Just how durable is DuraCoat?

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Jan 27, 2012
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I get asked this question all the time: How durable is a DuraCoat coating on a knife?
I think there is a misconception that it is like any other paint -- like a Rustoleum or Krylon. Not so. But how to show it?

Well, a situation came up. I did some work on a BK-9 -- de-ramped, choiled, butt shaved...and DuraCoated to what I'd hoped would make it look like the blade was made out of diamond plate. Well, the end result didn't meet my standards and I decided to "erase" the DuraCoat in the blast cabinet, but then thought this would be the perfect opportunity to put it through it's paces and see how the coating holds up. If it doesn't -- no big deal, I'm gonna erase it anyway.
So, he're the test subject, Diamond Niner:

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Now -- what to do to it to test what Beckerheads would say was a typical life? First, ya gotta carry it somehow, and since the stock sheaths are marginal many opt for a Kydex sheath. OK, so I can't "JUST" do a Kydex sheath, it has to be special. This one is half black Kydex and half translucent Hostex. There may be others out there, but I haven't come across them. So this is DN's new home, and will be even when this coating job will be just a memory. I have to say there is ZERO rattle with this baby -- it is a snug fit.


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So-o-o, what will using abrasive Kydex/Holstex do to the coating? While watching TV last night I sat there and sheathed and unsheathed DN until my wife told me to stop. :rolleyes: It was at least 50 times. This next photo shows the result. Right along the intersection of the high points you can see faint rub marks. Also, you can see the marks on the inner surface of the sheath. The marks rubbed through the "design" but not the base coat.

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So what else do Beckerheads use their -9's for? Why, chopping, of course! I had just the specimen. During that freek Halloween snowstorm that knocked out power to much of Southern New England for more than a week, a large maple in my front yard lost many huge limbs. I'd dragged them away at the time, but they have been sitting, waiting to be converted to firewood for the last seven months, getting harder and harder. I picked one about 7" in diameter, held it up with the tractor loader bucket, and started to wail away at it.

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I learned that I love axes, and I REALLY love chainsaws! :D Twelve minutes later I was through. No visible damage to the blade that didn't rinse off with a little spit.

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So far, so good. Now the real test of a coating -- batoning. That required a short trip to the woodpile.
Shown is the ultimate chopper resting on top of the ultimate splitter! He's called Brutus. That's an electric crane on the back to lift the big pieces and swing them in front of the ram.

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Find a suitable-sized log and start wailing away. This stuff is green red oak. Nasty stuff.

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OK, this isn't a giant test of the durability of a -9, it just to test the coating, remember. After splitting a fire-sized pile I decided to check how we're doing.

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While not extraordinary, we now have visible damage.

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Yes. It did mark up the DuraCoat. But to be fair, given those same logs the original factory coating would be a mess, and the new factory coating would be covered in wood mash. Batoning is brutal stuff. I'll stick with Brutus for the splitting job, although I have to say a -9 is markedly more transportable!

So there you have it. Pretty much what I'd expected, and I hope I educated a couple of folks about the strengths and weaknesses of DuraCoating.

-K9
 
Beautiful pictures. I'd love to rock that 9! I think the paint job is sweet and the sheath is so cool! Thanks for the pics.
 
Great post K9..

While I don't thinks it's as tough as Cerakote, Duracoat (Polane T) is WAY,WAY tougher than any rattle can paint.

And your post pics show it. ;)

Good job!
 
I need Brutus. Those are the handiest things in the world if u use wood heat!

The duracoat did hold up pretty well, better then the old-style factory coating for sure
 
Well, I've been tossing the idea around of having some duracoating done on one of my blades. I hardly ever baton wood and almost never chop with my blades, so I'm thinking this coating might very well be suitable for my needs. Now I just have to figure out color, patterns, etc.

Thanks for this write-up K9-H. This is certainly food for thought.
 
Looks great. I am inspired to start messing with some duracoat myself. Thanks for testing and sharing.

Dax
 
That looks really tough K9! Patina and cliching aside (and I would want to try them too!), I think a re-coat of this sort helps immensely in keeping the blades a low maintenance as possible.
 
Great looking knife.

How long did you let the Duracoat cure for before testing it? The longer it cures, the mo better it is supposed to last. I did my shotgun in it, and let it cure room temp for 2 months. Seems pretty durable, but I don't baton wood with my 870.
 
That's a sweet niner rig you have there! A buddy of mine builds AR's and dura coats them. We have used and abused them and the finish holds up well. There may be tougher finishes out there. Dura Coat is the only one that I have personal experience with. Thanks for the post!
Cheers
Balding
PS.....Hey, IDIOT- I love your name!
 
It looks like duracoat is a great way alternative to factory coating, and then you can get some color on your beckers. Nice work, that sheath is neat too!

-orangish ducktape
 
How long did you let the Duracoat cure for before testing it? The longer it cures, the mo better it is supposed to last.

The actual pattern is about three weeks old. I finally put the required clearcoat on about a week ago. It's funny stuff -- most colors are fine the way they are, some brighter colors require a basecoat of white, some (like this silver) require a clearcoat. But you are right, it dries tack-free overnight, but they say it doesn't reach it's full strength for quite a while.

The diamond coat pattern has three shades of silver and grey with very poor written instructions, and I think I mixed up the placement of two of the colors -- which is why I don't think it came out as realistic as it could have.
 
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