Just stripped my basic 7....advice

bdws1975

bdws1975

Joined
May 19, 2006
Messages
3,721
Hi all,

I just stripped my basic 7. the coating was wearing off and I really prefer satin so i thought i would strip it and sand it up.

After i stripped it, I decided to use my dremel to sand the rest of thstuff off. After doing so, i noticed that the dremeling left behind grainy arc-like patters on the blade.

What would you suggest to use to get her all beautiful and satined up? this might be a tinkering thread, but with the unique patterns under the coating, i thought I would ask here. Sorry if it's not appropriate and please move at yoru will.

That said, this is a user so if I can't get it perfectly satin, no biggie. Mainly, this is an opportunity to learn on my part.

Also, I have before, after and between pics up to this point.
thanks,
Brett
 
You could use a scotch brite pad, and sandpaper. You could start with lower grit sandpaper to get rid of any imperfections, and work your way up to finer grit for a smoother finish.
 
I know that most people might cring at this suggestion, but buy some fine sand paper 600grit and up, and put it in an orbital sander, and carfully work out the seashells that you left in the steel...as you sand, try to move steadily, and don't sit in one spot with the sander going....this should get you close...the switch to 1500grit and go by hand..after some sweat, it should look better. Gene
 
I probably should mention it will all have to be by hand. No sanders here.

thanks guys and gals!

Brett
 
You dont have to have a sander. It will take longer by hand but that is no big deal. A little effort and you should be fine.
 
Bax Axe said:
You dont have to have a sander. It will take longer by hand but that is no big deal. A little effort and you should be fine.
Click to expand...

cool. Any suggestions on the lowest I should start with? Should I do the wet/dry sandpaper?

thanks again everyone,
Brett
 
I'd use coarse sandpaper, and it may take a long while to do it by hand depending on how deep you made the little scallops with the dremel. It may need a power sander to fix. I learned not to use a dremel for refinishing similarly.
 
I hand satined one of my mora's after being dissatisfied with the gun blue patina I put on.

I used the wet/dry starting at 600 grit, but it might vary depending on how deep the current marks are. If there are any deep scratches that need polishing out, it'll take a while at that grit.
 
This is just me, but if there are some marks from the dremmel, I would probably start with around 120grit, this will remove the patterns made by the dremmel a little easier. Once you have it to the consistency that you like, then move up to finer grits. If the imperfections are not bad and you want a little polish, then you can start off with a finer grit. I dont think you will hurt anything starting with a lower grit though, as long as you make sure to polish it with finer grits afterwards.
 
Sounds like a copy send it to me to verify . :) look back a few pages theres a great how to .Or go to the EDGE.
 
Bax Axe said:
This is just me, but if there are some marks from the dremmel, I would probably start with around 120grit, this will remove the patterns made by the dremmel a little easier. Once you have it to the consistency that you like, then move up to finer grits. If the imperfections are not bad and you want a little polish, then you can start off with a finer grit. I dont think you will hurt anything starting with a lower grit though.
Click to expand...

But do some small patch tests, and start lightly. It's a pain to go to far and end up just making more scuffs to polish out.
 
Bax Axe said:
This is just me, but if there are some marks from the dremmel, I would probably start with around 120grit, this will remove the patterns made by the dremmel a little easier. Once you have it to the consistency that you like, then move up to finer grits. If the imperfections are not bad and you want a little polish, then you can start off with a finer grit. I dont think you will hurt anything starting with a lower grit though, as long as you make sure to polish it with finer grits afterwards.
Click to expand...

thanks BA. I am heading to ace right now. More than anything, it's fun to learn the process. Honestly, I don't care if it's perfect just wanna have some fun and try my best to get it all sexy like.

thanks for all your suggestions,
Brett
 
I generally start with 220...

But the key to a nice satin finish is to alternate directions as you move up in grits.

You could start with 220 (either by hand or block) and sand along the length of the blade. After you no longer see the dremel marks, go the 320 and sand perpendicular to the 220 marks (spine to edge). After ALL the 200 parallel marks are gone, switch to 400 and go legthwise (butt to tip) again.

That should do it, but if you want a finer satin finish, go to 600 grit and work again from spine to edge untill ALL the 400 marks are gone. (you aren't going to able to perfectly get up close to the res-c, so just don't sweat it.)

You can continue all the way to mirror if you like, but i would keep it satin for a user.

About 2 hours, 10 dollars worth of sandpaper, and some sore fingers, it should look pretty sweet.
 
nice! Thanks. i am grabbing my keys right now.

Brett

xaman said:
I generally start with 220... The key to a nice satin finish is to alternate directions as you move up in grits.

You could start with 220 (either by hand or block) and sand along the length of the blade. After you no longer see the dremel marks, go the 320 and sand perpendicular to the 220 marks (spine to edge). After ALL the 200 parallel marks are gone, switch to 400 and go legthwise (butt to tip) again.

That should do it, but if you want a finer satin finish, go to 600 grit and work again from spine to edge untill ALL the 400 marks are gone. (you aren't going to able to perfectly get up close to the res-c, so just don't sweat it.)

You can continue all the way to mirror if you like, but i would keep it satin for a user.

About 2 hours, 10 dollars worth of sandpaper, and some sore fingers, it should look pretty sweet.
Click to expand...
 
Just do it by hand starting with coarse and moving up to fine grit paper. I use a sanding block with some Carbide wet/dry paper. Also use a sanding sponge to get right up against the micarta so I don't sand any of the handle. It's easy to screw up your knife with powertools....hard to do it by hand :p
 
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