K20 Ninja! My first CPK!

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K20 | Picture Gallery

I've had my head down for a few weeks trying to get some work done, I should be posting everything to my web store later in the week. The work is all done, just drying and/or being assembled. Shiv sacks are done too. Here's a sneak peek of a few of the leather sheaths and Shiv Sacks... I'll...
www.bladeforums.com www.bladeforums.com

K20 | Picture Gallery

I've had my head down for a few weeks trying to get some work done, I should be posting everything to my web store later in the week. The work is all done, just drying and/or being assembled. Shiv sacks are done too. Here's a sneak peek of a few of the leather sheaths and Shiv Sacks... I'll...
www.bladeforums.com www.bladeforums.com
 
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BrettUnder said:
Is “ninja” any different than normal K20? I ask because it looks like it has a hamon which I don’t seem to remember on K20 I’ve seen…
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When he made then he has some that had decarbonization issues and was able to salvage like 20 I believe. The effect was the Hamon appearance and he explain it in the link below

https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/sold-9-swords.1973108/

EDIT: Roland posted the video while I was typing mine up.
 
We had a mishap in heat treat with one batch (the batches are quite small, only 32 at a time) where the steel was exposed to oxygen at a temperature where some of the carbon in the surface of the steel was able to react with that oxygen and evaporate as CO2, leaving a soft skin. We estimate the effect is between .005-.010". So, the thickness of two or three hairs.

The issue is not just aesthetic. The surface is softer which means that it has a lower yield point. The effect being large impacts can cause the outer skin to take a set which causes the blade to take a set. Which is no bueno.


This is actually historically accurate. Ironically. But not something we want on our swords.


So we reground the flats and reground the primaries which removed most of it. And we scribed the edge .030" of an inch back using a surface plate and a carbide scriber so that we could set the edge back into unaffected material. That sounds like a lot, but that's what it takes because of math.

I chose to acid etch the fuller. This was a way of chemically removing some of the steel in an area that I was not able to regrind and it also makes it clear that we are looking at a salvage sword and not a standard K20.

My personal K20 is a rework like this. We ran it through its paces both before and after the rework. And lots of folks got a chance to cut with it at the Outlaw cut here at the compound last Autumn. The sword is 100% up to snuff and capable of anything you would want it to do.
 
Cap’n Smudge said:
cpirtle cpirtle

K20 | Picture Gallery

I've had my head down for a few weeks trying to get some work done, I should be posting everything to my web store later in the week. The work is all done, just drying and/or being assembled. Shiv sacks are done too. Here's a sneak peek of a few of the leather sheaths and Shiv Sacks... I'll...
www.bladeforums.com www.bladeforums.com

K20 | Picture Gallery

I've had my head down for a few weeks trying to get some work done, I should be posting everything to my web store later in the week. The work is all done, just drying and/or being assembled. Shiv sacks are done too. Here's a sneak peek of a few of the leather sheaths and Shiv Sacks... I'll...
www.bladeforums.com www.bladeforums.com
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Thanks! I had a couple at the show but they sold fairly quick.

More coming but aside from what is already being made from the preorder I offered last month I am in a holding pattern on them until I see what, if any, changes are made on the Gen 2/currently active preorder.
 
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