Kangaroo leather Strop ?

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Bryyan27

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Aug 20, 2015
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I've recently heard about Kangaroo leather glued to glass (for sure flatness) and an emulsion (cbn) that is 160,000 grit. Has anyone used this type of strop and the emulsion ?
Glad to be here on the forum !!
Peace
 
And we are glad to have you! I have never heard of this leather strop. I just go to Tandy leather factory and buy some scrap for $2. I make my own form there.
 
Check out the forum list, there is a place that is better for this type of question....AND welcome!
 
I have the Kangaroo leather strops from KME Sharpeners which are glued to Aluminum.
I use them with the 1 and 0.5 micron diamond paste from Wicked Edge and I love them. With just a few strokes they give the perfect finish.
With the Wicked Edge I use the standard leather and balsa strops but I like the Kangaroo better.
 
I bought thin kangaroo leather from Michael's craft store and glued it on a wooden cigar box. works great with diamond spray or rouge.

think I paid 2 bucks for the leather
 
Kangaroo leather has a slightly higher level of natural silicates than horsehide. But this is ONLY an asset if you are using the leather bare; ie, without compounds. Otherwise, so long as there is no 'give' to the leather surface ( in that the leather has been compressed into a very firm surface,) there is virtually no difference between kangaroo, cowhide, or horsehide. When used with compounds, it's the density (firm surface) of the substrate that is most important, not the animal (horse, cow, kangaroo, hamster,) or veg/mineral (wood, aluminum, glass, etc.) that is 'most' important.

And even when used 'bare' (without compounds,) the difference in the natural silicates only represents a matter of a 'few' less required strokes to produce a finished edge. Perhaps 15 for kangaroo, 16 or 17 strokes for horsehide, and 18-20 for cowhide. The leather isn't 'miracle stuff.'


Stitchawl
 
Woah Stitch, nice stuff! I have used German aluminum oxide polishing paste on newspaper. Wait till you try that folks, or use it dry, Murray Carter does. It really straightens a bent edge fast and burnishes it to. Unless of course you are using high vanidum super steels. You need CBN or diamond for that.
 
I've found that the quality of the whatever material is more important than the type of material. Also the thickness of the material is very important. I prefer a thin piece of material on a hard backing. I also prefer having a number of different sizes of strops for different tasks. If your going diamond or CBN its hard to beat nano cloth.
 
I made this two-sided paddle from strips of tail leather and a piece of scrap redwood, 250nm poly-diamond on one side 100nm poly-diamond on the other.

roopaddle.jpg


I "lapped" the leather flat after gluing it down. The 250nm side is very easy to use for knives and very effective. The 100nm side doesn't do much. There is an example of a blade stropped on this paddle here: https://scienceofsharp.wordpress.com/2015/01/13/what-is-a-burr-part-2/

The paddle is useless for straight razors though, it's too smooth and hard.
 
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