K2..Can the edge be thinned(reprofied) with the SM

C

clockman

Joined
Jan 14, 2009
Messages
3,176
I have a Farid K2. Can the edge be reprofiled with the diamond stones on a SM ?

I'd like to hear from guys with some experience with doing this with cpm 10v, if there are any.
 
Have not done it with 10v but I've done multiple reprofiles on a Manix 2 in s110v. The diamond rods will handle any steel fine. Takes a bit of time, but no problem. The bevel on the Manix was quite thick and required a lot of stock removal. I think it took about 20-25 minutes to reprofile it to 30 degrees. I strongly recommend (when removing lots of metal) working one side at a time and using a quick up and down movement rather than just making alternating downstrokes. This will make stock removal 3-4x faster on the sharpmaker.
 
There are better tools for the job. It could be done, but I wouldn't want to do it.
Russ
 
Had to reprofile my mule team in k390. Edge came with about a 3/4" flat spot near the guard. Should have sent it back but decided to test my skill. It took several hours using the 30 degree set up on the sharp maker. K390 is the hardest steel to reprofile I have encountered. It usually takes a while on the SM but it was a painstaking process for this steel. I would recommend a different set up if you have one.
 
As mycough and kells45 said, there are definitely better tools for the job, but if you work it one side at a time with an up and down motion as I described it really shouldn't take more than 30-45 minutes.
 
Surfingringo said:
..if you work it one side at a time with an up and down motion as I described it really shouldn't take more than 30-45 minutes.
Click to expand...

Aha so that's how you achieve faster reprofiling with the SM... I was questioning the health of my diamond rods, because they seem to cut much slower for me than you describe.

I sometimes do the single-side-up-down jiggle when I run out of patience on the SM while alternating sides, but after a few mins I *really* run out of patience and usually reach for the DMT's.

I'm in the "there are better tools for the job" camp! :p
 
Last edited:
A large diamond plate would be best.

10v is no walk in the park when sharpening and to reprofile the edge will be a timely task for anyone. Even with my Atoma 140 diamond plate I remember mine to be an enduring event. A cheaper alternative would be a Norton Silicon Carbide stone, much cheaper than the diamond plate but still able to grind the steel quickly.

I have been carrying my K2 for what is probably about a year now and my perferred sharpening method is a Coarse DMT and a Balsa wood strop with 1 micron CBN. This edge has proven to be by far the best for this steel in terms of edge retention, sharpness, and ease of maintenance. I sharpen to a low angle and the steel seems to have great edge stability and toughness, taking hard impacts and regular abuse in stride. It's sharpness and cutting power is also a step above most every steel I have ever used, the edge seems to glide through materials as if they were all nothing more than water while staying razor sharp through cutting tasks that kill even my HAP40 blades.

Personally, the SM is out of its league here. The stones are too small to get the work done in a timely fashion so adding a large benchstone would be my recommendation. The Norton combo SiC stone would be the cheapest route and possibly a single stone solution to sharpening your K2. I would still push towards having a DMT Coarse though, it's ideal for maintaining this steel.
 
And WHY don't you just lay your DMT stones against the SM rods (turned on the flats) in order to keep a semi-constant angle while at the same time make the most out of the agresiveness (and greater abrasive surface) of the DMT stones?

That's what I do with a cheapo carborundum stone when I need to put a new edge on missused, zero maintaned, totally neglected kitchen knives of my beloved ones....
 
I've repro filed 10v with diamonds . I prefer a belt sander and if I didn't have one I'd send it off to Josh before I did it again .
 
I called Josh @ Razorsedge today. I'm going to have him reprofile the edge and reconfigure the Bowie into a drop point. He sent me pics of a K2 with
drop point that he did last year. I think the knife will better and more useful with a drop point.
 
clockman said:
I called Josh @ Razorsedge today. I'm going to have him reprofile the edge and reconfigure the Bowie into a drop point. He sent me pics of a K2 with
drop point that he did last year. I think the knife will better and more useful with a drop point.
Click to expand...

Good call on the drop point conversion IMO. I don't like that bowie style. Too much upsweep up front makes the tip not very useful for detail work. I would definitely regrind the spine if I owned one.
 
I would like to see pics of this k2 in drop point

Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk
 
That drop point is awesome . You'll enjoy your 10v regrouND I had worries because mine was so thin . It's a tough steel I haven't had any problems
 
I might have dropped the point even more for a more acute point, but hat looks great! If they came from the factory like this I would have been seriously tempted...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top