JYD2 is rusting

Joined
Jan 22, 2008
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I got a JYD2 about two months ago and have been caring it ever day and ive started to notice a fine surface rust forming on the blade. I was wondering if anyone else has had this problem if i just got a defect. No pictures because i dont know how to post them but if you guys want some i will try and figure it out again. Thanks in advance.
 
Any kind of steel, even stainless, will rust if you don't maintain it or if you live close to the ocean. I would just use some metal polish and a Q-tip to take it off, I've done that plenty of times on production knives that I've neglected in the past.
 
I know any steel can rust but i don't think i have been neglecting it. It is wiped clean and dry after ever use before it returns to my pocket.
 
I know any steel can rust but i don't think i have been neglecting it. It is wiped clean and dry after ever use before it returns to my pocket.

It could be the humidity where you live as well. Do you live near the Jersey Shore? If you do, the salt water in the air would definitely be a factor, too.
 
haha not to far about 30 min from there. I didn't relize humidity could cause rust to be forming the quickly.
 
haha not to far about 30 min from there. I didn't relize humidity could cause rust to be forming the quickly.

That makes sense. One other thing that I forgot to mention, blades with beadblasted or tumbled finishes tend to rust more easily than blades with satin finishes or coatings. So for where you live, I would probably recommend satin finished or coated blades on knives that you buy, if you have that option on the model that you want.

Otherwise, just try to keep the blade coated in camellia oil when you're not using it, that helps a lot, too.
 
No defect, just nature's process of air and iron. Clean up the surface spots with WD40 and a scrubby, or if something stronger is needed, Flitz. Keep it protected with a wipe-down of gun oil, mineral oil if you use it in the kitchen, or a dry protectant like Tuff Glide. If you use gun oil or the like, just a drop on a paper towel, and a quick wipe will take care of it...you shouldn't have anymore problems! :thumbup:
 
My JYD rust in an almost monthly basis compared to my other knives. My edc includes Aus-8a, VG-10, JYD II, S30V and Aus-6a. The steel JYDII has rusts a little bit too easy for my liking. Not only in my EDC, my safe queen JYDII too has rust issues. In case you guys are mentioning about the bead blast thingy, my user JYDII was given the sandpaper scrubdown before because of the repeated rust. The sandpaper rubdown didn't stopped the frequent rust spots, merely slowed them down. I wished I waited till Kershaw switched to the new sandvic steel before getting my safequeen...

However, holds a razor edge and for a decent time. The rust issue is not too big an issue to compete with the great knife that is the JYDII...
 
JJ you are correct that H1 is almost 100% completely rust proof. But there are trade-offs. H1 is an austenitic steel (cold rolled - not heat treatable) and has a very high Nickel content (7% to 12% normally). The trade-off is that it's more expensive, harder for the manufacturers to work with, and has not shown the edge retention abilities of current higher-end martensitic steels. I believe it has been compared to 420...?
 
JJ you are correct that H1 is almost 100% completely rust proof. But there are trade-offs. H1 is an austenitic steel (cold rolled - not heat treatable) and has a very high Nickel content (7% to 12% normally). The trade-off is that it's more expensive, harder for the manufacturers to work with, and has not shown the edge retention abilities of current higher-end martensitic steels. I believe it has been compared to 420...?

If I want something that is almost completely rust proof in a blade material, I go with Stellite 6K. It isn't as hard as most steels, but it has outstanding wear resistance, high lubricity, and it takes and holds a great edge.
 
I think it should be pointed out that all steel types will rust, with the exception of H-1.

I think it should also be pointed out that all steel eventually dulls. :o Yet we, (knife knuts) are always looking for a better edge holding steel.

Sorry.......
 
Also worth mentioning, is that people's perspiration can differ from one another. And a pocket can hold that perspiration/humidity close to the knife. I would try using Tuff-Glide or any other gun-cloth once in the morning and once in the evening on your EDC, and see if that helps.

As others have said, the better the blade steel, more prone to rust it tends to be (often because of a higher carbon content). For all the disparaging remarks about Kershaw's old 440A, it did resist rust well...it just had to be (easily) resharpened more often.
 
Also worth mentioning, is that people's perspiration can differ from one another. And a pocket can hold that perspiration/humidity close to the knife. I would try using Tuff-Glide or any other gun-cloth once in the morning and once in the evening on your EDC, and see if that helps.

As others have said, the better the blade steel, more prone to rust it tends to be (often because of a higher carbon content). For all the disparaging remarks about Kershaw's old 440A, it did resist rust well...it just had to be (easily) resharpened more often.

Not thought of that, I'll try your twice a day theory and see if it'll make my JYD II perfect again...
 
I say listen to Mr. Trader. He knows these things. Get the salt out of the pores with a WD40 bath. Clean the knife blade off, and without touching it go over it with a Silicone cloth, a "tuff Cloth", or other similar product of your choice.

Like a firearm that shot corrosive ammo you need to get all the salts from the steel before you bother wiping it off. Once you get it off, it's a lot easier to keep off.

Always remember to keep fingerprints off of it before you put it up for the night.

Once you play around with some easy to rust carbon steels you won't ever complain about stainless steels again. BTW, the higher performance the stainless steels ( like yours), the lesser the corrosion resistance. They are still lots better than some simple, plain carbon steels though. Joe
 
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