KaBar Sharpmaker

Joined
Sep 18, 2014
Messages
29
Hi Guys,
Looking to pick up a 1213 Kabar soon for camping and survival use. I'm wondering how well these big blades sharpen in a Sharpmaker, or do I need the old wetstone system?
Thanks
 
There's a good chance the edge angle on big blades like this will be somewhat wide or thick. If it is, you'll REALLY WANT something more aggressive to thin it, before finally tuning up the edge on the Sharpmaker. Kabar specs the edge angle at 20°/side, but that target is only ballpark (what they shoot for); if the factory edge angle is wider than 40° inclusive (20°/side), then you'll have to thin it anyway, to bring it within the working limits of the Sharpmaker. The ceramics of the SM would be very, very slow in doing that, as a lot of steel would have to come off such a thick, heavy blade. Something fairly coarse & aggressive, like a Norton Crystolon bench stone (silicon carbide) could make it much easier to thin the edge, after which the Sharpmaker would work much better in keeping it in shape.


David
 
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Wow thanks for the advice, kind of new to this stuff( as it shows!) I'm able to get a nice edge on my pocket folders which are Spydercos and Benchmades.
Thanks
 
I have a Lansky 4 Rod Ceramic Turn Box Knife Sharpener. It includes two 5" fine grit ceramic rods, & two medium grit alumina ceramic rods. I also have the Diamond\Ceramic set, the diamond stones are more aggressive when it comes to removing metal vs the medium alumina ceramic rods. With this system you can sharpen your knives at 20, or 25 degrees. With the Spyderco Sharpmaker you can sharpen your knives at 15, or 20 degrees.
 
David, what grit do you recommend? Medium, coarse? Thanks. Picked up my 1211 and it came with kind of a roughish utility edge from the factory which is pretty much standard I guess. Passed it through the Sharpmaker with medium rods and ceramic and I see your point as it looks like I'm touching the very edge ( apex?) only. Most of the edge remains jagged somewhat and I'd like it more mirror like. I can shave hair now but I'd like it better overall. Thanks.
 
The Norton Crystolon bench stone is coarse/fine. It is a two sided stone and should work good.
 
David, what grit do you recommend? Medium, coarse? Thanks. Picked up my 1211 and it came with kind of a roughish utility edge from the factory which is pretty much standard I guess. Passed it through the Sharpmaker with medium rods and ceramic and I see your point as it looks like I'm touching the very edge ( apex?) only. Most of the edge remains jagged somewhat and I'd like it more mirror like. I can shave hair now but I'd like it better overall. Thanks.

Which setting on the SM are you checking it against (the 'back bevel' @ 30°, or the 'edge' @ 40°)?

If it's only contacting the apex (cutting edge), it might be in better shape than assumed, with an edge angle that's within the working limits of the SM. If the rods of the SM were only contacting the shoulders of the edge bevels (at the junction of the bevel and the portion of the blade's grind above it), then the blade's geometry at the edge would be too wide (obtuse) and that would take more work to thin it out, so it'll fit within the working limits of the SM.

If the edge is still somewhat jagged, you could still likely use a medium or finer stone to clean that up, before continuing with the SM's rods. I wouldn't likely bother with a coarse stone, as it probably won't significantly change anything, over what you've already got in your factory edge. A coarse stone could still be useful if you'd prefer to re-bevel to a thinner (more acute) edge angle. Otherwise, you may not need it right now.


David
 
I'm at 40, the knife can slice thin strips of lightweight paper now, it seems the SM has achieved a nice edge, but not so great on the shoulders. Your tips help a bunch by the way and I'm listening a lot, this being my first year in this sort of thing! Thanks
 
I'd suggest getting the diamond stones for the sharpmaker. They work very well. I've sharpened my BK7 on it and it worked great.
 
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