Hey, I moved on to the worksharp precision adjust and I love the hell out of it. My small problem is that I want to reprofile my knife from 22 degrees to 15 or 17. But I want some tips before I attack it head on. I've also seen people use sandpaper on the system. What's the best way to use sandpaper and lapping films? Push or pull? Alotta people helped me here last time, so I figured I make another thread. Thanks again
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Just need some tips and tricks with reprofiling a s30v knife
- Thread starter Joshj2002
- Start date
I know with strops it’s pull only, not sure about lapping. Some of the lapping tape out there is pretty thin, so pull to prevent tearing the tape. I’m experimenting with some of the lapping film from Jende. It’s supposed to be more robust and I’ve had no issues with it using push and pull. I did some scrubbing motions with it on my PM2 with no issues.
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- Apr 12, 2009
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For reprofiling, SiC wet/dry sandpaper is VERY SLOW on S30V (been there, done that). With sandpaper, the abrasive layer is too shallow, the grit will break down very quickly and the paper will quickly load up & clog with swarf. So, it slows down EVERYTHING in at least 3 different ways. And even the thin paper backing of sandpaper tends to cushion the grit, so it's not as aggressive as done with a hard stone. AND, the relatively small size of the hone backing it means the paper will exhaust itself that much faster and will need replacing very frequently.
Assuming you have a Coarse diamond hone as part of that system, I'd stick with that. If not using the WS system at all, a bench stone (8" x 2" or larger) in Coarse SiC or XC diamond would be more ideal for reprofiling S30V.
As earlier suggested, maybe doing a little at a time, in subsequent sharpenings, would be the better approach.
Assuming you have a Coarse diamond hone as part of that system, I'd stick with that. If not using the WS system at all, a bench stone (8" x 2" or larger) in Coarse SiC or XC diamond would be more ideal for reprofiling S30V.
As earlier suggested, maybe doing a little at a time, in subsequent sharpenings, would be the better approach.
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My advice is to thin the knife freehand and only work a bevel of half a millimeter or less using the Work Sharp. The basic idea is elucidated here.