Ka-bar edge?

D

Deerinator

Joined
Feb 12, 2005
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Hey guys. I'm gonna convex the edge on my kabar usmc standard knife with no serrations and a 1095 blade. I was wondering what kind of equipment i'm going to need and the amount i will need to do this. I'm aware of the old mouse pad system. Also i was wondering what kind of things i should look for and do so i can get the convex edge. Also where i can get those high number grits of paper that i'm supposed to use like 2000? Thanks
 
I found Harbor Freight had Silicon Carbide grits from 120-1200.... NAPA autostore had those plus SC grits to 2500.... I'm sure other autostores do too. I used a sanding block I found at HF... it clamped the paper on either end, and had a base similar to a mouse pad. I used the 120 to create the initial burr on either side... then I went thru the rest of the grits 220-500-1000-1200-1500-2000-2500 just alternating strokes on each side, until I removed the lines from the previous grits. Didn't take much on the coarser grits 5-10 strokes... more on the finer grits 20-30. Only took me one sheet of each grit, and I could use them again.

I kept a fairly low angle... and just enough pressure to indent the pad. The edge came out really nice.

Hope this helps.
 
p.s. an alternative method.... I've also been able to put a nice convex edge on a blade using a 1x30 belt sander.... if you shop around you can snag one pretty cheap... I used a 600 grit belt, and polished it with a leather belt loaded with white polish.
 
Where does one even begin to look for a belt sander? When I google, I get the hand held belt sanders, which I presume is not what you are referring to because how could you hold the sander in one hand and the knife in the other and get a good edge?? And what ballpark price are you talking about - $50? $500? $1000?
 
Wow, how do you get the right angle? If the table tilts 45 degrees, then that means the most acute angle you could get is 22.5 degrees (as opposed to, say, the 15 degrees that alot of people do on the EdgePro). Does this get a better edge than the EdgePro, or is this more for creating a less sharp but more durable convex edge on a harder use knife?

THanks for the info.
 
There is no RPM adjust on the sander. (If your next question is heat buildup.... I've never had the blade get more than warm to the touch, but I do pause between sides).

Actually (AlonzoMosely) I don't use the table. The best way I found for me to use it is to lay it down, so the belt is flat and moving away from me... and then I sharpen freehand. I could keep a more consistent angle this way. I took the table off. I also tried it by removing the platen behind the belt... but that seemed a little too convex. So I put it back on and sharpen above it. And of course remember to sharpen with the belt moving away from the blade edge.

I'm not bragging, but the first knife I did, it put a shaving sharp edge on it. It surprised me how sharp it got in so little time. I just followed the same basic principles... obtain a burr, consistent angle, etc. And the edge seemed more durable than the EdgePro... I honestly haven't sharpened/tested enough to tell you which is sharper.... both seemed pretty close to me. I got the idea of laying the sander down from here http://www.geocities.com/stevebottorff/Salinas/field.htm although I haven't attached it to any type of base, or done the modifications he has.
 
Thanks guys that helped a bunch. In the field how do you touch up your convex edges? I was just wondering that. Or do you carry your sharpening kit in your pack?
 
also do you just need to create the burr on one side or do you need to make a burr for both sides. And do you use the other papers to constanly keep polishing the edge? Thanks again.
 
Deerinator said:
also do you just need to create the burr on one side or do you need to make a burr for both sides. And do you use the other papers to constanly keep polishing the edge? Thanks again.
Click to expand...
You create the burr on both sides... one side first... then flip it over and sharpen till you get a burr on the opposite side. I only did it on the coarse grit... the rest I just alternated back and forth.... removing the lines from the previous grit. I've touched it up a couple of times, just using the 2500. The handsander isn't that big... that and some paper could probably be carried into the field to touch up the edge. Someone else may have a better answer if weight/space was a premium.
 
Deerinator said:
Thanks guys that helped a bunch. In the field how do you touch up your convex edges? I was just wondering that. Or do you carry your sharpening kit in your pack?
Click to expand...

I'm pretty sure this would be bad for the motor.
But if you're just sharpening and not making knives, this shouldn't be a very big deal.
 
if you are talking about getting the cardboard wheeles then the recommended rpm is around 3200 to 3800. and yes you will have to worry about heat. if you are wanting a grinder to put new flat grind or hollow gring on i know Dozier makes and sells his grinders for like 4 grand :) but i did buy my grinder from harbor for 20 bucks
 
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