Just picked up a Spyderco Sharpmaker . A few questions I couldn't find answers to.

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Jun 9, 2014
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Hi all. I know there are thousands of threads about the Sharpmaker but after browsing them I just have a few questions I couldn't find the answers to, sorry if they're there and I just overlooked them but here are my questions.

1) I just bought the standard package from the local woodcrafting store so no diamond rods or anything fancy, do I need any of that to get my knives shaving/push cutting paper sharp?
2) I know it only has 30 and 40° inclusive, I have a Smith's tungsten carbide pull through adjustable angle sharpener that easily reprofiles an angle quickly by removing a lot of steel. Should I run them through there to get a 30 or 40° angle on them before going to the Sharpmaker or is that unnecessary?
3) Do I sharpen hollow ground blades the same as I would flat ground blades on the Sharpmaker?
4)I have not yet watched the included DVD (even though it may have answered one or more of these questions I trust BF more), is there anything on it that is bad information or that there are better ways of doing then what they explain on the DVD? Or should I follow everything the way they say to do it?

I apologize for making a Sharpmaker thread as I know there are so many but I couldn't find these answers in the ones I browsed. Thank you all in advance. Your advice is very much appreciated as always.

Regards,
Aaron
 
1. The diamond rods are only necessary if you plan on reprofiling harder steels, such as S90V, S110V, or the like, or if the knives you are sharpening are extremely dull. You may want the ultrafine rods for a nice polished edge, but they seem most effective once you're well practiced in the motions and function of the original system.

2. I would avoid the pull through sharpener whenever possible. It'll chew the edge up and not be fun to work with from there. Not to mention, as you said, it removes quite a bit of steel. If this is your preference, go with the diamond rods.

3. Hollow and flat grind make no difference, as you're only sharpening the very edge.

4. The DVD is very informative and helpful. If you wish to test other techniques once you have the starting ones down, there are many helpful ones on Youtube explaining the methods.

Enjoy your new device! It may take time to practice, and can be frustrating, but once you have the hang of it, it is the best feeling to finish with a hair-popping edge from such a simple system.
 
1. The diamond rods are only necessary if you plan on reprofiling harder steels, such as S90V, S110V, or the like, or if the knives you are sharpening are extremely dull. You may want the ultrafine rods for a nice polished edge, but they seem most effective once you're well practiced in the motions and function of the original system.

2. I would avoid the pull through sharpener whenever possible. It'll chew the edge up and not be fun to work with from there. Not to mention, as you said, it removes quite a bit of steel. If this is your preference, go with the diamond rods.

3. Hollow and flat grind make no difference, as you're only sharpening the very edge.

4. The DVD is very informative and helpful. If you wish to test other techniques once you have the starting ones down, there are many helpful ones on Youtube explaining the methods.

Enjoy your new device! It may take time to practice, and can be frustrating, but once you have the hang of it, it is the best feeling to finish with a hair-popping edge from such a simple system.

Thank you very much for the info. I'm extremely excited to start practicing and learning! Once I get that first hair popping edge I'm gonna be giddy like a little schoolgirl :welcoming:
 
Great! Glad I could help. It really is a great system, and relaxing to use once you have your stroke pattern figured out. Post up and let us know if you have any more questions, and of course when you get that first incredible edge!

Take care,
Thomas
 
I got the diamond rods because most knives when sharpened on the 40' setting don't have the stone hitting the edge. I reprofile with the diamonds and polish the edge, then I add a tiny unseeable microbevel with about 5 strokes on each side on the 40 setting. Gives me an edge that will pop hairs. Still trying to avoid scratching the blade, I seem to do that every time.
 
Okay...

I was EDC'ing my Kershaw Thermite today which has been used a lot and never sharpened. I spent the day helping my buddy process scrap metal. I used the Thermite to strip copper wires, cut tape and crap off of steel and other metals, etc. At the end of the day my knife was working sharp but was tearing paper when I tried to slice it clean. So I come home, pop in my DVD, read the instruction manual, and get to work on my sharpmaker for the first time ever following the instructions given...

:eek: All I can say is WOW. Just...WOW. I just found out that all the knives I thought I was getting sharp by using sandpaper on a mouse pad aren't really sharp at all. I can shave and cut paper with them but I didn't know what sharp was until now. This is by far the sharpest knife I've ever used and my Blur out of the box was scary sharp, this even beats that. I cannot believe how well this system works and how simple it is. The best part is this was my first time using it so my technique will only improve over time. I cannot even imagine what the ultra fine rods that aren't included will do. But you better believe I'm gonna find out as soon as I get my hands on some! This thing has changed my definition of what scary sharp means. I'm so thankful to BF as I'd never heard of it up until I found this site and read what people had to say about it. I'm going to get the Diamond rods and the ultrafine rods too. This may be the best money I've ever spent in my life. I have a LOT of work ahead of me that I'm very much looking forward to!

Thank you guys very much for your advice. Although saying it's a great system is an understatement :D Today was a good day.

Now on to my Buck 119...

P.S. I LOVE this community :) You guys are great! :biggrin:
 
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