Kabar Mark I tang?

[OzarkCreekWalker]

I'm not normally too much of a fixed blade person and i've never posted in this forum, but good lord, the Mark I with the leather handle calls to me. It fits all my criteria on my search for a fixed blade.
Is the tang on this knife similar to that of a usmc? I won't abuse it, i just would like to know how much it could take if i did. Damn, its a nice lookin knife.
Thanks

 

[Moosez45]

I'm not normally too much of a fixed blade person and i've never posted in this forum, but good lord, the Mark I with the leather handle calls to me. It fits all my criteria on my search for a fixed blade.
Is the tang on this knife similar to that of a usmc? I won't abuse it, i just would like to know how much it could take if i did. Damn, its a nice lookin knife.
Thanks

Its the same size as the full size KA-BAR F/U knife, and will take a whole lot of abuse long before its says adios. This something I do know quite a bit about. I have absolutely, and I repeat, absolutely abused my large F/U knives for years, and yes, I have broken them, but they served me well.

The shorter blade on the MK1 makes them tougher, simply because there is less length to utilize as a fulcom, which puts less pressure on the area of reduction at the guard, when you are getting aggressive with them. Same math applies to the lateral stress points as well, which is something I am about to start testing.

I believe that leather MK1 will serve you well as a great general purpose knife, and I'm willing to stake my reputation on it. If you get one and you don't like it, I'll take it off your hands for what you got in it, whole, or broken. Reciept necessary, though.

There are a few good posts here about them here, check them out.

And stick around, we got some good stuff going on, and its only gonna get better. Plus, I would like to hear your thoughts on the MK1 if you get it, with pictures of course.

Welcome to the KA-BAR forum, I'm glad you stopped in.

Moose

 

[hunter55]

Its the same size as the full size KA-BAR F/U knife, and will take a whole lot of abuse long before its says adios. This something I do know quite a bit about. I have absolutely, and I repeat, absolutely abused my large F/U knives for years, and yes, I have broken them, but they served me well.

The shorter blade on the MK1 makes them tougher, simply because there is less length to utilize as a fulcom, which puts less pressure on the area of reduction at the guard, when you are getting aggressive with them. Same math applies to the lateral stress points as well, which is something I am about to start testing.

I believe that leather MK1 will serve you well as a great general purpose knife, and I'm willing to stake my reputation on it. If you get one and you don't like it, I'll take it off your hands for what you got in it, whole, or broken. Reciept necessary, though.

There are a few good posts here about them here, check them out.

And stick around, we got some good stuff going on, and its only gonna get better. Plus, I would like to hear your thoughts on the MK1 if you get it, with pictures of course.

Welcome to the KA-BAR forum, I'm glad you stopped in.

Moose

Dear Moosez45,
I have read a lot of your writings and opinions about KaBar Mk1 (as far as the strength and utility are concerned). Some people have asked you about the "kabar tag broken affair" and somebody else asked your opinion between "Mk1 and CS SRK". I have read your answers. My opinion is that a Bushcraft knife (excellent as the Mk1) has to be strong and durable even for battoning. I am going to order one Mk1 (though the BK Tweener is coming). So, my question is: what about the comparison between Mk1 and the forthcoming BK-16 Drop Point Tweener (the shorter version of BK-2)??.
BK-2 is a tank. If BK-16 (Drop Point Tweener) is going to be similar to BK-2 (as far as the above mentioned characteristics are concerned) what is the reason to buy somebody the very awesome and very nice looking (but maybe fragile and not reliable for "ONE KNIVE IN THE BUSH" ) Mk1 ? Your reply will be highly appreciated.

Hunter55 (email address: stsog@otenet.gr)

 

[ocnLogan]

I can try to answer this one a bit, and then pose a question for moose/toooj as well.

First off, because the BK16 is un-released, there have yet to be comparisons between the two (at least public ones). The MK1 is also relatively new (and relatively less well known than say, the Short USMC).

The BK16 will likely be a very tough little knife, but it is also not nearly as thick as its larger brother. The MK1 and the BK16 should have the same blade thickness, but the MK1 will likely have the lead when it comes to "slicey" type things. The BK16 is a bit shorter, and a full width full length tang, so it will likely be a bit "tougher" for battoning and things like that. However, keep in mind the blade on that is just over 4in, so its not really a large knife at all, and will not excel at large knife tasks like the BK2. It should perform just fine, but the BK2 is effectively a wedge because it is so thick, and the BK16 will be thin in comparison.

Also, stick tangs don't mean "fragile either. Moose used one of his USMC's for three years splitting wood for his wood burning stove. He wore off ALL of the coating by use alone before the knife broke. Sure a BK2 or BK7 would have likely lasted longer, but stick tangs are plenty strong for most things, especially on smaller knives. The MK1 should be plenty strong, but if you are worried about it, then I would go with the Becker.

In the USMC, the Kraton version actually has a slightly thicker stick tang (.71in vs .59in or something like that), and I've been wondering if that is the case on the MK1 as well. If that is true and you're worried about strength, then I would buy that version.

But by all means, if you can go ahead and buy both of them, we would LOVE to see a comparison review between them .

Good luck .

 

[hunter55]

I can try to answer this one a bit, and then pose a question for moose/toooj as well.

First off, because the BK16 is un-released, there have yet to be comparisons between the two (at least public ones). The MK1 is also relatively new (and relatively less well known than say, the Short USMC).

The BK16 will likely be a very tough little knife, but it is also not nearly as thick as its larger brother. The MK1 and the BK16 should have the same blade thickness, but the MK1 will likely have the lead when it comes to "slicey" type things. The BK16 is a bit shorter, and a full width full length tang, so it will likely be a bit "tougher" for battoning and things like that. However, keep in mind the blade on that is just over 4in, so its not really a large knife at all, and will not excel at large knife tasks like the BK2. It should perform just fine, but the BK2 is effectively a wedge because it is so thick, and the BK16 will be thin in comparison.
Hi

Also, stick tangs don't mean "fragile either. Moose used one of his USMC's for three years splitting wood for his wood burning stove. He wore off ALL of the coating by use alone before the knife broke. Sure a BK2 or BK7 would have likely lasted longer, but stick tangs are plenty strong for most things, especially on smaller knives. The MK1 should be plenty strong, but if you are worried about it, then I would go with the Becker.

In the USMC, the Kraton version actually has a slightly thicker stick tang (.71in vs .59in or something like that), and I've been wondering if that is the case on the MK1 as well. If that is true and you're worried about strength, then I would buy that version.

But by all means, if you can go ahead and buy both of them, we would LOVE to see a comparison review between them .

Good luck .

Thanks for the reply.
I will buy the Mk1 (that with the leather handle - the great advantage is the "classic style" and "that´s a great historical reedition" as many www.bladeforums.com members pointed) and I will wait for the BK16.
Then we will have the chance to see the comparison results.
Also, I would like to see how the Mk1 is performing compared with SwampRat RatManDu and ScrapYard Dumpster Mutt.... (my favorites in the same [Mk1] dimension category, approximately).
Of course these are much more stronger. RatManDu according somebody in www.bladeforums.com (see: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...nife-of-all-time-and-why?highlight=battle+rat) is "just about perfect. No hot spots, a blade that is long enough for the big stuff, short enough for the small stuff, and stout enough that you couldn't break it if you tried. I will always own at least one". That is mine opinion also (as well as for the Dumster Mutt).
Maybe these knives have not the "classic feeling"....

 

[jim62]

Some salient points here to remember...

1) The Mora full rat tang knives have been used for many generations for bushraft use. They work for battoning wood. Cody Lundeen stakes his life on a little Mora in survival situtations and any stick tang Kabar currently made is built twice as heavy as any Mora.

2) Moose would be the first to admit that NO KNIFE is designed to baton firewood for three years. That is why God made Hatchets, Axes and splitting mauls.The way that knife held up under such use is why he still loves the USMC knives..

3) No knife is unbreakable- even a BK2 or a Busse, etc. Strength is all a matter of degrees and it is all a tradeoff with other aspects of the knife. Any knife that is heavy enough to be TRULY unbreakable is going to be too darn heavy to pack on your belt. If the knife is not carried , it does you no good. :jerkit:

4) As far as blade thickness goes, the Becker Bk7 and BK 9 are both "only" 3/16" thick and you never hear about folks breaking those blades..

4) With proper battoning technique it is hard to break most knives at the tang. Used properly, a Leather Handled Mark 1 is a superb wilderness knife.After all, that's what it was designed for.:thumbup:

 

[hunter55]

Some salient points here to remember...

1) The Mora full rat tang knives have been used for many generations for bushraft use. They work for battoning wood. Cody Lundeen stakes his life on a little Mora in survival situtations and any stick tang Kabar currently made is built twice as heavy as any Mora.

2) Moose would be the first to admit that NO KNIFE is designed to baton firewood for three years. That is why God made Hatchets, Axes and splitting mauls.The way that knife held up under such use is why he still loves the USMC knives..

3) No knife is unbreakable- even a BK2 or a Busse, etc. Strength is all a matter of degrees and it is all a tradeoff with other aspects of the knife. Any knife that is heavy enough to be TRULY unbreakable is going to be too darn heavy to pack on your belt. If the knife is not carried , it does you no good. :jerkit:

4) As far as blade thickness goes, the Becker Bk7 and BK 9 are both "only" 3/16" thick and you never hear about folks breaking those blades..

4) With proper battoning technique it is hard to break most knives at the tang. Used properly, a Leather Handled Mark 1 is a superb wilderness knife.After all, that's what it was designed for.:thumbup:

Good Points. I have to thank the author.
Only one point for discussion, as far as the #3 is concerned: I would like to remind that the superb and very very very tough SYKCO Scrapper 6 (SR-77, .268" thick; 6.25" blade; 11.44" oal) weights 12.7 ounces, while the also very very tough SwampRat RatManDu (SR-101, .189" thick; 5.3125" blade; 10.5" oal weights 10.0 ounces. Both knives are not too darn heavy to pack, while are absolutely survival knives. It also has to mentioned that these blades - according to many - are "by a wide margin" amongst "the best and toughest blades" in the field.
On the contrary, BK-2 weights 14.6 oz. (blade length: 5.25") and ESEE RC-5 weights 16 ounces!!!!, with no obvious advantages compared to Scrapper 6 and RatManDu (except the price in BK-2 case).

 

[jim62]

Respectfully, Your mention the Scrapper is a good one, And I agree they are both survival knives. And both of those blades can and will break if they are abused. They are not unbreakable no matter how many claims folks make to sell their knives.

Same 3/16" stock. 13 ounces with a 7" blade and MUCH more comfortable handles. Cheaper in price.

And, I have not seen ONE shred of proof from any independent ,unbiased ,scientific testing that would show that a KaBar made Becker BK-7 would be inferior in terms of strength to any other knife of comparable size and weight.

 

[hunter55]

Respectfully, Your mention the Scrapper is a good one, And I agree they are both survival knives. And both of those blades can and will break if they are abused. They are not unbreakable no matter how many claims folks make to sell their knives.

Same 3/16" stock. 13 ounces with a 7" blade and MUCH more comfortable handles. Cheaper in price.

And, I have not seen ONE shred of proof from any independent ,unbiased ,scientific testing that would show that a KaBar made Becker BK-7 would be inferior in terms of strength to any other knife of comparable size and weight.

Again, some good points. I have to thank the author!!

 

[jim62]

Hunter,

Actually the pleasure was all mine and I THANK YOU for hearing me out on my viewpoints.

The best of luck with whatever knife you Choose.