Ka-bar usmc short as survival knife?

troutfisher13111

troutfisher13111

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How does the Ka-bar usmc short(5-1/2" blade) fare as a survival knife? Does it have full tang consruction? How well does stacked leather handles hold up? Thanks
 
Whatever the brand I'm not a big fan of that format: too big for a small knife (mora type), too small and neutral balanced for a chopper.

Particular to ka-bar:
* guard is more annoyment than useful feature
* construction, while technically not full tang is of similar strength
* while not optimal, particularly for carbon steel knife, stacked leather is OK.

I'd say I would rather choose a smaller blade or a larger one.
 
I agree with Ravaillac - not a terrible knife to take into the woods, but there are better options available. Basically, I'd feel ok with a short Ka-bar - it'll get the job done. But I personally would choose to spend my money on something else - either a bit more for a discounted Bark River or a lot less on a Mora.

If you really want a Ka-bar, I think this would be better suited for wilderness tasks: http://www.ruggedsportsman.com/catalog.php?id=53967

53967.jpg
 
I don't like the short, thick blades in that format. I used a Camillus USAF PSK for a few years and it was like a semi-sharpened prybar. Not optimal for anything really.

That Kabar heavy bowie reminds me too much of the Ontario Spec line of knives. I wouldn't be a bit surprised if Ontario is actually the manufacturer.

If you are looking for a medium sized blade that is an excellent cutter and don't want to spend a lot of money, consider some of the Scandinavian style of knives. Mora knives are popular, inexpensive and excellent cutters. My favorite wilderness blade is the Eriksson Mora 2000 (M2K), but I have taken up a small axe to handle the heavier work.

If you want a knife that will kind of do it all, get a blade that's 7in. or so. That way it can be used for lite chopping.

I would suggest adding a SAK or other multitool to your gear for the advantages they can give you.
 
I regret to opine that the K-BAR and its little brothers have had their day. Certainly, they're better than nothing, and probably better than some cheaper knives, but the design and materials are obsolescent. For general "survival" issues, I think you'd be better off with the Cold Steel Bushman, and it may be cheaper! The Bushman does need a better sheath, but this can be easily obtained from some of our brothers on this forum. It's simpler, stronger, makes a better spear, and has a hollow handle which can be stuffed with survival goodies, like fire-starting material, and cordage. It can then be capped with a crutch tip, available at most drug stores. It doesn't have a guard, but it's more likely to be used as a chopper than a thruster. As a spearpoint, the guard issue is irrelevant. And, as previously noted, the K-BAR's double guard just gets in the way, unless you're duelling.

My regret in submitting this opinion is because of the long, noble history of the K-BAR, or Marine Fighting Knife. But romance and nostalgia do not belong in an extreme wilderness situation.
 
I believe this is the knife you are talking about https://www.kabar.com/product_detai...goryId=1,2,3,7&categoryName=Military/Tactical , it has a 5 1/4" blade not a 5 1/2". I had one of these a few years ago and I have to admit I did not like it, The angle on the blade wasnt designed well for every day use. It was designed as a fighting knife, The leather was confortable enough until it got wet then it turned hard and caused lots of blisters unless I wore gloves. Once it got hard I had to oil the handle to make it useable again, the Idea of adding oil to the handle never really struck me as a good idea. I personally havent experianced this but I have also heard stories about the steel rusting under the leather. The large steel butt plate doesnt really make a good hammer like it does in the movies. As already stated Mora's will make a better wilderness knife at a fraction of the cost. I personally stand behind my CS Master Hunter ( there is a thread about that already) or even my CS SRK. Have you checked out this forums " knife maker for sale area"? There are some incredible users in there right now going for roughly the same as the KaBar.
 
ghostguy6 said:
It was designed as a fighting knife, The leather was confortable enough until it got wet then it turned hard and caused lots of blisters unless I wore gloves. Once it got hard I had to oil the handle to make it useable again, the Idea of adding oil to the handle never really struck me as a good idea
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They have versions with kraton handles now (in black and tan) which alleviate that problem, go with the marine versions (they might be sharper, Ive got a 1271 and its nowhere near as sharp as my original USMC one-- it could cut straight down the middle of thin flimsy college rule paper held at the top corner in mid-air, all i LITERALLY had to do was barely touch the edge and id have a cut; if couldnt see it, i sure felt it)
 
The K-BAR can indeed get amazingly sharp. The worst "sharpening cut" I ever got was from a K-BAR. If it wasn't for the blood, I wouldn't have known. It cut me quick and painlessly. Back then, I used oil in my sharpening. It was while I was wiping off the blade with a paper towel that I noticed blood soaking through the towel.

Easily sharpened, but consequently, the K-BAR Marine knives I've had (including the Camillus ones) had correspondingly less edge retention.

Edited to add--this may arguably be a good feature for wilderness use.
 
For the same price I'd recommend a Mora style knife, like this from Helle.

http://ragweedforge.com/fjelkniv.jpg

The blade is a little thicker than the cheaper Mora's and handles a little more hand filling. Either will get the job done, I use both frequently.

The Kabar was one of the first knives I was attracted to. I bought an Ontario Spec version of it. The knife itself turned out great, but what I ended up using knives for was a different thing than what the Kabar was designed for. It doesn't cut up cardboard well, nor does it make wood shavings easily. Too short to be a chopper. The biggest uses I see for it is a general beater type of tool - digging holes, rough scraping, self-defense etc.

I think a Puuko / Leukko combination with a small SAK that has two blades and a saw is an ideal combination. Substitute the Leukko for a different type of chopper if you prefer. The saw will give you a noiseless back-up to chopping that is less fatiguing. Large blade can handle food chores and small blade is decent are whittling, though a good stockman works better. Puuko for most general knife tasks and Leukko for breaking down wood for a fire, building shelters and cutting up larger animals.
 
longbow50 said:
If you are looking for a medium sized blade that is an excellent cutter and don't want to spend a lot of money, consider some of the Scandinavian style of knives. Mora knives are popular, inexpensive and excellent cutters. My favorite wilderness blade is the Eriksson Mora 2000 (M2K), but I have taken up a small axe to handle the heavier work.
Click to expand...

I second Longbow50's praise of the Mora 2000 -- I actually own this set from Ragnar and they're both great wilderness tools for $85 shipped!
 
MG_Saldivar said:
I second Longbow50's praise of the Mora 2000 -- I actually own this set from Ragnar and they're both great wilderness tools for $85 shipped!
Click to expand...

Nice little axe. I went with the SA Wetterling large hunters axe and to make a trio of it, added a lockblade SAK from Victorinox.
 
troutfisher13111 said:
How does the Ka-bar usmc short(5-1/2" blade) fare as a survival knife?
Click to expand...

Go either smaller or bigger, preferably both. I haven't used that particular knife, but I've used others like it.

Blades under 5" tend to be very handy for the most common tasks you'll run into in the boondocks. Unless way too thick (like the USAF pilot's knife, a design-by-committee I'm sure) they are generally capable of quite delicate work, as well as fairly tough duty. In this class I would rather err on the side of smaller, like a Mora, if size/weight are an issue.

Blades 9" or more chop and slash like crazy. It's a function of leverage, mostly. A tomahawk or hatchet will do much the same, for much the same reasons.

Blades in the 5-9" are too much of a compromise. They are far more clumsy than a small hunter or Mora-style knife. Ever try slicing veggies with a 7" Ka-Bar? It's kind of frustrating. The length of the blade and the cumbersome guard are simply in the way.

They also have virtually none of the power of a blade only a couple inches longer. Ever try to chop or split camp firewood with a Ka-Bar? It's extremely frustrating. The balance is behind the guard, which gives you about zero momentum when swinging the thing.

Personally, I like a 4 1/2" drop-point (could be a bit smaller) and either a 9 1/2" bowie (could be a bit longer) or a good heavy tomahawk when I'm camping. Don't try to make one tool do all things, it will only do most things poorly.
 
GibsonFan said:
Ever try slicing veggies with a 7" Ka-Bar? It's kind of frustrating. The length of the blade and the cumbersome guard are simply in the way.
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Actually, I have a Ka-Bar Next Generation that I use for everything from splitting firewood to skinning game and slicing vegetables. I think you are giving the short Ka-Bars too much disrespect. Try it! If you like it good for you. If you don't try something else. They aren't that expensive. So experiment.
 
I really like the concept of a small (10inch overall) heavy duty/survival/do-it-all knife, and that is just what a Short Kabar is! Although it has to be highly functional and that is what the Short Kabar isn’t. I want a full-flat grind, a minimal guard, drop-point and needs to have a ‘outdoor/utility’ look (NO fighter!!!). My advice is to take a look at the Ontario TAK and SRKW Howling Rat.

But carrying a Mora next to big chopper is the most usefull IMO.

Other good outdoor knifes i recomend are:
Camillus - Becker Knife and Tool line
Ontaio - RAT line
Ranger Knives - RD line
Fallkniven
Swamp Rat
Busse





Just my 0,02euro!
 
I've been an outdoorsman all of my life, and I just don't understand the need for a knife that can be a "chopper".

If I'm out in the sticks, and geared up for it, I generally have a hatchet or an axe. (Or a Chainsaw!:D )

If I'm not, I'm able to break off or pick up any lumber that may be needed for the task at hand.

I understand and appreciate the curiosity of an absolute earthshattering event, but why not just carry a quality small hatchet and a small blade for cutting?
 
farmboy said:
I've been an outdoorsman all of my life, and I just don't understand the need for a knife that can be a "chopper".

If I'm out in the sticks, and geared up for it, I generally have a hatchet or an axe. (Or a Chainsaw!:D )

If I'm not, I'm able to break off or pick up any lumber that may be needed for the task at hand.

I understand and appreciate the curiosity of an absolute earthshattering event, but why not just carry a quality small hatchet and a small blade for cutting?
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>it's arguably safer to use the contact method to split wood than an impact cutting tool. Shingle-makers certainly got along well with their tools for generations.

>you don't have to carry the hatchet, axe, or chainsaw for the minority of cases where it's necesary to split wood for a fire if you have a stout enough knife to baton. (Opinions differ on what is "enough.")

'Course, if this version of the KaBar has the sharpened swedge -- a top edge -- it's not especially suitable for batoning. Then there's that $#^@ top guard (as noted).
 
I've had one for years it's tough, I Snow Sealed the leather handle and have never had problems with the knife and it hasn't been treated that kindly over the years but I wouldn't choose it as my camping / survival companion. It does however make a decent hunter on a budget.
 
troutfisher13111 said:
How does the Ka-bar usmc short(5-1/2" blade) fare as a survival knife? Does it have full tang consruction? How well does stacked leather handles hold up? Thanks
Click to expand...
Do you intend it as a camp knife (stays in the camp while you pretend to be roughing it by bringing Dinty Moore from the truck and start a fire with a ferrocerium rod and waxed cotton balls ;)), or walk-around? For a dual purpose knife (walk-around and camp), I like 5" or so, but I would rather look at this one. I have it, and I love it. I don't see the need for a bigger knife for light chopping, and for heavier chopping, I would rather use an axe. Also, it is still possible to carry around with relative ease. Try that with a 9" blade.

For day hikes, I don't even carry a fixed blade in most environments, just my Endura.
 
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