Hi all. I know there are thousands of threads about the Sharpmaker but after browsing them I just have a few questions I couldn't find the answers to, sorry if they're there and I just overlooked them but here are my questions.
1) I just bought the standard package from the local woodcrafting store so no diamond rods or anything fancy, do I need any of that to get my knives shaving/push cutting paper sharp?
2) I know it only has 30 and 40° inclusive, I have a Smith's tungsten carbide pull through adjustable angle sharpener that easily reprofiles an angle quickly by removing a lot of steel. Should I run them through there to get a 30 or 40° angle on them before going to the Sharpmaker or is that unnecessary?
3) Do I sharpen hollow ground blades the same as I would flat ground blades on the Sharpmaker?
4)I have not yet watched the included DVD (even though it may have answered one or more of these questions I trust BF more), is there anything on it that is bad information or that there are better ways of doing then what they explain on the DVD? Or should I follow everything the way they say to do it?
I apologize for making a Sharpmaker thread as I know there are so many but I couldn't find these answers in the ones I browsed. Thank you all in advance. Your advice is very much appreciated as always.
Regards,
Aaron
1) I just bought the standard package from the local woodcrafting store so no diamond rods or anything fancy, do I need any of that to get my knives shaving/push cutting paper sharp?
2) I know it only has 30 and 40° inclusive, I have a Smith's tungsten carbide pull through adjustable angle sharpener that easily reprofiles an angle quickly by removing a lot of steel. Should I run them through there to get a 30 or 40° angle on them before going to the Sharpmaker or is that unnecessary?
3) Do I sharpen hollow ground blades the same as I would flat ground blades on the Sharpmaker?
4)I have not yet watched the included DVD (even though it may have answered one or more of these questions I trust BF more), is there anything on it that is bad information or that there are better ways of doing then what they explain on the DVD? Or should I follow everything the way they say to do it?
I apologize for making a Sharpmaker thread as I know there are so many but I couldn't find these answers in the ones I browsed. Thank you all in advance. Your advice is very much appreciated as always.
Regards,
Aaron