Just not getting hair whittling edges with edge pro.

CrimsonTideShooter

CrimsonTideShooter

Joined
Oct 23, 2010
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Ok so after a little over a week and many hours of practice I feel pretty proficient at the edge pro. I take the edges up to the 3000 grit tape with the aluminum blanks, and they get REALLY sharp - but not hair whittling.

If I draw a hair across the edge they just kind of skip across instead of catching. I can also cut TP, but barely. What do I need to take my knives to that next level of sharpness? I want to get to hair whittling, then I'm satisfied. I see ankerson posting up pictures of his hair whittling edges and it seems like he gets it on every knife. What am I missing?
 
Here is a quote from Ankerson on the Edge Pro that may help... Making sure it's in contact with the stone correctly, reaching the burr, etc. It looks like he goes to slightly higher grits than you, so maybe give that a shot?

JGON


Ankerson said:
It works better than most IMO. :)

The most important things with the Edge Pro are the same most important things when sharpening freehand. :thumbup:

But there are things to pay attention to, you have to watch the bevel and make sure the edge is correct and to that grit stone along with having a bur before flipping the blade. Yes you do one side at a time, then flip it and move on to the next stone and repeat.

The tapes are different, more like stropping, the 2000 Grit 1st then move to the 6000 grit. Attention to detail is everything in achieving the ultimate edge.

I won't give away all my tricks. :D
Click to expand...
 
singularity35 said:
Sharpie for every stone change so that you're sure you're hitting the edge when you change grits.
Click to expand...

So you're saying diff stones hit on diff areas? I've kind of noticed this I think. I could be wrong.


I mean I can get edges sharp enough to push cut paper like it's not there, slice paper towels, and kind of cut TP. (depends on the brand). Is this a high level of sharpness? Should I be happy with that?

I want to whittle hair, and I can as long as I'm holding the hair taught. Are there just some things that he knows how to do that make his edges special?
 
Just hang in there, and realize that your knives are ALREADY much sharper than 99.9 percent of Americans can get them. :p

And remember that your skill and comfort level with your tools will slowly improve with experience.
 
First, it depends on whose hair you're whittling. Second, try to get your hands on the 6000 grit tapes. I also went and got the glass blanks which are apparently flatter..not sure how much of an effect on the edge it makes.

Ideally, and this is what I've been using, when you get to the polishing tapes increase the angle slightly to make sure you're hitting the edge. Obtain the 6000 grit tapes and apply. I've also, on the advice of Ankerson, starting using a somewhat depleted 6000 grit tape wiped down with a thin layer of Mother's Mag polish. The first time I went through the complete process I finished up my CPM-M4 Gayle Bradley at 18 degrees/36 inclusive. I made the mistake of chatting with my wife as I closed the blade: the tip entered my palm with no resistance and little pain, bled well, yet closed up and healed with no bandage required within several days. That blade popped hair, cut TP..the whole shebang.

You'll get there. Practice and if need be- upgrade.
 
I think Ankerson does most of knives at 30 degrees inclusive also, which is pretty nasty stuff. I don't really like taking mine below 36 degrees inclusive since I want somewhat more durable edge also. What angle are you putting on your edges?
 
CrimsonTideShooter said:
So you're saying diff stones hit on diff areas? I've kind of noticed this I think. I could be wrong.


I mean I can get edges sharp enough to push cut paper like it's not there, slice paper towels, and kind of cut TP. (depends on the brand). Is this a high level of sharpness? Should I be happy with that?

I want to whittle hair, and I can as long as I'm holding the hair taught. Are there just some things that he knows how to do that make his edges special?
Click to expand...

Of course, different stones wear at different rates and initial thickness of the stones may vary a bit resulting in some stones not hitting the edges like the previous grit stone. Also when you lap the stones, you may be taking away a more from some stones more than others.
 
Bapple said:
I think Ankerson does most of knives at 30 degrees inclusive also, which is pretty nasty stuff. I don't really like taking mine below 36 degrees inclusive since I want somewhat more durable edge also. What angle are you putting on your edges?
Click to expand...

I normally sharpen at 36 inclusive also, although I keep my big knives like my Esees at 42.

I took one knife down to 30 inclusive, and that was the leek. It still didn't get hair whittling.
 
if you're sure you're hitting the edge with all the stones and the tapes, try the 9-7-5-3-1 strokes per side alternating sides. Ex. 9 strokes side A flip, then 9 strokes side B. Flip back to A then 7 strokes, flip to B and stroke 7 and so on. Use the lightest pressure you can manage especially on the higher grit stones and the tape.
 
Until you get to know your individual stones and tapes, I would follow singularity35's advise about using a 'sharpie' on every hone change. If the measured thickness of the hones change, then compensation will be required on the arm height. You might have to adjust the arm every change.Also the wider the bevel , the more noticeable is this change.
I am sure this is the key to getting the level of sharpness you desire.
 
Nosmo said:
Until you get to know your individual stones and tapes, I would follow singularity35's advise about using a 'sharpie' on every hone change. If the measured thickness of the hones change, then compensation will be required on the arm height. You might have to adjust the arm every change.Also the wider the bevel , the more noticeable is this change.
I am sure this is the key to getting the level of sharpness you desire.
Click to expand...

:eek:Am I glad I didn't order one of these!;)
 
bladestamp said:
:eek:Am I glad I didn't order one of these!;)
Click to expand...

Don't forget -- they're discussing methods for attaining levels of sharpness that few folks will bother with. The devil is in the details at that point, regardless of which tools you are using.

One work-around for the geometry issue is to use sandpaper glued to aluminum (or glass) blanks from ~400 grit upward. Diamond stones can be used to cover the 400 to 1200 grit range with good results, but you need to check with a sharpie when you make the jump to sandpaper or polish tapes.
 
Ok, so, with my edgepro apex, I usually sharpen at a 25 degree angle (my knives are Spyderco's and that's usually what they're set to when I do the sharpy thing). I know it's not really related to the original post, but am I measuring this correctly or would it be good if I slowly transitioned to an angle that was less steep? I know it depends on what I use my knives for, but does anyone have an opinion on what angles are best for all around cutting?

Thanks, and I apoligize if anyone prefer I have not posted this here.

-Blatantevil7
 
First, there is no reason to follow the bevel from the factory. For one thing, it's never even. Spydercos are supposed to come with 20* bevels. That's the high end on the Sharpmaker. No Spydercos that I know of can't go down to 20*. I don't have any problems taking the blades down to the 15* level, especially with ZDP and M4 (I've gone a lot lower too). That alone can make quite a difference.

Other than that, It's about the purity of your technique. You can not have a bobble in there anywhere and expect it to not make a difference. Make every stroke count!
 
blatantevil7 said:
Ok, so, with my edgepro apex, I usually sharpen at a 25 degree angle (my knives are Spyderco's and that's usually what they're set to when I do the sharpy thing). I know it's not really related to the original post, but am I measuring this correctly or would it be good if I slowly transitioned to an angle that was less steep? I know it depends on what I use my knives for, but does anyone have an opinion on what angles are best for all around cutting?

Thanks, and I apoligize if anyone prefer I have not posted this here.

-Blatantevil7
Click to expand...

I find that a 30 degree inclusive(15 degrees per side) is a great all around performer. This bevel angle is also quite easy to touch up on the sharpmaker and/or a loaded strop. Steels like 8CR13MOV and 154CM I keep at 36 degrees inclusive(18 per side) and microbevel at 40 degrees on the sharpmaker. I have my ZDP endura at 24 degrees inclusive but it is a little high maintenance so I microbeveled this at 30 degrees on the sharpmaker.
 
singularity35 said:
I find that a 30 degree inclusive(15 degrees per side) is a great all around performer. This bevel angle is also quite easy to touch up on the sharpmaker and/or a loaded strop. Steels like 8CR13MOV and 154CM I keep at 36 degrees inclusive(18 per side) and microbevel at 40 degrees on the sharpmaker. I have my ZDP endura at 24 degrees inclusive but it is a little high maintenance so I microbeveled this at 30 degrees on the sharpmaker.
Click to expand...

So, I could probably search this on the internet, but what do you mean by "30 degree inclusive"? I see that it's 15 degrees per side, so that means that when I set my apex, I would set it to 15 degrees?

I have a sharpmaker as well, and when you "microbevel" are you doing this with an ultra fine stone (which I don't have), and could this be done on a strop (which I plan on making within the week)?

Thanks,
Blatantevil
 
blatantevil7 said:
So, I could probably search this on the internet, but what do you mean by "30 degree inclusive"? I see that it's 15 degrees per side, so that means that when I set my apex, I would set it to 15 degrees?
Click to expand...

Yes, the 15 degree setting of the edge pro will be close enough to 30 degrees inclusive such that it won't matter. The angle will vary a little depending on your the geometry of your knife.

blatantevil7 said:
I have a sharpmaker as well, and when you "microbevel" are you doing this with an ultra fine stone (which I don't have), and could this be done on a strop (which I plan on making within the week)?

Thanks,
Blatantevil
Click to expand...

I think that it could be done on a strop, but I like to do it on the sharpmaker. I do microbevel on the UF rods but the white rods will do. After sharpening on the edge pro just stroke at 5 alternating strokes per side on the sharpmaker at the angle of your choice. That will be your microbevel. If you need to touch up, use the same angle that you microbeveled on.
 
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