Kanetsune/Damascus knife strength

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Jun 5, 2009
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15
I am in the market for new knife, and after much research I have decided on a Japanese made knife.

I am pretty much set on the A1 by Fallkniven but I was wondering how the more traditional Japanese damascus steel on a knife such as the Kanetsune would hold up to a knife such as the A1 for survival and general hiking/fishing/woodsman stuff.

The Kanetsune is about the only Damascus steel Japanese knife knife I've seen in my budget.

Thanks for your input
 
I can't speak to the Kanetsune as a user, I own several, but they are collectors not users.

I will speak highly of the Fallkniven A1 as a great all round camp knife. I used an A1 for a while before moving up to the A2. The only reason I went to the A2 is the little of extra length is handy when batoning because you can have a bit more tip length sticking out to hit with the baton when splitting larger logs.

The A1 is no less capable than the A2 and the smaller size makes it better suited as a carry knife.

Kevin
 
In over 50 years of backwoods activities, I have carried *many* knives, and never broken one in my normal routine. I don`t use knives for batoning wood, I carry a small Estwing hand axe and use it for it`s intended purpose. If you select the right tool for the job, I doubt that you`ll ever have a problem.
 
I've been ogiling Kanetune for a while now, but as more of a collection piece than a user.

My worry would be the handle-blade join as i believe they are not full tang, allthough i stand to be corrected on that.

I'd go Fallkniven as a user regarardless, its proven itself as one of, if not the best bushcraft knife available
 
Well, I'm looking for a knife to use, I don't care much for aesthetics if it's something my life may have to depend on someday. Is the edge of the A1 as brittle and chippable as some claim it to be? Or is that just in abnormal use?
 
As a general rule the harder the steel, the more likely it is to chip rather than bend or roll the edge.

VG10 and SGPS steels are both very hard. I have never chipped the edge on any of my Fallknivens. I use them for all types of tasks including batoning, but in fairness I only purchased my first one a little more than a year ago, so I can't claim years and years of chip free service..

So, yes, if you do something that would damage the edge of a knife, it will be more prone to chip rather than bend or roll the edge.

Not sure if you have ever viewed knifetest.com or not, it is more entertainment value than true factual proof of one knife outperforming another, but he takes an A1 through the paces. It started to chip when he was hacking through cement with it, but then it seemed to stop chipping and just kept on ticking.

Fun to watch if nothing else: http://www.knifetests.com/FallknivenA1.html

Kevin
 
I wouldn't say that Kanetsune is a "traditional Japanese damascus steel". It is a laminated knife with the outside layers composed of pattern-welded steel. This is mostly for cosmetics and is not "traditional" in the sense that it is not real wootz steel composed of hundreds to thousands of layers.

Depending on the model, Kanetsune knives typically uses Hitachi white or blue steel. These are exceptional steels used in quality tools, however they are very hard (HRC60-64) and may be brittle, so the outside damascus may be of help (similar to Fallkniven)

If you use it as designed, to cut and slice, it will serve you well, but it may chip if you use it to chop.
 
Yup, the outer layer is just for looks, commonly called suminagashi. You won't find anything japanese made from 'wootz" steel.

A "traditionally made" japanese knife would be made of stuff called tamahagane.......and very expencive:)
 
I love Kanetsune knives, I own 4 of their Kitchen line and 2 of their outdoor line. I could do a lengthy breakdown of what I like but in the end for a tough no nonsense outdoor knife I would steer you toward the Fallkniven or there are also several other Brands that I could recommend, send me an email and we could discuss this at length - hillbillenigma AT charter dot net
 
Well, it seems the Fallknivens are remarkable knives.
So does the Fallkniven A1 have stainless outer-laminations or is it another material, or are there certain A1s that are different than others in terms of blade material (not coating). Also do they all come with convex edges are or do some have different edges as well.
 
Outer lamination is stainless on all new Fallkniven A1's, 420J2 i believe. A few years back Fallkniven had a solid VG10 blade, but not sure if it was on the A1 or not.

Blades on the A1 are convexed only, but some Fallknivens come with a micro bevel at the edge, I don't recall if the A1 does or doesn't. Mines not handy at the moment to check. I always reprofile to a full convex first time I sharpen.

Also, some Fallknivens are not convexed, the new FH9 folder is a flat grind (scandi) style blade with micro beveled edge.

The coated blades are not for corrosion protection, more of a tacticool eliminate reflection so you don't reveal your position to the enemy sort of thing. Or just because some folks liked blacked out blades.

Kevin
 
is the 420J2 the satin finish model? Also, wouldn't solid vg10 be better since that's a supersteel?

Thanks
 
Not certain of all the reasons Fallkniven moved away from solid VG10 but I suspect cost is one factor.

There is a general concensus that the laminated blades are stronger because the 420J2 is a bit softer and more flexible. Therefore you get the advantage of the overall durability of a softer stainless steel for the majority of the blade mass, and the superior edge holding capabilty of a "super" steel core.

As far as getting you hands on a solid VG10 A1 you would have to find someone who is selling one. I'm not certain if the A1 was ever offered in solid VG10, I have only ever seen a photo of an F1 in solid VG10.

Kevin

EDIT: I did a little research on line and came accross a comment that only the F1 and H1 were ever offered in solid VG10, the same statement said the A1 has always been laminated VG10. I can't vouch for the accuracy of the information as it did not come directly from Fallkniven.

Also found a statement that the laminated VG10 blade is approx. 20% stronger than the solid VG10 blade.

Check out Fallknivens web site, they have a link to break tests performed at Solid Mechanic Laboratory of Lulea University. The reports may clear up any questions you have.

Kevin
 
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Well, I'm definitely sold on the A1. Thank you, Dag Nabit for helping to alleviate my indecision.
 
No problem.

I'm certain you will be pleased with the A1. Be sure to drop a few comments after you have a chance to use it a bit.

Kevin
 
Now it's just down to the Teflon coated one, or the satin finish...which do you think is better?

Also, which sheath is the better one?
 
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I'm not a fan of coated blades, but that is strictly preference, not based on any rational reason not to have a coated blade. Since the blade is stainless I don't see any advantage to the ceracoat except for looks. So it really comes down to preference rather than practical application IMO.

On the knifetest.com video he mentions that the coating wore off easily, so again not really practical, but if you like the "worn" look on the blade then that would be the way to go.

I have an F1 coated blade and it looks sharp when it is shiny and new (this ones a collector). But if this is going to be a use knife I suspect most, if not all the coating will soon be gone.

As for sheaths, again really personal preference. I prefer leather but mostly for looks rather than practicality. The Zytel sheaths seem pretty good also although I have heard a few comments that the "zytel spring tab" that secures the knife in the sheath when unsnapped can weaken and the knife can dislodge fairly easily. This has not happened with any of my Zytel sheaths yet, but the knives are not very old or seen much use yet. For all intents and purposes I think either sheath will prove functional and capable.

F1 Ceracoat Black Blade
FallknivenF1-Black-1.jpg


And a little teaser for you while you wait :D
FallknivenA1-4.jpg


Kevin
 
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