KA-BARs, 1095 or D2?

Y

YoungCutter

Joined
Sep 17, 2001
Messages
1,218
Hey folks,

I was just looking at some things again and I noticed that a standard KA-BAR comes in an alloy called 1095, according to AG Russel's very informative site, this seems to be more or less a pretty mediocre steel alloy.

So the question is... is it SO mediocre that I should go ahead and save up the big big bucks for the D2 (which I know is fantastic) if/when I buy a KA-BAR? Please note, the KA-BAR would be used along the lines of a hard use survival/camping knife - it's not exactly suited to EDC yknow :)

So is 1095 good enough? or should I save up the extra and do it right with D2?

Also can anyone comment on whether or not the Eagle sheath is any good, and if you like it, please explain to me how it works.

Thanks,
 
Don't know about the sheath, but if the D2 on the Kabars is the same as used in their Extreme Folder series it is definetly worth the extra money. The D2 folder my son has was a bear to sharpen the first time but cuts and cuts. He used and abused it for 6 weeks and it only needed a quick touch up to shave hair again. Hope this helps some.
 
I saw the D2 Ka Bars, and was disappointed with them. They were pretty rough in finish for a knife of that expense. I've always been a fan on 1095 because its so easy to sharpen. You might wanna split the difference and go with something like a Seal 2000 from SOG for a hard use knife. Edge holding will be better, but not nearly as hard to sharpen as D2. The Eagle sheaths are like all Eagle products: quality gear carefully made. I'm not crazy about the sheath because it doesn't do much more than hold a knife (which is what its supposed to do, it just doesn't have that high speed/low drag quotient of Kydex), but they are well made. You might also wanna look into Kydex sheaths from Bladetech.
 
The 1095 Ka-Bar will do you fine! 1095 is not a medeocre steel at all. It takes a good edge and is easy to sharpen. If you have the extra money and want something better, go for the D2 Kabar. If not, order a 1095 ka-Bar with confidence. I have a Ka-Bar short in my collection and love it.
 
1095 is good steel, its easy to sharpen and many top makers offer knives done in it. Its not stainless. So uncoated it will rust and discolor if not cleaned after use when in contact with fruit juice or blood. D-2 is also not stainless. In addition it has to be heat treated just right. Its tricky, Bob Dozier knows how, but I am not sure everyone else does. If not heat treated just right you end up with a knife with a mediocre edge that holds it forever. 1095 is a basic steel. But many folks have the heat treat down pat for it to make hold an edge quite nicely for a long time. The only thing you get with D-2 over 1095 is edge retention for a longer time IMHO, and then a much harder time resharpening. You must keep it sharp all the way along, to avoid a big chore at the end. Say what you will about the super steels, what I like is 1095, Aus-8, 154CM, is they are a steel that holds a good edge but is easy to sharpen or reprofile and touchup.
 
Let's put things into perspective. 1095, a carbon steel, will outperform any stainless steel except for "stainlessness" of course. Mediocre compared to what?
 
1095 is my favorite steel. I have a Camillus Kbar that is 1095 and I have beat the crap out of it and it just keeps going. You can't go wrong for the price. I think of it as the Opinel of fixed blades. Cheap enough to destroy and not feel bad about it, but you would really have to go out of your way to destroy it.
 
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