice newspaper, they can even push cut them, they should also shave readily.

What should a diamond sharpened blade cut through properly?

Diamond sharpening abrasives come in a very wide range from the x-x-coarse DMT to sub micron honing compounds finer than the finest japanese waterstone. In general as you lower the finish knives cut well on a draw through ropes, cardboard, tomatos, crusty breads, etc. . They don't do well push cutting the same materials. Some materials like wood are mainly push cut and thus work better with a higher polish.

Also, can anyone recommend a good book on knife sharpening to me?

http://users.ameritech.net/knives/index.htm

I have a decent $15 Sarco khukri and don't want to blow through my $60 diamond sticks to get it sharpened.

Buy a large bastard file and $2 x-coarse/fine stone at a hardware store.

-Cliff
 
I got some kind of rubbing compound... surface rust. ... Today was about a hundred degrees and I used it a couple times and no rust spots today.

Is your M-16 the aluminum handled one or the plastic handled one? The former is Aus-8 and the latter Aus-4. Aus-8 is pretty good in terms of corrosion resistance, Aus-4 even more so. I used to oil my stainless steels from time to time, but don't anymore as corrrosion is never a problem (except the rough tang area of an ATS-34 blade). I don't even oil my carbon-steel Opinel anymore. If I enjoy a good dinner for an hour or two with the Opinel as a table knife it'll get some black spots but no rust.

If corrosion has been a problem for you, what have you been cutting? Is the humidity high as well?

PS: I bead-blasts are your enemy!
 
New diamond sticks are pretty rough and they have to be broke in. You will take a lot more metel off with them and they will leave a rougher edge. I suggest you sharpen all of your less desireable knives first working your way up to your best.

sog
 
I have only sharpened three knives with the diamond stones and could not get them to shave, if memory serves me correct.

I might have to go try now LOL
 
I'm pretty sure diamond-sharpened knives are still way too coarse to shave. They can probably rip hair, but that's probably it. Shaving is something you use a fine edge for; coarse edges are for slicing.

You'll have to hone with the "coarse" and fine ceramic stones before you can shave, and you'll want to go extra fine and/or strop if you want to shave really well.
 
kennyj said:
I'm pretty sure diamond-sharpened knives are still way too coarse to shave.

I have not used the Spyderco diamond rods, but have used a large number of Diamond abrasives from x-coarse to x-fine DMT, they can all be made to shave readily if the edge is properly deburred.

-Cliff
 
Spyderco's diamond rods are, from everything I've read, x-coarse. IIRC, Spyderco's own literature points to them as being meant for aggressive cutting and reprofiling.

Shame that they don't sell a "deluxe" pack including these and the x-fine hones... even though I've moved to sandpaper for reprofiling, I'm probably still going to get the other Sharpmaker hones. In a few paychecks... those diamond hones are expennnnsive.
 
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