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Ka-bar Sharpening
- Thread starter Turtle2
- Start date
- Joined
- Dec 6, 2012
- Messages
- 5,521
Yup, KME!!
- Joined
- Dec 3, 2010
- Messages
- 1,875
Moose has some great write ups on the KME. If I was going to buy a system that one would probably be it. The worksharp also looks very interesting... but I am kind of old fashioned in my knife sharpening. All my stones were purchased form antique stores and are really old... if you want to go on the cheap and portable, the best bang for your buck is this...
Smiths 2 grit diamond stone, can be purchased just about anywhere that carries sporting goods/hunting stuff. It may not make the prettiest polished edges in the world but it will put a hair popping edge on whatever you want and fast. It is my go to portable sharpener. I have sharpened all sorts of knives, axes, tomahawks, machetes, Limb loppers, recurves, chisels, scrapers, nail clippers, and lots of KA-BARs on that SOB and I have had it for probably 5 years. Super cheap, pretty light, very portable. Then just wear a leather belt for a strop and you are set. Free hand sharpening is all about practice and technique, not what kind of stone you have. Albeit that some stones/systems make things easier.
Smiths 2 grit diamond stone, can be purchased just about anywhere that carries sporting goods/hunting stuff. It may not make the prettiest polished edges in the world but it will put a hair popping edge on whatever you want and fast. It is my go to portable sharpener. I have sharpened all sorts of knives, axes, tomahawks, machetes, Limb loppers, recurves, chisels, scrapers, nail clippers, and lots of KA-BARs on that SOB and I have had it for probably 5 years. Super cheap, pretty light, very portable. Then just wear a leather belt for a strop and you are set. Free hand sharpening is all about practice and technique, not what kind of stone you have. Albeit that some stones/systems make things easier.
- Joined
- Dec 3, 2010
- Messages
- 1,875
Kind of confused by your last post, punctuation and all, but if your asking what size of stone I am no expert... but typically a larger/longer stone is going to make your life easier when it comes to larger longer blades, and it will accommodate smaller blades just the same. Really in my opinion anything is really feasible. I have used that smaller Smiths stone on my BK9, a 14 machete, or a spey blade on a stockman with no issues... Just takes practice.
Also higher end stones start costing a lot of green... are they worth it? ask those who use them. All mine came second hand. If you are inexperienced in sharpening with stones, start out cheap and work your way up as your technique and experience builds. If this does not seem like something you want to do, look into getting you a KME, worksharp, edge pro, sharpmaker, etc etc etc. But freehand sharpening is a very rewarding, relaxing, and fun thing to do. In fact taking a knife from dull to sharp on just about anything is rewarding.
So quick answer...
If you have no experience with freehand stone sharpening, I say learning how to is a life long skill that is transferable. Just takes time. Find you a stone or 2.
If you have experience, look at flea markets, antique stores, or online for a good level stone. The maintenance and tinkering forum here probably has a lot of recommendations on specific types of stones.
If you want results now or with a limited yet rewarding learning curve... buy you one of the aforementioned sharpening systems like the KME. You'll get a mean edge that'll be great for your KA-BARs.
Good luck!
Also higher end stones start costing a lot of green... are they worth it? ask those who use them. All mine came second hand. If you are inexperienced in sharpening with stones, start out cheap and work your way up as your technique and experience builds. If this does not seem like something you want to do, look into getting you a KME, worksharp, edge pro, sharpmaker, etc etc etc. But freehand sharpening is a very rewarding, relaxing, and fun thing to do. In fact taking a knife from dull to sharp on just about anything is rewarding.
So quick answer...
If you have no experience with freehand stone sharpening, I say learning how to is a life long skill that is transferable. Just takes time. Find you a stone or 2.
If you have experience, look at flea markets, antique stores, or online for a good level stone. The maintenance and tinkering forum here probably has a lot of recommendations on specific types of stones.
If you want results now or with a limited yet rewarding learning curve... buy you one of the aforementioned sharpening systems like the KME. You'll get a mean edge that'll be great for your KA-BARs.
Good luck!
- Joined
- Dec 3, 2010
- Messages
- 1,875
Once again, best of luck to you.
Some good tips are always:
-Practice on something cheap before moving to something nicer.
-Mark the edge with a sharpie to see where your hitting on the stone. (this trick is everywhere)
-Practice practice practice. Just likes sports, or learning to play guitar, it all takes practice.
Good luck!:thumbup:
- Joined
- Dec 20, 2012
- Messages
- 2,734
My go to inexpensive, portable stone is not a sone at all but an EZE-LAP daimond sharpening rod.
It's about half the size of a ball point pen and is designed like one in the way it's shaped, contained and clips to a pocket.
It'll also get you a shaving sharp edge on that 1095 CV and if you follow that up with some strolling on the inside of a leather belt, it'll be hair poppin smooth.
If you've never sharpened before, I usuAlly try to follow the factory edge on my KA-BARs (20 degrees) without pressing to hard or adding any pressure to weight of the knife untill it takes off arm hair, then strop it untill it takes off coarse facial hair.
It's about half the size of a ball point pen and is designed like one in the way it's shaped, contained and clips to a pocket.
It'll also get you a shaving sharp edge on that 1095 CV and if you follow that up with some strolling on the inside of a leather belt, it'll be hair poppin smooth.
If you've never sharpened before, I usuAlly try to follow the factory edge on my KA-BARs (20 degrees) without pressing to hard or adding any pressure to weight of the knife untill it takes off arm hair, then strop it untill it takes off coarse facial hair.