Just ordered a 1x42 Kalamazoo, any tips?

Noctis3880

Noctis3880

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Jul 22, 2009
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Just put the order in yesterday, I expect it sometime near the end of this week. Any tips for using this?

My experience thus far with powered systems are with the paper wheels(not that successful) and with my Worksharp WKSTS(reasonably well).

I bought this primarily for regrinding knives, and also ordered several ceramic belts to complement it, but I also ordered some scotchbrite belts and felt belts for power stropping. I'm just not too sure what to expect from its use. From my experience with using a buffer, it has a tendency to "grab" the blade and jerk it out of your hand, and I'm wondering if that could be expected from the felt belts. Also curious if water from a spray bottle can be used to water the belts to mitigate heat build-up. I also still have that piece of fat-based lubricant for my paper wheels and wanted to know if that would be good to use for my 36 grit belts:D.
 
We use Norton blaze belts on our KMG and TW-90 2x72 grinders, they dissipate heat well though we have a cool mist wet grinding system for doing regrinds and heavy stock removal. I have never had a issue with the belts grabbing the blade but I would recommend being careful with a scotch brite belt as it will build a lot of heat. If you get the belt considerably wet during grinding leave it on the grinder until dry or it will curl up.

36 grit is a beast belt, be careful when using it.
 
For polishing, linen belts with CBN compound, 1 mic, .5 mic, .25 mic, .125 mic and .1 micron are hard to beat.

I know two small custom makers that are now using linen belts with 80 micron CBN for heavy duty metal removal.
 
Ben Dover said:
For polishing, linen belts with CBN compound, 1 mic, .5 mic, .25 mic, .125 mic and .1 micron are hard to beat.

I know two small custom makers that are now using linen belts with 80 micron CBN for heavy duty metal removal.
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Sounds like overkill unless you're grinding s90v. I'll mostly be sticking to D2 for its price point and hardness. As for polishing, I probably won't do much due to the price per belt. Plus I already have diamond sprays:D.
 
The linen belts can be purchased for $3-$4 each. Diamond spray works as well, or better, on a linen belt as on a leather strop.:thumbup:

Try 10 micron CBN on a linen belt for D-2. Should be about right for that steel, even for re-bevelling.

BTW, I seldom try to polish D-2 past 2000 grit due to the very large carbides. CPM D-2 has smaller carbides and takes a 5000 grit shine quite well.
 
Try reading this old link. It was given to me when I ordered my Kalamazoo a couple months ago. The guy I got it from is my grinder guru and Jerry the man writing the link is his. He will give you a shopping list and buy what he tells you to get. I did and I have outstanding results!! It took about two times to get the hang of it and I turn out some great edges! In fact I would say your just not even going to believe how well they turn out?
Have fun good luck

http://www.knifeforums.com/forums/showtopic.php?tid/776367/tp/1/
 
knifenut1013 said:
We use Norton blaze belts on our KMG and TW-90 2x72 grinders, they dissipate heat well though we have a cool mist wet grinding system for doing regrinds and heavy stock removal. I have never had a issue with the belts grabbing the blade but I would recommend being careful with a scotch brite belt as it will build a lot of heat. If you get the belt considerably wet during grinding leave it on the grinder until dry or it will curl up.

36 grit is a beast belt, be careful when using it.
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I had a good experience with the Norton Blaze belts. Granted they were 1/2" by 12" belts used on my Worksharp, which were horribly neutered by the fact that the plastic cover fractured and broke much of the grit prematurely simply because it was never designed to accommodate such belts(same with the scotchbrite belts). But it was still aggressive enough to regrind several hardened blades, and I never saw any sparks flying.

Ben Dover said:
The linen belts can be purchased for $3-$4 each. Diamond spray works as well, or better, on a linen belt as on a leather strop.:thumbup:

Try 10 micron CBN on a linen belt for D-2. Should be about right for that steel, even for re-bevelling.

BTW, I seldom try to polish D-2 past 2000 grit due to the very large carbides. CPM D-2 has smaller carbides and takes a 5000 grit shine quite well.
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I'll keep them in mind, though I prefer to use bare leather without compounds as a finishing step.

As for D2, I found it pretty easy to polish that to a mirror finish almost without effort. S30V is definitely harder to do that on.
 
Any idea what a good "series" of belts are for fine edge refining?

I know the Norton Blaze is good for stock removal and goes up to 120 grit. What would be good past that point? I do like the Micro-Mesh MX series given that Silicon Carbide seems to cut sharper and longer, though the belts tend to have a problem of separation and I lose more belts due to the belts coming apart at the seams rather than the belt actually wearing out. The next best thing seems to be the 3M Trizact, but I have no experience with those and I'd also like to ask around to see how the belt life is like and whether or not they have issues with belt separation.
 
I turned mine around backwards so the belt is moving from the bench up. This way I can see when the edge burs up. I don't see how people use these things edge down and get consistent results. It's probably a VERY bad idea to do this but I've had the sharpest knives I've ever owned in my life since getting my Kalamzoo and turning it around.
 
Infi-del said:
I turned mine around backwards so the belt is moving from the bench up. This way I can see when the edge burs up. I don't see how people use these things edge down and get consistent results. It's probably a VERY bad idea to do this but I've had the sharpest knives I've ever owned in my life since getting my Kalamzoo and turning it around.
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I see most guys sharpen against the belt with the edge up, so that might explain one method. For me, I've never had a problem feeling for a burr until the abrasive grit goes below 10 microns or so.
 
NOCTIS3880, Check out my reply in Strigamort's thread about being in love with his leather belt and grinder,to save repeating here. Your experiences may differ, but that is what I have observed in my limited experience.

Blessings

Omar
 
Infi-del said:
I turned mine around backwards so the belt is moving from the bench up. This way I can see when the edge burs up. I don't see how people use these things edge down and get consistent results. It's probably a VERY bad idea to do this but I've had the sharpest knives I've ever owned in my life since getting my Kalamzoo and turning it around.
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You don't have to turn it around. Just swap the #5 and the #8 (I think, I'm not at home to check for sure, but mine came with instructions right above the switch) wires in the switch box, and it's reversed, plus your switch is still in the front :thumbup:

I have mine set up that way, and find it FAR easier to raise a consistent burr and maintain my desired angle. With a good light mounted just above the tensioning/tracking wheel, the burr stands out like a sore thumb. Eye protection is a MUST though this way, and I wear a respirator while doing any heavy sharpening as well. I don't worry about that if I'm just doing a quick touch up or power stropping.

I have had good results with 3M Trizact Gators in 120, 240, 400, 600, followed by leather with compound
 
Just got my Kalamazoo in today(shipping to Hawaii is a real pain). Didn't do anything too exciting, just loaded up 2 felt belts with 0.5 and 0.25 micron diamond spray, then used a leather belt to hone my CRKT Ken Onion Skinner. It didn't seem much sharper, though I'm using the platen and I'm not too sure how accurate my sharpening was.

Good thing I've got 3 Mora knives to sacrifice in the pursuit of practice, but I suspect I'll need about 7 more before the week is done:D.
 
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