JYH linkages?

Will52100

Will52100

Joined
Dec 4, 2001
Messages
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It looks like they'll never get a tire hammer class going around here, and that plans for said hammer will never be forthcoming. Well I've started gathering a few pieces of steel, and realy like the idea of the tire used as a clutch.

What is bugging me is the linkaged to the hammer head. I'd love to make a togle arm like the little giant, but unless I can take a tape measure to one I realy don't want to spend a couple months of trial and error.

I was thinking of marring the tire hammer with the spring linkaged Robert Brothers used on his. http://www.anvilfire.com/power/jyh/brothers/jyh-b.htm

I searched for Bob, but couldn't find any of his old post or anything, hope nothing has happened to him?

I would rather avoid a shock absorber, from everything I hear they hit rather soft.

Any and all help greatly apreciated,
Thanks
 
I'll try to remember to measure the toggle arms on my 25 and 50 lb LG..
Any other measurements you need?

I'll be off tommorrow so wed. before I'm back here
 
Thanks Sweany, I've got a book on LG's on the way. I've got an idea for a simple spring linkage, but it'll take some ajustment to get it too work.

Who knows, by the time I get one built or almost built I'll run into a good deal on a good used one.:rolleyes:
 
The Rusty or Dusty plans lacks a lot in details, I built a 50 lb. version and controll is not there. It runs a little slow, and hits a little soft. And is under powered even thought the plans say a 3/4 horse would do fine, it needs at least a 1 horse. I may rebuilt it to something that works better, but rite now I'm disgusted with it. When it runs it beats a sledge hammer, but it likes to trip breakers on motor and electricle pannel, and I realy don't feel like putting anouther motor on it. It's been through 3 so far. The first couple had the base break off due to vibration. Something that wasn't mentioned in the so called plans. I have seen a version that works well, but it's a far cry from the original.
 
well,:o tommorrow i'll get those measurements.

I just watched a borrowed copy of The LG tapes by Wild Rose Forge, (you can get em on anvil fire)

Most LG's I've used includeing my own just have not been adjusted correctly. That tape is worth the money if you want all you can get out of the hammer.

I like that JYH linkage, I'd sure want a shield in front of it though, just like the orginal LG linkage.
 
Thanks Sweany, I may have to invest in that vidio. I've got a book on little giants comming for research also. I'm in the middle of trying to get ready to build a house, so who knows, by the time I get ready to get started Clay may have plans out. In any case I'm slowly collecting steel and ideas.
 
The 25Lb toggle arms are 3-1/2" apart at the yoke on the eccentric.
the long toggle arm is 10-3/4" pin to pin the spring is mounted 4-1/2" from the center of the top toggle arm pin.

The short toggle to the tup is center to center 4-1/2"

The ecentric is 1-1/2" off center
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
The 50lb toggle arms are 4-1/2" apart at the yoke on the ecentric.
The long toggle arm is 14-1/2" center to center the spring is mounted 6" from the center of the top toggle arm pin

The short toggle to the tup is 6" center to center

The ecentric is 2-1/2"


One of the things I've noticed on the krusty and the homebuilt helves are a very jerky movement at times.

The LG ecentric is counter balanced to offset the weight of the tup, most farm machinery I'm familiar with is built this way too.

The other thing is the pitman arm on the krusty seems to me to be too long, I noticed when the machine is running the pitman arm looks like a piece of rope. An engineer friend of mine told me tubing would be a better choice than solid or all thread.

my .02
 
Thanks Sweany, the Krusty and Rusty style have a 3.5" excentric on the flywheel. Come to think of the tire hammer does too. Me thinks I'm going to have to do some modling. Oh well, gives me something to work on while I'm stuck on the rig.

Your rite about the jerky movement of the rusty style, danged flap happy bolt shedding things.

Thanks again
 
Somewhere on the net I saw an adustable eccentric. dunno if it was the metalshaper guys with their homemade helves or just anvifire. :confused:

Anyhow the Wid Rose Forge tapes shows "setting" the tup travel on the LG with the "slide" off the eccentric, he claims that is A VERY VALUABLE ADUSTMENT. :D
 
The krusty or Rusty is easy, the turnbuckle that conects the flywheel to the spring "helve". Just screw in in or out to raise or lower the hammer head.
 
Will, any other "adjustments" you can recomend. I'm gatherin' up materials at the moment, like to start in a week or so.
 
the adjustable eccentric I saw had a slot in the disc or pulley, the stub axle for the pitman was mounted on a plate that bolted into the slot on the shaft
 
Hey Will,I've been following this Krusty thread for a while now. Interesting little helper ! Any chance of getting a copy of the detailed plan ?
 
Will, I already sent for the detailed plans, thanks. Sent for them 3 weeks ago.
They seem to be a pretty sound idea, just need a few edges rounded off :-)
I like the tire clutch idea too but just can't seem to get a good view of the toggles arms either.
 
got the dimensions and such from this website. http://www.geocities.com/rock65cc/plans1.html

He didn't use a tire for the clutch, but I like the way he did it and he's got a pretty good parts break down for the toggle link. Still take a little tinkering to get the rite spring and such.

Have got a book on little giants and on shop built hammers comming, hopefully more info in them.
 
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